I've been told that it is possible to reflash the computer to the Subaru WRX engine.

Anyone know the protocol in doing something like that?

The program your looking for is called RomRaider, it's free AFAIK. There is a forum on the site where you download it that can help answer any questions you have.

Kevin

I use the Cobb tuning AccessPORT device on my daily driver. Allowed me to add modifications to my car and reflash for them.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/

Iv been told by Dom at Maxwell the WRX 03-10 can not be reflashed. The STIs can but the wrx can not. That why you have to run the cobb pluged into the computer.


jcl

I have reflashed my 06 wrx many times with no computer.

I thought a person had to have a laptop and a special cord to reflash the ecu?

I'd have to have some help, as I wouldn't know beans from bacon about doing it and wouldn't want to blow up the engine.

Is that Cobb something that you leave plugged into the ecu then?

I could be wrong but the way I was told the cobb plugs inbetween the wrx ecu and lets you change most of the tables, timing,injecting,ect. But as soon as the cobb is removed the ecu reverts back to stock. The cobbs are also tied into the ecu so you have to call cobb, if its moved to another ecu. They work great.

Sti ecu's can be tuned and reflashed with the new tables.

If your looking to do a stand alone a Hydra is a good way to go. Are you looking to do a conversion/swap? Call your local suby tuner they should know. In the north west its getadomtune.com


jcl

What's a Hydra? First time I've heard of that one.

I was just wanting to get a few more ponies out of it.

What about boost controller?

Don't use a manual boost controller on a WRX motor. Seen too many blow up from improper use.

If you don't want to actually teach yourself how to tune and re-map your ECU, just buy the Cobb AccessPort. It will come with off the shelf tunes to get more power. When you are ready, you can take it to a dyno to get more power.

I had a tuner sell me a tune from another customer with the same year car, and same exact modifications. I have no problem keeping up with an STI, or V8 pushrods.

I would spend some time @ www.nasioc.com & www.i-club.com to learn about other options. Just speaking from my experience.

Matt

I've never done this before. Is this something that is self explanatory?
I'm just looking to bump it up about another 40-50 horsepower to about 300. Is this something that would enable me to do that?

Once I get it set, do I just leave it permanently plugged in?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5Lb6tHvZ4U...D359A9B597AB396

It is stupid simple to do.

To get a 50HP bump, you will need to at least add an aftermarket downpipe exhaust. ($175-$500)

Once you have re-flashed your ECU, you can remove the device completely. (although the programmer is tied to your ECU at that point, meaning no one else can use the programmer until you return to factory settings)

The best bang for your buck is to buy a used one off the nasioc classifieds, along with a downpipe.

You can run a used OEM VF39 or VF43 turbo from an STI, and really get big power gains (100HP, but then you have to start thinking about bigger injectors is you have the 2.0 motor, and a higher flow fuel pump)

How do I know if I have this aftermarket down pipe exhaust or not?

I don't recall if that was something that came with the Renegade kit or no?

If not, what size of pipe would I be looking at?

For just 50 ponies more, I wouldn't have to mess with changing injectors or fuel pump?
I was thinking the mechanic used a 928 fuel pump in it.

I'm sorry, did not realize you were using this engine in your 914.

The exhaust after your turbo should be free flowing as possible. Are you using the RH turbo downpipe piece?

On my street car, I have full 3" exhaust from the turbo back. You will only need a large fuel pump for a large aftermarket turbo. I suspect the 928 pump is plenty.

Do you have the 2.0 motor?

I have the Subaru 2.0 EJ20
I can find out what I have for a current pipe.
If I'm wanting to just bump it by 50 ponies, then I don't need to do anything besides change the down pipe, if I don't have one big enough, correct?

Correct.

Here are some different factory downpipes, with an aftermarket one on the left.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/291016..._57e5d23162.jpg

You want to avoid the flat plate blocking the waste gate like on the factory pipes.

There are actually a couple of different ways to re-flash that ECM. Most, like Cobb, have a stand alone-hand held unit that plugs into your OBDII connector to either live monitor or re-flash your ECM called AccessPORT. You do not have to have it connected all the time. There is also a program for a lap top with an interface cable that does the same thing. The advantage of the hand held unit is that you can log your performance parameters to quantify your changes in either your engine map or when your change up to a higher performance engine part so you can actually see if you achieved any performance gain or if you just wasted $200.00 for some shiny bling. You can then take the unit and connect it to your laptop or desktop to download your logs for viewing/Emailing/storing. You can also log and live monitor with the lap top but it is kinda hard on it when you do some aggressive driving and the laptop is sliding around the floor.

Cobb, and others have OTS (off the shelf) maps which you can download from their site. There are tuners that can mail you a custom map after you send them a few engine logs and list out what is on/in the motor. If the motor is in a 914 then I would suggest to properly tune it, find a local tuner that can get some touchy feely from your car. The first question I would ask them: Do you guaranty the map and will you keep trying until you produce a map that we are both happy with?"

The worst scenario for those engines is detonation! After any mod, check the log for knock! Usually a stage 2 requires some aftermarket exhaust, usually 3" and if you like noise, a cat delete. The intake requires a cone style filter with a new MAF sensor housing. These mods will net you somewhere in the neighborhood of 12% - 17% HP gain if I remember correctly.

As far as the size of the down pipe, just crawl under it and eye ball the diameter of the pipe with a tape measure??

Look at the exhaust right after the turbo. This is the most crucial area to free up flow (boost will come on earlier)

Not great : http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/attachment...-hks-dp-002.jpg

Optimal: http://www.makotoautotrends.com/images/INV...RX-DOWNPIPE.JPG

Sometimes on a suby turbo motor the knock sensor will pull timing from noises other than piston knock. You can build a audio device from a cheap hearing improver by removing the microphone and putting it on the end of a long wire and using a aligator clip to put it on a bolt head to actually listen to the top end of the motor while you are doing a 3rd or 4th gear pull under boost. You can hear knock before the sensor will signal the ecu to pull timing. ALWAYS check for timing being pulled on a suby when you change the tuning. And always check the oil very often as it will break down and thin out and dissappear really quick on these small capacity oil pan motors. Raising boost and tuning is easy to do, keeping the motor reliable is not as easy. Every time my son comes out to visit he seems to be looking at the logs on his laptop in the front seat of his suby to see where his motor is running. Actually he usually just runs it hard in 4th gear on a safe straight road in the country so the laptop just rides in the seat. He has been try ing to get the idle on e85 with new big injectors set so he's spent a lot of time in front of the laptop.