Okay I was pulling my interior to install my new dash & backpad. Down by my seat hinge I see some rust around the hinge mount. It was between the sound deadening factory stuff & the mount. It started around the mount & worked it's way across. I had one tiny hole through & some spots if it hadn't been seen would have gone through. Another gift from my car sitting outside at the wrench who screwed me a while back. He just keeps giving & giving .

So I scraped all the sound deadening off on the rear drivers side pan. I treated it with some rust stuff I have. Tonight I scraped off most the front sound deadening. It was great with the exception of a little more around the pedal. I can tell it is just surface rust but it is coming out. I plan to use bedliner to redo the floor. Then I am going to paint it L80E to match my car.

Here are a few pics to check out of the area mostly scraped up. I haven't started on the passenger side but if it has the same issue I will get some before pics.

What have you used to replace the sound deadening

you can use the dynomat stuff or similar product or you can by same tar you just took out from AA.
Or you can just leave it the way it is. I did and it doesn't seem to make much of a difference, especially with an engine right behind your head.

I've used and plan to use truck bed liner.....brushes or rolls on, real quick and easy......I bet if you start chipping that sound deadening material out you will find more rust check around your pedals, floor to rear fire wall seam. And seat mounts to floor

I used the reproduction tar mats that George offers on mine.
I had painted the car & floors prior so I left them (the pads) unpainted
I could paint them to match ..?
The nice thing about them was they are the same as OE material & already cut to the correct size & shape.

Yeah I have a little bit of surface rust by my pedal too. All the old sound deadening is coming out. I've got a buyer ready to go so I will dbl check with him. Maybe I will just get it prepped & he can put the stock matting in if he prefer's that. I like the bedliner as it will go below the pedal cluster too. As far as painting it after. I fI wasn't selling it I probably wouldn't bother. That black bedliner will look nice. Since 95% of the floor is covered anyway it isn't critical. Still it would definately scream not stock. As opposed to painted it most likely wouldn't even get noticed. I'll update with more pictures as I go through

Sound deadening ...

There's tons of products available, including replacement tar mats that look almost identical to the stock tar.

I hate bed-liner inside a passenger car!
To me that screams redneck hack-job, sorry guys ...

And it doesn't really deaden sound... it just makes it duller.

Who has the replacement tar mats? I didn't see them on Pelican.

Please tell me doubleA isn't the only place to get the tar mat. Anyplace else you have gotten it?

Are you seeking a replacement that appears to be stock?
At the end of the day, its layers tar paper or roll roofing...
HD has both.

We use a similar product on the 356 cars....its just layered tar paper, glued together...and the final top piece gets put through a roller that has the exact same markings as the original.
That is really the only difference...

AA has taken the time and money to have this product made....so yes, he is the sole source provider of the stock reproduction floor mat products.

I would suggest that you strip and epoxy paint the floors, (por 15 type stuff) and then paint with normal paint afterwards.
Then put on whatever you want.

There are some spray on products out there , Lizard Skin is one, that have ceramic balls as part of the paint...so it has not only a texture, but a concentrated level of "dead air" by having the little ceramic hollow marbles in the mix....they are tiny and feel like sand.

Look around on some of the stereo and audio sites for reviews....seems like good stuff.
The idea with that stuff is spray it on both sides of the floors in a clear mix or black...then paint over it with the proper color.

If you are seeking maximum sound deadening, you need to do some research into what works, and how it works.
Sound is wavelengths...certain materials (aluminum and rubber) block certain frequencies (ala dynomat) and then when you add lizard skin as an additional layer, you block even more frequencies.
You need multiple materials to do the job properly...block the frequencies of the noise, and thicken up the panel to block the vibration that transfers noise as well.

The rear window is the weak spot for sound in our cars...
There was a guy a long time ago that did a double window setup on the back window...not sure if it helped.


Rich

Any bed-liner, including "Lizard Skin" is nearly impossible to keep clean and will always look dirty.

With a smooth surface, at least you have the option of cleaning it ...

Do you seriously get in and remove your floor mat tar boards and clean the floor?

Rich

As a matter of fact, yes, i do clean the floor ON TOP of the tar mats ...

I'm going to test some bedliner product tonight on a piece of old firewall. Once it dries I will paint it & see what I think.

If I like it? I am going to use the bedliner from the ledge down to the floor. I like bedliner for sealing up the floor. The tar mat may be a better sound deadening product. I may even use the tar mat on top of that afterword. In which case I may just order the 2 front pieces of the stock stuff. Just kind of in a hurry to finish the floor. Getting something shipped in a timely manner can be a problem.

By far the quickest way would be to just clean the floor and paint it (Properly i might add) and then lay down some dynamat or similar product and put the carpet over that. You can use some double sided tape to fix the dynamat either to the floor or even just to the backside of the carpet.

Quick and effective and it doesn't leave the new owner with the crappy redneck bedliner surface that he'll never be able to clean.

JC Whitney sells sound deadener. Some of their stuff is decent, and no different than what you will pay good money for at a "real" parts vendor.

