These are "while I'm in there" tasks. Both of my cables are intact and were functioning when my car went up on stands. I have new Terry Cable units for both clutch and throttle.

I have done searches on both and have a general idea of what to expect, but I do have a couple of questions.

- Is it advantageous to do one or the other first?

- I know that the clutch cable runs through a solid tube all the way up to the pedal assemble. What about the throttle cable? I have read that it can get wrapped around the clutch cable, and I can't imagine how that would happen if it had a solid tube.

- I have read mixed opinions on using a fish string. I typically use weed-eater string for running wires and such. Would it make the job easier to tape some to the end of the old cables when I pull them out?

Thanks,
Ken

The cables don't run through a tube the entire way, so they can get intertwined. I would use a piece of string taped to the cable you are removing to prevent that from happening. Be sure to keep the old cables in the car in case of an emergency. You won't break one, but may be able to help another teener!

Will this "piece of string" urban legend EVER go away? The knot (or the tape) on the string, if not the string itself, will make the end of either cable too big to fit through the tube. We often have to gently reduce the size of the swedge on the throttle cable with a grinder as it is; more stuff in there is just getting down on your knees and BEGGING for the cable to get jammed in there. Jammed, you say? Ask around here, there are some VERY interesting jammed cable and blocked tube stories, and they ain't pretty.

The Cap'n

Thanks, Cap'n. I will not use string or any other chasing device. Can you say how far up the tunnel the tubes run? Do I need to worry about interference with the shifter, wiring harness, fuel lines, or just the two cables themselves?

The last time I replaced either one of these cables, I removed the drivers seat and the stearing wheel. Some might scoff at this as being unnecessary but I found it makes it much easier and it doesn't take much to remove either one.
Cheers, Elliot

Don't drink beer unless you have an iron gut and can hold it in upside down, at least till your done. Stretch out before you start. Lay blankets on the floor.

It ain't bad, but you can be in a tough angle till your done.

They run less than a foot forward of the shifter.

The Cap'n

Don't worry about it. Hook up the clutch cable first then take a 3" mirror and flashlight to look back inside the tunnel. At that point you will see if it is crossed or correct. Next connect the accelerator cable. This is a 1 on a 1-10 difficulty scale.

"rotate" the accelerator cable as you push it forward. sometimes if you just push it forward without the corkscrew motion, it can get hung up. a small squirt of of
WD-40 sprayed into the tube before inserting the accel. cable also helps it move through the tube. a small light and mirror to look down the center tunnel is very very important to see that you have not crossed the accelerator and clutch cable. also note the amount of threads of engagement on the old cable before removal.

Its' not rocket science, done it on the side of the road because I used a cheap accel cable. Went home got the old trusty used one and 10 minutes back on the road even with out jacking the car. Yes the clutch and accel can get wrapped around each other, you will know it the first time you push in the clutch and your rpms go up. Simple fix.

It' s very imoprtant to check the clutch tube and make sure it hasn' t broken away from its welds.