Taking apart a fresh rebuilt 2.0 and i noticed the heads qere on wrong side. The one with the head temp sensor spot was on 1,2cylinder side. possible reasons, problems?

Inattentive rebuilder. I did that on one of my first engines, you get excited to install the heads and forget which is which. Since both heads have bosses, I just drilled and tapped the other side and moved on.

Thanks, good to know it is not problematic. i am going to pull the heads off to see what i have in there so i will just swap them back.

So I started to take my "rebuilt" motor apart to see what I was dealing with. I am going to continue to split it while I am here and do 2056 with 9550 and my djet.
Here are the pictures of my 2.0 heads, looks like one intake valve and guide have been replaced. How do they look, anything stand out in terms of things to worry about? Is that seam on the inside of the intake part of the casting, seems to be in all the the intakes? There seems to be a few tiny pits around the top of the intake near the guide.

On a related note anyone know of good a machine shop in Canada to look over my GA case etc. as well as the heads?
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Last one of intake and some of cylinders. They look ok other than strange scratches. Pistons are marked with 93.97 and a X. Anyone know who made them?
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Looks like bus pistons. Heads don't look too bad
I can help with what you may need, PM me.


Normal casting marks.

I would have the valves replaced that one with all the pits in it looks bad.

This is a sure sign they were taking short cuts and only did the absolute bare minimum. Those heads should go to a machinist that knows 914 heads and be looked over. When does just 1 valve guide wear out and the others are all good?

Jim

Reusing valves is Russian Roulette.. Especially those that have seen damage from rust.
Tick. Tick.... wait for the boom!

Been to Marks a couple times now... If the pistons go sideways.. he probably has it..

Where in Ontario are you ?

Thanks for the advice everyone. They will be getting all new valves and guides. Will work with Mark to get them sorted out. I am glad I decided to tear down the engine. I ordered Jake's video to help me figure out how to put it back together proper.

Hyde, I am in Ottawa.

Can't wait to see what is in the case, its like opening up a present, never know what your going to find. I found this sitting in the case, fell out of the bottom of the oil filler/breather piece.
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Very common; that's the cover over the bottom of the PCV valve in the breather tower. It just plugs in, and seems to like to fall out after ~20 years when you remove the oil filler.

--DD

post #12 is a tribute to Sir Andy

Do I need a new clutch disc?
Seriously though, do I need a new pressure plate, is it normal to have a little surface rust on there after sitting for awhile, will it just come off after some normal use, do I need to sand it off, or do I need to scrap it?
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Down to the rivits? Yes.

When you come down to see me bring it with you, I can check it and/or I have lots of engine spares.

So I finally had time to finish the tear down. Didn't look that bad to me, but what do I know. I didnt find any chips or groves on the case bearing surfaces, but the one thing I did find is that the bearing numbers made an impression on the case surface on the centre main and from what I read in the Tom Wilson book is that means it was hammered in there and the bore will now be oval. Has anyone found that to be the case? I cant find anyone in town to align bore it so was hoping to remain STD. I will have the case measured at a local shop to check but they will have no type 4 knowledge. The crank looked perfect. Whats up with the elephant, that a VW symbol?
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the rest
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sorry, here is a good one of the impression of the bearing numbers

This is hurting my eyes!

Find the macro button on your camera, will 'ya?

Sorry. Hmm, maybe I shouldn't be trying to rebuild an engine when I can't figure out a camera.....

All those bearings look brand new compared to mine.

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And my cam bearings reminded me of an ant farm.

Your in now, you should do as much as your budget allows.

Yikes, that is ugly. Mine did fit nice and tight as you can see by the marks on the center main from my pliers.

Replace the whole clutch..pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing. How long ago was the rebuild? 90K? 120K? I can't imagine rebuilding the engine and not replacing the clutch.

that whole mess is ugly, rebuilt when?

and you are a master at andy's photo method of photography

I don't have any history on the engine, was told when I bought it that it was rebuilt recently, but looks like it was probably just "pressure washed and painted".
I will be replacing the clutch disc obviously, I was just asking about the pressure plate since it didnt look bad at first glance.
Yes, I will try an electron microscope photo next time for SirAndy.

Anyone have any comments on the hammering of the bearing number transfer onto the case bearing surface?

Andy is just jazzing you about the photo's. A classic case of "the pot calling the kettle black". Andy is known for his blurry pic's.

Y ah I figured

This one looks toast for sure..

That was from my pliers when I pulled them out.

I went thru the same type questions about my case. "Do I need to Align Bore, should I Deck the case?" And I had no local Type 4 machine shop. A type 1 guy took a look but did not measure anything. He noted this on mine: With the case split, look at the mating surfaces above and below the bearing. The round areas where the thru bolts go. The areas around the middle bearing (#2?) were very smooth, like there had been movement. the other bearing areas still had machine marks from the factory. I finally found a small shop to measure for me. Turns out the case bore was straight. Probably need to find a type 4 or VW shop to measure stuff for you.

Len gave me a shade tree trick. Take the circle bearing without the thrust, #3 i think. Put it into each of the three bearing locations in each case 1/2. If if fits nice and tight, and you see no light under or around it, you are doing pretty good. Also you can put #1 and #4 (or #3) bearing back in leaving the middle out. place the crank in each case half and use a dial gauge placed on the the crank and turn the crank and watch the gauge. Harbor Freight has a dial guage and a stand for pretty cheap. That checks for a bent crank. 3rdly, mock up your crank and bearings with alittle oil on the bearing and torque up the case, stick you hands in and try to turn the crank. you should get 360 degrees of easy spinning. these are just warm and fuzzy ways to see what is up. Try to find a type 4 shop.

BTW from your bearing pictures, I think the PO told you the truth. Those are fairly fresh bearings.

You need new bearings. All of them for sure.
You might need an align-bore but measurement is the only way to say for sure.
Check your crank as well.
After you have the crack and journal measurements, start looking for bearings.

The more I look the more I see.

May not be anything.

Thanks, I will try those tips. I checked the machine surface on at the main and on one of the sides the machining is there while on the other it is smooth in some areas, same side where those bearing number imprints were, interesting. I will find a shop around or ship it, just want to check it out on my own first so I have an idea of where I am at.

Thanks for checking.I looked more closely there and it seems like it is just raised seam areas from the casting.