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raw1298
I am digging in and removing the heat exchangers and was wondering if there are any tricks or things to watch for? I don't want to damage the heads in the process. confused24.gif
AZ914
Use a bunch of penetrating oil on the head studs. You really don't want those to break.
Some people say to use heat but I haven't done that personally.
rjames
Be prepared for a stripped exhaust stud or two, either upon removal or reinstallation.
Make sure you have new gaskets and the correct nuts when it comes time to re install. Pelican has them.
raw1298
I am going to use penetrating oil. The engine was a fresh rebuild in the parts car when I bought it. I am hoping they were replaced with new studs and nuts in the process. Should I support the rear of the exchanger when I start to loosen the nuts on the head?
tradisrad
anneal the new gaskets before using them. don't let the weight of the muffler and HE hang off of the studs.
raw1298
QUOTE(tradisrad @ Oct 30 2011, 09:19 AM) *

anneal the new gaskets before using them. don't let the weight of the muffler and HE hang off of the studs.

Anneal? confused24.gif Redneck from Kansas, please define?
dlee6204
QUOTE
Anneal? Redneck from Kansas, please define?


Heat the new copper gaskets to red hot and let them cool slowly. They will soften up and seal better.
raw1298
Thanks! Going to start, let you know how it goes later.
Tom_T
Make sure to support the full weight of the HEs & muffler in several places during removal & reinstall, so you don't tweak/strip the case studs by it dropping or it sitting crooked.
pete000
I just pulled mine yesterdy. I removed the muffler to reduce the weight a bit.

I soaked the studs with PB Blaster every day for three days. The nuts all came of easily. I noticed I had one missing copper gasket and one nut was very loose causing a slight leak.

Overall they came off easily beerchug.gif
raw1298
Done. All nuts came out easy. There were no washers in there, are there supposed to be? The nuts also were not very tight.
rjames
QUOTE(raw1298 @ Oct 30 2011, 11:05 AM) *

Done. All nuts came out easy. There were no washers in there, are there supposed to be? The nuts also were not very tight.


They were probably loose because they were the wrong kind of nuts.
Don't use washers. But do use the correct nuts:

Exhaust Stud Nuts

Don't over tighten the nuts when installing or you'll strip the threads for the studs. I think 18 ft lbs is the correct amount, but check the Haynes manual to be sure.
raw1298
QUOTE(rjames @ Oct 30 2011, 11:23 AM) *

QUOTE(raw1298 @ Oct 30 2011, 11:05 AM) *

Done. All nuts came out easy. There were no washers in there, are there supposed to be? The nuts also were not very tight.


They were probably loose because they were the wrong kind of nuts.
Don't use washers. But do use the correct nuts:

Exhaust Stud Nuts

Don't over tighten the nuts when installing or you'll strip the threads for the studs. I think 18 ft lbs is the correct amount, but check the Haynes manual to be sure.

Thanks, you are right they were the wrong nuts. I will get the correct ones when I reinstall.
messix
use a 1/4" drive rachet to resist the urge to over tighten the nuts.
rfuerst911sc
I'm a fan of adding some anti-seize compound on the threads of the studs to make it easier in the future to remove the nuts.
raw1298
When I go back in I'll put anti seize on it. Thanks for al the advise. biggrin.gif
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