bandjoey
Oct 27 2011, 04:36 PM
I'm getting ready to install Mikey's new rubber seals in the engine compartment. Getting the old hardened ones out took cutting and chiseling. Ug.
What's the preferred method to install the new seals into the channels?
Oil it all up and slide it in? Align it and squish it in inch by inch? Other ways?
Thanks.
Katmanken
Oct 27 2011, 05:05 PM
If you slide, use lots of lube.
I put the bottom of the rubber in the bottom of the retaining bracket, and carefully used a screwdriver to work the top in.
Other methods may vary....
dlee6204
Oct 27 2011, 05:10 PM
QUOTE
I put the bottom of the rubber in the bottom of the retaining bracket, and carefully used a screwdriver to work the top in.
I used this method and it worked fine. I tried sliding it in but was unsuccessful.
SirAndy
Oct 27 2011, 05:29 PM
QUOTE(dlee6204 @ Oct 27 2011, 04:10 PM)

QUOTE
I put the bottom of the rubber in the bottom of the retaining bracket, and carefully used a screwdriver to work the top in.
I used this method and it worked fine. I tried sliding it in but was unsuccessful.
It helps to use a dull screwdriver so you don't poke holes in your nice new seals ...
VaccaRabite
Oct 27 2011, 05:31 PM

it goes pretty quick.
Zach
Mikey914
Oct 27 2011, 08:25 PM
I used the big screwdriver method, but I guess you could slide.
Maybe use wd40?
sean_v8_914
Oct 27 2011, 08:30 PM
DO NOT SLIDE IT IN!
the stretch will turn to shrinkage over time and it will become too short
I have a fat flat screw driver. I rounded the edges. lube it with soapy water. if your shelf is super sexy clean painted goodness, mask the lip to protect in the event of a slip
rwilner
Oct 27 2011, 09:44 PM
I just did this and used the push / slide method, there was no stretching.
I lubricated it with simple green and they slid right in
My engine was out of the car though.
bandjoey
Oct 27 2011, 11:03 PM
Thanks. I'll try the top to bottom method first. A handy tool comes to mind. HF sells a bag of 3 plastic door panel tools that won't cut into the rubber. Let u know.
914_teener
Oct 28 2011, 10:41 AM
QUOTE(bandjoey @ Oct 27 2011, 10:03 PM)

Thanks. I'll try the top to bottom method first. A handy tool comes to mind. HF sells a bag of 3 plastic door panel tools that won't cut into the rubber. Let u know.
I used electricians conduit lube I had lying around and pushed them it. No problems no "shrinkage"

You have to bend out the end tab on the sheet metal rail though.
I think the screw driver method probably ok too....Mark would know. I did it that way because my engine was in.
Make sure you have em in the right way...you can put them in upside down.
TheCabinetmaker
Oct 28 2011, 10:59 AM
I first tried to slide mine in with wd40. Nope. Then tried to work it in with my fingers and screwdriver. Worked, but was very slow and poked holes in the ends of my fingers. Finally squirted some Clevite red engine assy lube on it and it slipped right in.
r_towle
Oct 28 2011, 06:51 PM
Screw driver....simplest way
Eric_Shea
Oct 28 2011, 07:08 PM
I used a wooden pick:

Here's the back piece:

Cutting for the corners... these should have been left a tad longer:


Rear seal in place:

Here you can see where it could have been left a tad longer but, the engine tin will be here:

I mirrored the factory 45 degree corners on the edge of a grinding wheel:

Front seal in:

Basically done. Rob Sime was nice enough to loan me his hog-ring pliers to put the hog-rings back in the corners:

This is the easiest job I've "ever" put off for a long period of time!

Marks seals are spot on!
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