I don't want to pull all a that crap off just to change the engine bar *and* mounts. If you've done it that way before, please tell me about it. Thanks. I'd rather be my 914.

Would something like this be long enough to get on that nut from the side of motor? And short enough from the joint to the end of the socket?

Craftsman 3/8 in. dr. 10 in. Flex Handle

Gint,
I removed and reinstalled my engine bar without removing any of that stuff, however I did not replace the rubber mounts. I did it because I installed it wrong the first time. Don't remember if the top rubber mount nuts could be accessed or not. Bottom ones can be accessed easily and mine came off rather easily, then just unbolted the bar after supporting the engine and swapped it end for end and bolted it back up. Maybe 30 minutes.
Tom

This motor has an early 1.7/tailshift bar on it. It needs to be changed and mounts need to be added. That nut on the top is the one that's a PITA to get without removing all the other junk.

I switched from tail shift bar to side shift bar with engine on the floor. It took about an hour. It would take longer to remove the fan and shroud in my opinion.

...and mounts. I better change that title.

You want to do this with the engine in the car right? I can't see ho you would be able to get to the mounts w/o pulling the doghouse. I've pulled the front off with the engine in the car and it's a bitch. I think it's easier to drop the engine and reinstall it when you are done.

The motor/trans is on jackstands on the floor at the moment.

Maybe this bar isn't early. This motor has the bottom bar from this PET page. What is this bar for anyway? Could it be a late 2.0 bar? Will it work with a side shifter as long as I get the goofy transmission like mounts for the side mounting of the bar?

If I remember correctly, I used a 6" long 1/4" breaker bar to get in there. That is what took so long.

The bottom bar is the early bar. If that is the one you have, there are no rubber mounts behind the fan housing, ergo no reason to remove the bar unless you are upgrading to sideshift. If you just want to change the mounts, they are on the ends of each sides.

Side shift linkage bar goes through the hole in the top one fwiw.

I know.

I should explain I guess. I'm not upgrading to a side shifter. My car always had a side shifter in it. This late 2.0 motor is new to this car. I don't know why it has an early bar on it. Scott must have had a tail shifter in his car when this motor was the Martini car.

And yes, it's becoming more and more apparent that I'm going to have to remove that crap because not only does te bar need to be changed, and mounts added, but the mount bracket on the motor needs to be changed as well.

Easier in the long run to just pull it apart. Oh, and change the front main seal while you are in there, and you may as well clean everything, and then change to oil cooler seals since they are right there. Since you just changed the cooler seals, you may as well put in a new oil pressure sender since it is exposed now. That distributor O ring might leak a bit as well. After having done all those, you would be crazy not to do the push-rod tube seals.

I know from recent experience that you are trying to avoid while-I-am-in-there-itis. However, my car is now leak free for the first time since I bought it in '98.

You can take the bar off without taking the engine apart. Just make sure you support the engine while you remove the bar.

The side mounts should be easy to change without removing the bar from the engine at all. Just remove all the bolts and let the engine dive a bit.

I never tried to remove a tailshift bar from the engine inside the car but I did so with a side-shift bar. I found that the easiest way was to remove the motor brackets from the engine and take of the bar with the brackets. Else, the top nuts are very hard to access. I assume that the same is true for tail-sift.

Having said that, I don't understand how you have a side-shift with a tail-shift bar. I would expect the shifter rod to hit it.

This motor is already leak free. I'm not doing any of that stuff. It's going back in the car with as little work as possible.


I don't; That's why I have to change the bar.

I got it from here folks. I'm gonna have to suck it up and take the auxiliary crap off to change out this bar. Thanks for the interest.

I've done a ton of 'em in the car without removing the shroud. However, sitting on jack stands makes it a lot tougher, and I recommend biting the bullet and pulling the shroud. Probably take you about a half hour or 45 minutes for the whole job.

The Cap'n

Just did this today. Not as tough as I had expected. I have the heat echangers all off which helped on space a bit.

My mounts were a bit squished, but not broken. Now cross member gets powder coated and new mounts going in.

Doable, but easier with the fan shroud off.

I replaced the motor mounts without dropping the motor on my 74. I removed the bar first, and then removed the oil filter. I was able to reach in from the side and use a short 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the upper nut of the motor mount. I could just barely swing it far enough for one click of the ratchet.

Access may be worse for the bolts that hold the mount brackets onto the front of the engine, though. The brackets have a reinforcement that will at least partly get in the way. I'm not sure about that.

--DD

Dave, I completely disagree.
After failing to get the upper bolt of the motor mount off and braking my hands for 1 hour, I took off the bolts that hold the mount to the engine without any difficulty. Didn't take off the fan shroud or the oil filter. You can easily access those bolts with a ratchet (I probably used a 3/8 due to the torque).