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Full Version: Parking brake is toast.
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ammason
Hey all - The parking brake in my 75 is toast. The hole in the chassis where the big pivot sits has been mashed to hell and the folded metal body is all bent. Is there a popular replacement for this? An easy bolt-in? I don't mind relocating the lever to the center console area or mounting a twist/pull under the dash and just running a cable to a bracket and connecting it to the old cable... This is *not* a concourse contender smile.gif, so any solution is up for consideration.

Thanks in advance!
914werke
confused24.gif
thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif
Not sure about your descriptions, blink.gif
it the handle pivot gone ? Or is the firewall where the cable tubes enter the cabin
rotted out?
There is a reproduction l replacement for the pivot stand?
jcambo7
I have seen fire extuingeshers under the tire or a rock used before. Rocks are good because they are free. poke.gif drunk.gif
turnaround89
I did a custom one from lokar, and it works really well. I also was able to move it to the center of the car which i like more than the stock location
davidj
QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Oct 23 2011, 11:16 PM) *

I did a custom one from lokar, and it works really well. I also was able to move it to the center of the car which i like more than the stock location


Where are the pics? confused24.gif
ammason
The handle pivot is gone/bent to hell. I'd snap photos, but I'm kind of looking for a total replacement.

Lokar seems like they might have a good solution. I like the idea of putting the moving parts in the center longitudinal. Are there any issues with relocating the cables to the middle of the firewall? It sounds like I could just cut a little hole where the fuel lines come through and add a mounting bracket for new cables. Or can I use the stock cables? Thanks!
turnaround89
I don't have any picture yet, but ill be out in the garage tomorrow and will snap a couple pictures. I had to use some square steel to make a mount and raise it up about 3 inches for everything to work the way i wanted it to. You could mount it straight to the center tunnel but there is already a lot in the tunnel that i didn't want to work around. I drilled two holes through the firewall for the cables to go through and then ran the cables over the engine mount bar. If you buy the lokar kit, make sure to purchase the rear wilwood clevis kit as well or else it won't work with the rear calipers on the 914. The only modification besides the mount for the brake handle, was cutting the little end off the cable where it attaches to the clevis. The cable has a ball on the end of it with an extra piece of metal on the end. This straight piece of metal needs to be cut off in order to fit in between the caliper arm and clevis. The little extra piece of metal can be seen in the picture below. Cutting that piece off does not affect the performance of the e brake. I was worried the cables would fall out or come undone, but they did not and everything worked out really well.

I have no idea if you could use the stock cables, you might actually be able to do that but the cables that come with the kit work just fine for me. The holes i drilled were straight behind the e brake mount, just above the center tunnel and the fuel lines. My lines are not run through the center tunnel, but above the center tunnel inside the car.

here is a picture
IPB Image
moparrob
I used a 993 handle and am in the process of modifying the console to fit in a 914.

These are my tentative mock up pics:

IPB Image

IPB Image

The hardest part is making new cables.

Another member had the same idea and actually did a better job of mounting his. He also was able to use two of the stock passenger side brake cables (equal length) as opposed to one shot and one long.

I can't remember his name though...

Jeff Hail
QUOTE(moparrob @ Oct 25 2011, 12:18 AM) *

I used a 993 handle and am in the process of modifying the console to fit in a 914.

These are my tentative mock up pics:

IPB Image

IPB Image

The hardest part is making new cables.

Another member had the same idea and actually did a better job of mounting his. He also was able to use two of the stock passenger side brake cables (equal length) as opposed to one shot and one long.

I can't remember his name though...


Jeff Hail biggrin.gif
Rand
That's what I'm going to do. Steal the long cable from my parts car and mount a lever in the center. I like center location better, it will fit better with my Momo seats, and I'll box in the area of the long where the indentation is so I never have to worry about the cracking that happens there.
bperry
Restoration Design:
http://www.restoration-design.com/Merchant...tegory_Code=914

I had to fix this on mine as well.
There is actually a bracket that is welded to the chassis.
The pivot tore the metal on the bracket on one side of the pivot.
While it looked pretty messed up, it was repairable and there
was no damage to the actual chassis.
I ended up removing the spot welds to remove the bracket,
re-welded the pivot from the back and then welded the bracket back in the car.

Its a pretty easy job.

--- bill
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