I hope someone can help me.
I would like to rubuild my type IV INTO A BIG FOUR. I am wondering if anyone who's done it has ...or know;s someone who has a complete engine specs sheet to share..
Any help is greatly appreciated.
kid914

How big is big, and how much do you want to spend.


If this is your first time with an engine build, I'd suggest doing a 2056 (or 1911 of your car is a 1.7 or 1.8). It keeps many of the stock parts, gives a nice bump to HP and torque.

Many of the pros here will tell you that you don't want to go with a bore size over 96mm if you keep the cast iron cylinders - and make more displacement through stroke.

If you want to stay with stock FI, you need to keep the cam mild - stock really. Carbs will allow for bigger cams and bigger compression (as will modern EFI).

And the cost to build a big 4 still is not super cheap. a 2056 will probably set you back about 3K if you can reuse some things. 1/2 of that cost is head work.

So, what do you want, and what is your budget?

Zach

How big, and what are you starting with for a motor?
Is this your first time to rebuild a motor?

What is your budget and what is your target HP?

Lastly...but it really should be first.
What is the intended purpose of the car?

Rich

I've got a 2056 in my 912E and I love it. The torque is inpressive , over 120 at the wheels from 2500 to 5000 RPM.The 912E is probably 500 to 600 lbs heavier than a 914 so the performance would be more impressive. Have Len Hoffman do the heads and get the kit from Jake!

My engine is stock,from what i can see. it was removed by the p.o. he had another engine in it to do autocross. But he told me it ran fine before it was removed.
Although it will be my daily driver in the summer, I plan on enjoying some spirited driving.... perhaps even try my luck at someautocross events.

I had about 3k as my budget, but willing to do some of the work.
Mind you i haven't done any real mechanics since high school.......20+yrs ago...but very much looking forward to it.

From the outside it could be a 73' 1.7L or a 74-76 1.8L judging from the sparkplug location and trans. Thats about it without a serial number from the block.

It was converted to carbs at some point so that could leave the inards open to all kinds of mods....

PS where in Canada?

Definitely looking like a 2.0L to me based off the spark plug location (low). You can confirm that by counting the studs for the intake manifolds, there'll be 3 studs on each side if it's a 2.0L. That's good because then you have nice cylinder heads and the correct crank/rods for a 2056.

Also looks like you have the good sideshift transmission that would come on a later car, 73 and up I think?

$3000? Build a 2056 by rebuilding all your stock components and installing 96mm pistons and cylinders. A nice carb cam will make a lot of great power.

Properly built you will have a great trouble-free motor and a car you STILL like to drive...

I'm building a 2056 from a 2L. Doing most of the work myself.

The cost for me is $1500 parts and machine work. I seriously considered to go to a 2.3L for about $1K more but decided to do that on the other engine I'm going to rebuild probably next year.

Where abouts in Canada are you in? If you are in BC I can try to help a bit.....

Thanks for all the help offer guys, but i'm in Ottawa.
And thanks for the tip ,i will look to match the serial # on the engine.....but i was told it is a 2.0 so i'll keep my fingers crossed.

btw Valy... where did you go to get parts and machining for 1500$....wow
I should take you shopping...!.

cip1.com has 20% off this month. - bearings (all), oil pump, gaskets, and much more
Pistons and cylinders - eBay $250
Cam - webcam #73 + 5deg on exhaust + lifters

machine work includes align boring, valve job, rods, oil galley tap, crank polish, heads flycut and cleaning everything - done by a local Type 4 guy.

So.. Where were you thinking of buying that cam? The grind was Raby developed. Some have tried to rip it off but they leave out one very specific characteristic that makes the difference.

But today its not the latest and greatest.. Development never rests and nothing ever stays the same..

The missing ingredient is the fun I have doing it myself

Now seriously, I would've buy it from you but I don't want the entire kit and you stated few weeks ago that you're disconcerting the cam kit program. I'm only buying from people who want to sell, period.

This is all very disconcerting.

Discontinuing

When I had the 2.0 engine in my 912E rebuilt about three or four years ago. I used NOS 94mm Euro P&C's, increased the compression to 8.0, installed a Web cam with a mild grind and kept the stock fuel injection, sent the injectors out to be rebuilt, I also added a Mallory distributor. I did the removal disassembly down to the long block and reinstall myself to save $$$. Total cost for the assembly of the long block with the above parts supplied by me was less than $1,800.00. Parts were around $1,100.00 including all of the while you are in there stuff like new German fuel lines from the bird board.

I think it was just the engine kit program that was discontinued.

You can still buy a cam kit, but you need to buy the whole kit.

I got my cam already and happy with it. Jake did post not long ago that he wants to discontinue the cam program since he has problems sourcing parts, probably because he has many items in his kit in addition to the cam.

I think Jake was just cynical about cam availability. After-all, you can buy custom cams from many vendors. But I'm happy to see that he likes my grind. It took me a lot of R&D to figure what I should use.

Camshafts remain in our store as complete kits only. I do not give purchasers the ability to misconfigure valve train arrangements through incompatible parts.

The DIY ENGINE KIT PROGRAM has been discontinued. That's all, nothing else.

That is good to know!

John

Quote Valy "But I'm happy to see that he likes my grind. It took me a lot of R&D to figure what I should use".

I'm confused. Are you saying you developed the web cam #73 amd Jake got it from you?

No, I'm saying that it took me a lot of R&D, including static and dynamic analysis to figure out the correct cam that I need. It so happened that webcam #73 was almost what I wanted but my math showed that 3% more duration on the exhaust will be very slightly better. That 3% is about 6deg but since webcam grinds the camshafts with 5deg granularity, this is what I ordered. By the way, I had to model the L-Jet flexible rubber boot between the AFM and throttle to accurately get those results.

I also said that I'm happy to see that Jake reached the same conclusion with his cam, as this only confirms my calculations.

Interesting.
Did you have your heads flowed?
Are you making certain assumptions as the baseline for the camshaft choice?

Rich

I modeled the ports. Turns out that in the fine tuning, the flow itself is not sufficient as it doesn't correctly account for the back-pressure. The 90deg immediately after the valve creates turbulence. I considered bigger valves, higher lift and longer duration. The lift may cause piston clearance issue. Bigger valves contains a $$$ factor (unless you're there anyway), weakens the head and doesn't scale well as the gases from one side of the valve travel even more than the ones on the other side. Longer duration was cheap for me as I needed a cam anyway and the longer time the gases exit help to average the head temperature over time but it increases the overlap and you get crappy idle since the FI is fulled into thinking there is no airflow (but I know how to handle that ). Too much overlap and the low RPM band will be hurt from the same reason + the AFM dumper jitters (also solvable but more work for me).

For reference only, with the D-Jet you can fix the idle but the low-mid RPM range will not be nice and don't know how to solve.

If you are using djet, use the 411 vw mps unit to start tuning....

Rich

I wonder what that very specific characteristic that may be . I found this in some other post today.
Click to view attachment
I guess that Jake was just fooling around, so please

Yep. It's not posted on that sheet. Keep thinking you have it figured out.