I'm trying to remove my seized shock, and I decided that it would be easiest to remove the entire strut assembly. So, I undid the tie rod end, and removed the brakes. All that's left is the ball joint. I pulled out the 'double taper bolt' and I assumed that the hub would pull off of the ball joint farily easy. Boy was I wrong! I had a 5 foot pry bar and I was jumping on it (and I ain't a little guy), and the damn thing didn't even budge. So, whats the secret to seperating the ball joint from the strut? And once the strut is out, whats the secret for getting the shock out?

I have original Bilsteins, with the Bilstein struts. I've heard there is a roll pin that needs to be driven out, and I think I'm hitting it, but it's seized right up. It soaked in penetrating oil for 6 days, and I still can't even budge it. Also, is there a gland nut at the top of a Bilstein strut, or just the roll pin holding the shock in. Somebody must have some experience with this. Help me out, I'm frustrated and I hate my car right now! Sorry for the long post.

Thanks,

ball joint from strut: leave strut bolted in to the top of the fender.... wrap on the a arm a couple of times with a 5 lb sledge.... "pop goes the ball joint"

"Pickle-fork" and a 2.5 lb maul. Well, it worked for me (no compressor or air tools....yet )

Aaron's right about rapping on the arm. That worked for me.

But... you don't need to remove the strut or brakes to replace the shock insert. Jack the car up, unbolt the shock from the top, compress with your hands... swing the strut out of the wheel well. HTH.

-Rusty

Kinda...

put the shock back into the top...

put a floorjack under the rotor and start jacking it up until the car "just" comes off the stands.... you have now loaded the balljoint with the weight of the car for that side.. HIT the control arm just inside of the ball joint with a 3-5lb sledge. SOMETIMES this works.. the torsion bar "spring" will help move the torsion bar down..

Be careful.


There should be NO gland nut at the top. That roll pin is it. I have had to use heat and a press to get them out in the past.

B

Thanks guys, that was really quick! I had a jackstand under the rotor, so the balljoint was loaded. I tried banging on it, but my hammer ain't big enough, I guess. So I got a 5 ft pry bar that I wedged under the car, across the A-arm, right behind the ball joint. After jumping on it repeatedly, the only thing I managed to do was bend the bar. The ball joint hasn't even moved. Thats a 200lb guy with at least 3ft of leverage! I don't really want to use a pickle fork, because every time I have, it's screwed up the ball joint, and I'm cheap and the ball joints look ok, so I don't want to replace them right now.

I didn't want to undo the ball joint, but since the shock is seized, I can't actually compress it enough to get it out of the wheel well. Also, I'm thinking I'm going to need a press to get the stupid roll pin out, so the strut pretty much has to be out. This seems to get more and more frustrating!

Heat. Mapp gas or propane torch. Give up saving that ball joint. I also use a air chisel right next to the ball joint...


B

The teeter totter tool (my characterization) worked for me when all else failed. Mine's actually a copy of the original. The one with the black bolt, on the left in the JCWhitney photos, is the one I have.

http://www.shopping.com/xGS-Ball_Joint_Too...nkin_id-3055961

If the top of the ball joint is stuck into place, the bottom nut is sure going to be hella tight. I'd try to knock that loose first. Air chisel is the tool of choice for the bottom nut, IIRC. Otherwise, it's a real PITA.

-Rusty

i have the ball joint socket tool.... that and an impact wrench still had fun trin to break mine loose.

the saying...

"heat, beat, and repeat!"

rusty..what time is it over there in hell / iraq?

basically midnight here

11 am, right now.

Don't you need your beauty sleep? (Like I should be talking...)

-Rusty

I used a dremel and cut the nut and then pryed it off.

You will need to replace those ball joints sometime anyway. Remember the antiseize when you install your new ball joint and nut.

James