Andy I get it. Your not a fan of bedliner in a car. I do appreciate your input .
Until I test it & it meets my expectations it will never get into the car. I did mention once the bedliner is in place. It will be painted L80E same as my car. Therefore it should be able to clean up just fine . I really don't know yet. Yeah I am leaning towards the bedliner. That can change real quick once I test it out. I won't know until I actually see it. Which probably isn't going to happen until tommorow night. Which also means I won't get to paint the test until the weekend.

The floor may just end up painted (yes properly). Then maybe some dynomat to help quite things up. I may snag some tar mat at Home depot to play with too. You guys have given me good advice & options. I will keep you all posted on what I do. Once my back recovers from all this scraping. I am using a Harbor freight multi tool with a scraper on it. IT does work great but man are my arms & back sore from just an hour at it last night. This getting old stuff sucks

Heating the tar with a torch as you go makes a WORLD of difference. (Don't know if you were doing that already, but just thought I'd mention it. Makes the scraper slide like butta.)

Ditto. HF milti tool cuts the old tar off in 30 minutes per side with no effort and right down to the metal. I kept a file handy and 'sharpened' the blade every 5 minutes to keep it cutting like new.

Lowes sells Air Conditioning rubber tape with a foil back. Super cheap compared to Dynomat. I applied 2 layers on the firewall and entire cabin floor, and it's quiter than the original soundproofing. Tape is about 3"wide on a toll like duct tape.

POR 15 is great stuff. I painted the whole interior with all 3 steps of the process Then I bought the Second skin product from these guys Second Skin

Hey I just looked under my driver seat... is this a problem? (it looked a lot better with the factory tar in place)

That looks pretty bad ...

Also check the edge where the floor meets the longs and rear firewall. See if you can poke through.

The car is actually in Sean Molloy's shop for a rust-oration and some other work. This was the worst spot and I expect that we'll have to section in that part of the floor pan. The rear trunk should be the only other spot that needs new metal. All of this happened in the last three years while the car was outside under a cover. I believe that the carpet was what made this so bad, if the floor had been bare they would have dried much faster. So my advice is that if you have a leak and you can't fix it quickly during the rainy season, pull your carpets. You'll be ahead of the game later.

I've got a big pile of seals (thanks Mikey914) that will be installed when the car comes home.

There are natural harmonics of the 914
and then there is structural borne sound propagating through sections of the
body. The floor pan sheet steel is a natural speaker over a frame that
happens to be upside-down.
To disrupt structure borne sound, a simple pad of non-conducting material
is all that is required.
I used seam sealer around where the longs meet the floor and made my
own seal between the master cylinder and the forward wall allowing only the
shaft to protude, to eliminate as much water intrusion as I can.
On the floor, I am using 1/4 inch Solid Rubber sheeting so I can keep the
floor clean and eliminate scratching of the surfaces. It also eliminates the
transmission of sound from the floor pan surface. It is one piece and is cut
to the shape of the floor, from long to center hump, and from cross bar to
forward wall.
The rubber sheeting is dense and has weight and doesn't require adhesives.
It also doesn't lift or move in use, but can easily be removed when cleaning.
I live in Florida, I hate sand and leaves, and I am constantly cleaning the floors.

Interesting idea. Where did you get the material?

Any rubber distributor...in my area that would be Reller Rubber
in your area, try www.intlbeltandrubber.com
or Seattle Rubber Sheet

Okay I am almost there cleaning up the floor. I also tested the bedliner on a spare rocker that had issues. I will not be using the bedliner (yes I know Andy you are right )

I was hoping for something a little smoother. I really don't like the texture of it. I think I am just going to get it all cleaned up. Then Prime & paint it. I'm leaning more towards a sound deadener that will come out easy like the floor mats. I kind of like the idea of rubber sheeting cut to fit.

Spent a little more time last night. Got the passenger side all cleaned up. Did a quick coat of primer just to protect the metal. I also picked up another type of bedliner I am testing out. Looks much smoother than the last one. I'll see how it looks tonight. If it is smooth & the paint bonds well to it. I will use it some. I'm not holding my breath after the last product though.

The primer wasn't dry obviously. Also it is far from done. The front passenger pan is about ready to shoot. I've got a just a little more glue to get off by the foot pad. I've got to tape everything off so I don't get overspray on my car. I also noticed the rear window really didn't seal that great. I am going to pull it & order some butyl tape to reinstall.

The only way to varify good metal is strip is off tar. I use heat gun ....then paint with Bejamin Moore Iron clad then tar from AA then body color. A pain but comes close to original. Why B Moore ..because John Paterek porsche specialst would not comment on por15 and the only way to coat it with color is while still tacky or it won't bond. He also suggested Rustoleum damp proof primer ..You will not find it at ACE Hwd

One difficuly...Installing new tar ( which paterek does not recommend) I tried heat gun to mold it to depressions in floor pan...Had to work it in but not fun ..Anybody have idea for this...Have done two and ready to do another car right now. Car would probably go faster without weight and as someone said car is hardly quiet
Thanks
Terry