I am pulling my engine (maybe tomorrow) to convert from carbs to Fuel Injection.

I was bored out of my mind today at a on and on and on meeting, and my mind wandered to engine building.

While I have the engine out of the car, it would be nothing to get in, split the case, and drop in either a 78mm or 78.4mm crank. I already have 96mm pistons, so this would give me a 2258 or 2270.

Am I nuts? All I would need is a new seal kit, crank, main bearings and some time... Right?

Engine as it is right now:
A 2056 with
KB pistons
Raby 9530 cam and valve train kit (similar to Web 494)
ceramic lifters
cast iron cylinders (Stock 2.0 bored to 96mm)
1.7L heads bored to accept 2.0 cylinders.
45x37.5 valves
Single valve springs.
Cooling is stock.
Induction is going to be MSII
Spark is via Mallory Unilite and a big ass coil
Exhaust is SSI exchangers.
Intake will be the TB and runners from a 1.8 Ljet.

I know it may not be an ideal combo, but is there a glaring misconfiguration? My goal would be about 160hp and torque. Is that possible?

The engine has maybe 4000 miles on it since I finished the 2056 in 2009.

Do I need to put down the pipe? Or will this work?

Zach

Just to be clear, there is NOTHING wrong with my 2056.
Its a fun quick revving little motor. My last compression check showed about ~165PSI.
I just like building things, the motor is going to be out of the car, and I hear the sirens call....

Zach

V8.

You have another child on the way, you have a Jeep to build, you have Adams bus to buy and restore, you have never had the 914 on the road correctly



YES you are nuts

You will need H beam rods and to clearence the case.I think I read somewhere that Jake said stock rods were only good up to76mm crank.You could just build a 2200 and keep the stock rods.The description on the 9530 says its only good up to 2.2 L.with the components you have you could build a 2200 otherwise you would need a cam and rods to go any bigger without being misconfigured.I don' t know squat but from studying these forums thats the stuff that I remember.

I'm not buying Adam's bus.

Even though I want to.

It would rust to nothing before I got around to welding up the rust he cut out already.

Zach

You WILL buy Adams bus

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl9bvuAV-Ao

STOP.

Put down the pipe.

Buy the bus.

Bus.

Get it restored. Then you can drive somewhere secluded, stare at a night sky and ponder building a bigger engine for your 914. Buses are great for that kind of reflection. I was in a '67 bus when I came up with the idea to strip two 914's to their bare tubs and simultaneously restore them using all NOS parts.



maybe the 2270.

If I buy the bus my wife will murder me.
And then she will be stuck raising our kids alone.
And you all don't want to see that happen, do you?









(please don't want me murdered)

No, don't do it.
Dream about what you will do to the jeep.

That would mean Mike and I would split your part of the racecar

You would also need to swap out you pistons for stroked pistons, get new rings, reset the deck height, etc...

Again, V8.

With a bus wrapped around it.

I also don't want to feel left out, so how much to buy into you guy's racecar that doesn't race?

I'll trade you the bus for the race car.

Zach

You should do that ...........I'm not fixing the bus Zach

pls define >> murder << for us.

cause i am sure she is fully aware that she can inflict far more pain and suffering by letting you live : )

1- jeep - fix and sell.

2- 914 - sell 96mm P&Cs (take wife out to dinner and a movie) - and get 914 reliable.

3- buy van - buy some pot - get a nice 8 track player - and conceive hippy baby : )

4- then sell van - to buy diapers

lastly - what compression ratio is 165psi and what octane do you need in that thing?

jim

Honestly, aside from always wanting one, this video is one of the reasons why I bought the bus...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKBww29qvSg



OK, ok.....back on topic. Thread is yours, Zach.

Okay. Back on topic.
I'll keep the 2056 since it looks like a lot of reconfiguration would have to happen to inccrease stroke. It's not as simple as adding a new crank and bearings.

I need to fix the jeep. When the jeep is done I'll be able to camp in it. Plus it has a v8 and 38 inch tires. If the bus came up when either the 914 or Jeep was done id probably have brought it home after Scott's party. But now is not the right time.

Probably like kids , is there ever a right time ?????

Jack

Forget the bus, buy a mercedes station wagon and drop a AMG 550 engine in it. Make your self a family wagon that screams

Sleep in a hotel and let somebody else change the sheets.

Zach that's more valve than the engine needs/wants. And more than the 1.7 intake ports can handle without serious port work with welding. Plus the big intake valves are heavy and with single springs will reduce your redline RPM a few hundred RPM's.

With the 1.8 F.I. runners and single TB 1.7 heads would be perfect, but more suitable valve sizes would be 40 x 34, 42 x 36 at the absolute largest (if it were mine I would use 40 x 34). It would make for a snappier engine at lower revs, would wind up to a higher redline, cruise better and get better mileage.

Not that my opinion means much after Len has weighed in... But if I were going to throw more money at that motor, I would lose those heads. The valves are still too big for a 2270 and yes you would need new pistons, rods, and probably a reduced base circle cam to accommodate a 78 crank. Basically you are starting over.

I would typically reserve those expensive ceramic lifters for a more aggressive high rpm set up where reduced valve train mass is most beneficial
494 cam is fairly tame

....Yeah, try to enjoy what you have?...don't want your children to be fatherless ...direct that passion in another direction

Noob question:
Is port size different then valve size?
Looking at the discription that I have from the guy I bought the engine from it said the ports were 45x37.5 not the valves. I transcribed it wrong.

Obviously I am not the one that had the head work done inthe first place.

Another question. Would larger valves cause warmer head temps? My head temps have always been on the warm end of acceptable.

Zach make it what ever size you want just as long as it makes it to Hershey next year and not the fit

Yes, port size and valve size are different or they could be the same, depends on who does what to the heads.
I only had a 1.7 head within reach but the intake valves are 39mm and the intake ports are approx 34mm.

A major problem with port and/or valve size being too big is your intake velocity drops and you get poor cylinder filling. Typically performance at the lower end of the RPM range suffers most.

Don't know about head temps vs valve/port size.
High heads temps are usually due to lean mixture and/or too much timing advance.

Unless you have a problem you need to fix I would leave the engine assembled.

If it ain't broke ....

Jim

The lifters were there when I bought the engine.

Zach

I'm horrible at that.


Zach