First off I need to say I do NOT blame this problem solely on Renegade. At this point I suspect this happened because the installer knew just enough to make the Renegade kit work, but not safely. That owu d fall in line with a lot of other almost right issues this car has had. This is now the second time this car has had issues with the CV's coming apart from the adapters. The first time it was the inner CV's, last week he called me about a loud clunking coming from the rear. This was the cause. I feel these were probably not installed correctly the first time as the roll pins were not all the way seated into the adapter, and I had a hell of a time getting the cv completely off. Once the two were seperated I pressed the roll pins in fully and the cv slipped on and off the pins as it should. All of the bolts got locktighted as well. I just thought anyone with a Renegade axle setup needed to be aware of this. IMO going to the 108 cv setup like Jim Kelly is doing is a much better route. It eliminates the adapter piece and gives a much larger cv. It does require 911 shafts, but if you're doing a V8 you need the tranny work done anyway. FWIW, I had not taken any bolt loose when these pics were shot. The 2 bolts that are not engaged at all, came out of the car just like that

Are we still entirely positive that this is the Renegade setup and not bug/thing adapters like you suspected? IIRC, you mentioned the adapter size is larger than 914 and smaller than 930?

From the Renegade site...



Hard to tell, but it looks like my setup. The previous owner of the car claims that he installed the Renegade axle upgrade....

I'm slowly going through this car trying to get it sorted. I'm finding a lot of little chicken shit issues that someone clearly half-assed along the way. As Scott has said, "they knew just enough to make it work".

I just re-wired and cleanly ran this wiring rat's nest in the front trunk yesterday...

Yeah I was looking at their site this morining and it apears to be exactly the same. I still think it may be VW cv's they use. Anyone else know for certain what the Renegade CV's are ?

Give them a call, (Renegade) we have two great members working there. No way to know without having them confirm it's a Renegade CV.

Ferg

I'm running the 100mm 944 cv's on modified 914 axles even though I have an extra two pairs of the 108mm flanges laying about. The weight difference is huge between the two.

If I had a big torque v8 instead of this 3.6 I'd probably run 108's on SwayAway axles, but the 100mm 911/944 cv's seem strong enough to take nearly all the power I'm gonna feed it, especially into a 914 or 915 transaxle.

But I used stock 914 cv's for years with both a strong 2.7L (1994-1998) engine and now the 3.6 (1998-2010). The 100mm upgrade was because it was easy to do and the cv's are still available. That said 108's are available too thanks to the off-road crowd using them in their buggies.

I've only got a second, running out the door literally, but here's the scoop:

There is no grease present when bolting the adapters to the stub axles/flanges. So, clean everything very well, then locktite the four short bolts holding the adapter to the flange and torque to 30 ft. lbs assuming you have 10.9/12.9 grade bolts.

Be sure to use the roll pins, which I see you have. Then install the axles normally, torquing to 30 ft lbs.

The only time I've ever seen the adapters come loose is when someone forgets the roll pins, well, outside of this case. So clean everything like you're going into surgery, locktite the bolts, torque, and enjoy. I've got lots of track days etc on my setup with no issues and I'm not one to drive conservatively.

He's Alive

Thanks for the help, Steve!

Happy to help. Alive and.... a 914 driver once again, my car is finally back on the road. I drove it for the first time in a year or so on Sunday.

I'm doing some quick jetting changes in preparation for a track event this weekend. I've run the re-geared 914 trans with my V8 914 for several years, including track events without issue. It's a tough package to beat for the price. You just have to be clean and smooth with your shifting and try to keep the sudden shock loads to a minimum. My foot was still planted flat to the floor most of the time. The only time I think I almost lost the trans was I missed a heal toe on a down shift coming down from 120mph into a hair pin and locked up the rear tire for a split second. That "chirp" could have done it, but it was fine.

I finally got around to doing the 930 trans upgrade and went with a little more motor. The trans can handle 700hp, so I don't expect to exceed it any time soon. Nothing too crazy on the motor, 400hp or so.

Jeez Steve, clearly you're a bit desensitized.

I'm running a stock trans for now, as Dr. Evil is building me a 4spd 901 with a Flipped H 5th(4th) gear.

I'm running around 230hp in my Chevy 305 and hanging on for dear life when I've got my foot in it whilst struggling to get traction. I cant even imagine 400hp in one of these cars.

I had a set of these on my car (very early version that uses Bus axles & CV's).

I had problems with one side coming loose, but in the end it way installer error.

Not cleaning the threads before torquing

not fully seated pins.

Not correctly torqued.

I've been completely ruined actually. It makes me feel like in Crocodile Dundee, when he says, "That's not a knife, THIS is a knife". I was really done in by a 700hp 911 with an LS7 that got traction and knew how to use it.

All that said, a 300 to 350hp 914 is about as fun as anything can get. My car is on the heavy side due to a fairly ridiculous amount of tubing, something like 150' or so. It's actually a tube frame car at this point. So 400hp in my car is about the same as 350hp in a lighter 914 V8.

I drilled mine for wire. Took a lot of bits. Using bolts which are 100% threaded seem to me you would get more stretch and come loose quicker.

That's what I was thinking. I've had a set of the Dr's (Evil type) drilled bolts and lock-wire waiting for the car to be put back together for quite a while.