Hey guys and ladies,

I have had my 914 for over a year now, but hate to admit that it's spent most of that time in storage. Last Friday I decided to drive it to work (about 45 miles one way). It went to work and almost all the way home before suddenly (and I do mean suddenly) two cylinders stopped firing. I suspect that it has fouled the plugs - but I haven't had a chance to check it yet.

Okay, so I trailered it home and it's now in the shop. I was planning to check the plugs, and do a valve adjustment (...just because I know it hasn't been done while I've had it). I don't believe that the problems have anything to do with the electrical - I put on a Pertronix Ignitor and new plugs and wires last summer. Also, I plan to look over the vacuum on the motor and see if I can find any leaks.

I'm also suspect of the fuel injection system. I'm almost convinced to rip it off and put a set of carbs on it. It doesn't seem to idle correctly, and quite often seems to be very rich (black smoke).

Any other educated guesses? I would love an expert opinion in this matter, since I'm a complete novice to these air-cooled devils and especially on the FI.

Thanks guys

Depends on what 2 plugs fouled....could be trigger points....if it's a 1.7/2.0 with D-jet.

Crap...just reread your sig line...my bad, 1.8 with L-Jet....I know dick about them.....sorry.

FYI, it's a 1.8 with L-Jet (assuming it wasn't changed before I purchased the car)

Need more information... I have a 1.8L and what i know from it I have learned from times simular to yours. Is it getting spark? bla bla bla. plus their are some good L-jet specific sights that some other can hook you up with that give good information on troubleshooting. good luck.

Thanks for the replys and I'll try to get more information soon on the firing situation (but it's hard with the kids on summer vacation right now - just not enough time to spend with the 914). I suspect that it's firing okay, except that the plugs are now fouled (but that's just me guessing).

Also, I have a couple of other issues that I want to address - it seems to grind going into second some times (seems to depend on the RPM) and the brake pedal won't come all the way back up - I have to drag it back up with my toe, only then do the brakes fully release. I have purchased a new master cylinder (19mm) and braided brake lines, but I have some damn wheel locks that I don't have the key for - so until I get those off I'm screwed... I was thinking of trying the BMW brake swap thing, but haven't decided yet... Needless to say, I'm learning a lot and while it's a bit frustrating ('cause I wanna cruise in my car), it's still a lot of fun to work on.

Oh and I've been lurking on this BBS for the last year reading and learning and I have to say that this community is AWESOME! I've never seen a community so helping and, for the most part, bitch free.

Get your brakes up to snuff before throwing on BMW calipers....a good bleed with FRESH fluid, new lines, including the rubber ones, aggressive brake pads will be wonderful.

Do a diagnostic on the engine....leak down and compression check before throwing parts at it....

I've had injectors just work loose. I was worried something $$ was wrong, but I fixed it myself free.

There are some L-jet articles over on http://www.type2.com ; the later Buses also used L-jet.

On the brake pedal thing--you may have sticking pedal cluster bushings. The most common cause for that is them swelling due to brake fluid leaks from a failing master cylinder. Check for missing paint (and present rust!) around the pedal cluster. You may need to re-bush the cluster.

(NOTE: If you go with the bronze bushing kit that is commonly available, DO NOT USE the supplied roll-pin! Use your original if you can save it, or get the proper VW/Porsche part or get a good multi-layer one locally!)

--DD

I'll guarantee you that your pedal won't return because your pedal cluster bushings need to be replaced. Mine did the same thing. Rebuilt the cluster with new bushings and now it feels better than new. Cheap and very simple fix. (besides the part about getting a rusted clutch pedal off.)

okay - time to demystify another tale ...

is this STILL true ? i know there was a bad batch in the aftermarket distribution channel a few years ago - but are they really STILL out there ? are the aftermarket people really using roll pins from a different source than Stoddard ?

i had my clutch pedal go to the floor with a bang (followed by a $235 flatbed ride home) this weekend and i was all prepared for it to be the roll pin i'd installed from the pedal bushing set (and i have spares from the dealer, just in case - they look the same to me...) but in fact, it was the STUPID PLASTIC PART Porsche uses to actuate the fork (on '70 and '71 911's - so don't freak out 914 people following along ...)

anyway - have there been any RECENT cases of pedal bushing kit roll pins failing ?

Yes on the pin failures. The pins currently being sold in the kits will break over time. They are visibly different. I caught one about to break a few weeks back. Guy said his clutch pedal felt funny..I checked the clutch adjustment.. it was fine. Grabbed the pedal and watched the roll pin move. I asked him if he had rebuilt the pedal assembly recently. He said: "yes about 3 months ago" Sold him a Porsche roll pin and sent him on his way.


B

Ever hit a deer going 50 MPH in a 914? I Have

Yes Eric, I have. 65 mph. My front end on the 72 is now primer because of it.

These little cars hold up very well to that abuse.

Thanks for all of the great information! I'm overloaded with info right now (but I love it!).

I'll check about getting a bushing set for my pedals and get that taken care of - and especially a big thanks on the info about the pins. I wouldn't have had a clue.

Dave: Thanks for the site on the L-Jet stuff! It's an incredible resource! Oh, and I want to say a big thanks to Pelican Parts (!!!) - just got an order in last night and, as always, it's great stuff.

I bought a compression tester and a set of feeler gauges last night, might look into getting a fuel pressure gauge as well for testing the L-Jet. Can't wait until I have some time to work on the teener.