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rjames
I bought the type 1 modified CV's from PMB and want to make sure I put these together correctly and maybe this post will help someone else who goes this route.
I would contact Eric directly, but figured I'd open my questions up to everyone in hopes of getting answers quickly so I can get these installed.

The CV boot flange doesn't fit tight on the Type 1 CVs because of the outer area on the CV that is machined down, but that's not a big deal. Pic of the boot side and the outer area that's machined down:
Click to view attachment

Concern
These are shipped fully assembled (balls, cage etc.) but the inner-most part with the splines needs to be flipped because it is tapered. Others may not realize this since the part is advertised as being ready to install "You simply transfer your pins to these CV's and bolt them on." Someone please correct me if flipping it would cause an issue with the CV joint itself. Once I flipped it, I did notice the entire joint moved in all directions easier. idea.gif
Pick of the hub side (I installed the pins but haven't flipped the inner part on this one yet)
Click to view attachment

Question:
You'll notice in the above picture that there is no machined area to accept the CV gasket like on the stock 914 CV (pictured below).
Click to view attachment
My CVs weren't shipped with CV gaskets, but the new ones are advertised as containing them. I'm not sure they should be used since there is no recessed area to place them like on the stock 914 CVs.
Should I:
A) run a gasket, B) just use a little RTV, or C) just bolt them on?
I'm leaning towards (B).

This post is in no way to dis the product, I just want to make sure I'm installing it correctly as CVs are kind of important. biggrin.gif
jimkelly
i think you need to use a gasket only on the side that is machined for one. that would - i think - be the cv side.

jim

rjames
QUOTE(jimkelly @ Oct 16 2011, 03:42 PM) *

i think you need to use a gasket only on the side that is machined for one. that would - i think - be the cv side.

jim


On the type 1 CVs that I have there isn't a place machined for the standard CV gasket (see photo above)
fteixeira
I've heard that if the CV joint DOES NOT have the machined recess, then DO NOT use the 914 CV gaskets. Supposedly, the gasket material will compress over time and loosen the CV to flange connection. No real experience, just hearsay.

fteixeira
jimkelly
one of the 3 pics above definitely DOES has a machined side.

hang tight for eric's reply

jim
rjames
QUOTE(jimkelly @ Oct 16 2011, 04:21 PM) *

one of the 3 pics above definitely DOES has a machined side.

hang tight for eric's reply

jim


Yup, the 3rd pic is the original 914 CV that came out of the car.
rjames
The word from Eric is to use RTV in place of the gasket which makes sense.

Flipping the inner carrier is also necessary due to the way it tapers; The smaller id faces the hub.
Eric_Shea
added to the site:

Installation Note: These CV's are machined on the bottom side because there's not enough room with the VW gasket ring cut on the other side. The flat side has the most material for the safest and strongest fit. We don't supply paper gaskets anymore because they can compress under torque and then the fasteners back out with catastrophic results. Machining the gasket groove would make a fairly expensive item -- moreso. There's simply no need. Use RTV sealant in place of the paper gasket to solve that. Keep the RTV handy and place a bead around the base of the CV boot cover. Wipe off any extra for a clean installation.

Quality Note: We only use GKN/Loebro CV joints for our kits. These have been proven "not" to hyper extend like the cheaper Type 1 kits on the market. We still include 4 new Schnorr locking washers FREE with every kit.
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