OK....This isn't my actual tie rod but it's the same set up. I've removed the nut on the top of the tie rod end and I assumed that it would come right off....but NO.

Am I missing something??? Is there some sort of trick that only the elite Porsche suspension guys know about in order to separate these two pieces??? I've tried tapping on it with rubber mallett....but nuthin!!

Any hints on separating it??

Thanks!!!
ED

Click to view attachment

Ah, that is a secret for those that know

A big hammer is your friend

That requires a tie rod separator tool.

There's a simple one that you can hit with a hammer, but it ruins the rubber boot on the rod end.

It looks like this:

Hammer on the outside of the steering arm ( the round portion )the end bolts into , wack it a few good hits , it will pop out. Don't hammer on the end bolt as it will bugger the threads up.

Jack

If your rod end is good, don't touch it with that fork!

Use a puller. Here are some options. For the tie rod, I prefer the two arms.
Also don't hit it with a hammer as it will bent and you'll be sorry.

http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-p...uller-1752.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-j...-set-40966.html

Yes, if you want to save or reuse the tie rod end, use this:

It's simple enough to hit the steering arm with a hammer...there is a flat spot on it just for that purpose.

Rich

Been doing it this way for a very long way.
Much faster too.

Jim

Jim, sometime I need you to show me this trick. I've tried it on multiple occasions, on multiple models, and never had any luck.

I only use Joes 2nd tool. Not a fan of buggering up nuts or treads with a BFH.

You have to use a steel hammer and hit it hard enough to deform the tappered hole and the rod end will pop out. Med-large ball-peen works great. No damage to the boot or threads. That is the reason they are tappered.

jcl

I used a FLAPS tool to save the threads. A hammer could make meat out of the bolt.....

You don't bugger the nut or threads because you hit the end of the arm not the tie rod end. It does take a good hit with a good size hammer.

If you miss you can bugger any number of things.

Jim

Its a tapered hole in the steering arm.
I did not believe it would work...but it really is simple...just a BFH.

Most of these arms have a flat nub on the outer most point....the farthest away from the arm portion, so its the most flexible part of the tapered hole....hope that makes sense.

on a 914, turn the offending wheel all the way to one side so you expose the arm out of the fender....so you can swing.
the flat spot is staring at you.
Stand up, car on the ground, ass to the fender.
get a 3lb hammer and hit that flat spot like you are trying to break the fitting...hit it hard and hit it very square...no lazy taps, no lazy side blows that bounce off.
One or two really good square shots dead center.
Its cool once you get one....
You will never use any tools again..just hit it right...and it pops out.

There is no damage to anything and it can all be put back together and used again....so its really good for strut work that does not require new tie rods...CSOB thing to do.

Rich

That works very good 90% of the time. It spreads the metal slightly and opens the hole while creating a shock at the same time. Rarely they still remain stuck....

But if it won't budge still, raise the car up an extra 1 ", cut a piece of angle iron, pipe or square tubing and lower the car back down to rest on the arm close to the end. With the arm supported you can smack the tie rod once and it will pop right out. The previous method will help this method regardless.
Click to view attachment

Never had to do it another way on a 914 as they have always popped loose with a few whacks.

Those other tools are nice to use if you have them.

I edited the picture posted.
Right where the arrow is pointing..there is a flat spot on almost every one I have ever seen....its directly opposite the arm...so its the weak spot.

all it takes is one really good hit...but its gotta be right on square.
It compresses the joint for just a second and squirts out the tie rod..

Rich

I like this method because it allows me to sell more tie rod ends. NEVER hit the threaded portion of the tie rod end! EVER.

The Cap'n

notice teh divot in teh center of teh threaded shaft. they all have this feature. I use a blunt tipped round long cone tip on my air chisel. it fits in that hole. hold teh air hammer in straight alingment to the shaft. it will not damage the TR end nor the strut steering arm

NEVER? EVER? As I stated, smacking them on the side of the arm works 90% of the time flawlessly. When it doesn't I provided a method that will get it off. Most people are taking them off to replace so for those it doesn't really matter even if you were to mushroom the threads. The arm is properly supported and it's safe to do so.

Does that tie rod in the picture really look like something I would reuse?

Perhaps your comment should state "NEVER smack it if you want to reuse it" In that case, I might not totally agree but I could understand your concern of damaging a good part.

All good info though

Yeah, but even then you may balloon it so it doesn't come out. I have see it happen.

If there is ever a reason to hit the actual bolt I always put a nut on it to save it from doing anything bad. Make sure it is threaded enough if you do this as well.

If hitting the arm does not work, add some heat.