Hello to all!
I am a nu b 2. Just got my first 914, and am excited about the work ahead. (not really the work as much as the result) Anyhow...
I immediately bought a nice dual weber setup and electronic ignition setup off ebay. Here's my problem, can't find directions or pictures for setting up linkage, throttle cable routing, and manual choke setup. I have the hex bar linkage but have never seen one installed.
I don't even know which way the carbs face... Helllllpppp!??

Hi and Welcome
I just got my 914 and it has dual webbers.
http://www.webercarburetors.com/
This site has detailed instructions on how to do the install and linkage. Look in Tech articles. I can take some pics of my setup if you need them. Good luck!

get the Thomlinson book on Webers.

covers all things VW and weber related including how to install and sync dual carbs.

great book accept for jetting, go with group wisdom on that.

have fun...

dr

Welcome to the club!!

Here are a couple of pictures that may help you out.

asdf

Post pics and stats on your car....also what kind of ignition did you get?

I have a very similar linkage as shown in the pictures,

I don't like the angle of the short linkage...I am thinking about fliping the ball socket up rather than down. This should make the linkage that moves the throttle plates more straight up and down..herb

74 w/ 1.8L fuel inj. all original 48000 miles, straight body, minimal rust.
bought dual 40's w/ crossbar linkage, crane xr3000, ps 91 coil, 050 distributor mated to module & coil.

Is this too much "stuff" for a stock engine. The carbs were on a 2.0/2.4 motor that was around 135 hp.

Your setup should work okay on your engine. Pull the jets and post what you have (mains, idles, air corr, emulsion tube) and also post the venturi size. Someone here will be able to give you a jet recommendation as good starting point.

For manuals, I recommend the Haynes Weber manual. It has good illustrations to help identify parts and a good tuning sequence.

someone has to say it, so i will:

the dual webers sure look nice but if you put them on a stock 1.8 you will *NOT* gain any horsepower what-so-ever.
you will, however gain a instant cold start problem and a worse gas-milage ...


if you want to put those carbs to good use, get a *hot* camshaft, otherwise they're wasted.
Andy

If the motor is internally stock, and the FI is working, why do you want to change it for carbs? The FI is a reliable system that will run well and start easy. The carbs will require fiddling around to get to work correctly, and they will make the engine hard to start when cold. Carbs are great for a motor that has been modified from stock, but the FI is better for the stock motor.


If you are really insistent on removing the FI, how much do you want for the whole setup?

Clay Perrine
74 1.8 (Betty's daily driver, and PCA P3 Auto-x national champ) (stilll running the stock L-Jet)
73 2.4 MFI /6 conversion (In process of reassembly)


"It's better to wear out than to rust out."

My intrest in changing the system is purely ignorance of how to fiddle with it. The car runs and starts, but it has started cutting out at 4000 rpm. similar to new car governor cut out? don't know if it is ignition or fuel, idiots solution: replace both. did basic tune up (points plugs wires cap button) car ran great for about 4 days then started this.

for starters place the linkage setup on the front(fan side) of the engine. this will make it easier to adjust the threaded rods when you get the carbs to flow evenly. do not plan on using the stock fuel pump for the fuel injection. i would recommend not using a facet pump. find a rotary pump regulated for the correct fuel pressure. cb offers a nice one. blow out the circuits, canned air works well. i hope that the venturis are the correct size for the application for the displacement of your engine. andy's carb thread was interesting, especially his venturi size. get thomlinson's book, again from cb performance.

kevin

If you would like some help troubleshooting this before you start ripping it off the car, let me know.

Start by checking fuel pressure. It should be 28 PSI with the vacuum line connected.
Then check the basics like valve adjustments, points and condenser, and (believe it or not) the oil cap seals. If the seals in the oil cap are torn or missing it will lean the mixture out and cause poor running.

Then check the vacuum lines and the black pleated rubber boot between the Air flow meter and the throttle body. If it is split or torn it needs replacing.

Let me know if you want more things to check.

Clay Perrine

after seeing your picture post... if it runs well leave the fi on the car. check all of the fuel lines. if they look deteriorated get the correctly sized high presure fuel line and the correct clamps.

kevin

It dawned on me that this did not start till changed the oil? checked cap an seal, tight. where's the fuel filter on this thing? WHere to test fuel pressure? almost seems like a timing problem. distributor had to be advanced so that vaccuum adv is touching cold start to get it cranking.

Get a timing light and set the timing to 7.5 degrees advanced with both vacuum lines on the distributor disconnected and plugged and the car idling at 1000 RPM.

The fuel filter is located by the fuel pump, below the RF engine shelf. Unless it's been moved to the front. Then it's probably under the gas tank.


Clay Perrine

74 914 1.8L (Betty's Daily Driver)
73 914 2.4L MFI Six (In process of reassembly)

"It is better to wear out than to rust out."

Cool... guys on another room are talking about the same problem and saying it is the tps... Where is that and how do you check it?