Hi guys
Not sure if my starter is giving me trouble at the moment and had been thinking of switching to a high torque starter anyway.
Just really wondering where the best place to get one from would be.
There used to be a guy on ebay that had heaps of starters and had resonable prices now it just seems to be siera madre and PMS.
Tried the ups calculator and have been quoted 54000 to ship to australia so thats something i am interested in too.
Cheers for the help
Edwin

Edwin,

Proline out of Parker, AZ makes the best one. I think he is about $160 on his.

Shipping should be a maximum of $54.00 via USPS Priority Mail Large Flat Rate Box. If it fits in a Medium Flat Rate Box then about $44.00.

The other guy is here in Riverside, but won't let me come by to look. His brand is IMI.

If you want, I can contact Ron @ Proline and see how much he wants for one.

Realize, they are Japanese gear reduction starters with a new nose (Hitachi or Nippondenso).

I have an IMI and am very happy with it.

After meeting SLITS, if I knew he endorsed another vendor, I'd have gone with them.

The IMI hasn't let me down in over a year.

Thanks for the help guys
It looks like pelican sell the IMI brand and i could probably grab some other bits i cant get here in aus at the same time.
Does the guy you know have an email Slits?
At the moment I am guesing the starter is a small part of the problem i have but may as well fix while i'm here. It's getting really hot after 6-7 revs and voltage at the ecu i'm using drops to 9v while cranking which i expect is a lot of my no start problem.
Thanks again
Edwin

I bought one of the cheap ones on e-Bay maybe 3 years ago. Apparently it was constructed out of junk yard parts. It failed after 6 months, but I was able to get a local shop to repair it and it has been great ever since. If I had it to do over again, I would probably pay the extra money and get one constructed of all new parts.

If you are dropping to 9 volts, you don't have enough to kick the solenoid as the wiring to the starter, battery cables, etc are probably old and have high resistance.

A cheap fix is the "hot start relay kit" from Bosch. An even cheaper fix is to use a standard Ford solenoid and wire it up.

If you need one to try, I'll see what it costs to send you one.

Had the same problem and used one of Ron's solenoid. It's been fine for 2 yr's.

be careful of the e-bay high torque. The biggest problem is they sit too close to the flywheel and will take out you flywheel teeth I ran one and it works great but you MUST check the teeth contact/wear pattern if you don't want to do alot of work later. Mine required about .040 shim I made up to space it out abit.

SLITS was right check for low voltage @ starter (and repair) 1st.

thanks for the tips.
All battery cables are new and i have rigged both a direct wire to battery and also a relay on the starter both as diagnostics and both still give same symptoms.
battery is an optima type sealed 750cca so i have no doubts about it and ran it on my charge and maintain charger just to be sure.
Startr will run but boggs down on compression strokes after 2 or 3 turns.
It nevr ran quick but didnt need to with the carbs that were on it. Now with aftermarket injection i am having trouble cranking fast enough and the ecu drops sensor power out below 9v.
I assume the high torque starters will be much quicker and use slightly less power?
Thanks again
Edwin

I thought about changing to a high torque starter - but ended up with a refurbished (regular) one from my FLAPS for $30 (with lifetime warranty).

The refurbished starter made a world of difference. My battery has <600 CCA and it turns over like a champ. My battery used to be able to only turn the engine over two or three times without needing a recharge - now I just did a compression test, cranked each cylinder 8 times, and it still fired right up.

I used to think about changing my batter all the time to help with my starting issues. That's a thing of the past now.

i bought this one for my V8 conversion but when we hooked it up - it seems to not reach the teeth on the flywheel - so i wound up using a 911 starter. anyone see any issues with this one or the plunger measurements?

i was able to easily pull the plinger on the high torque starter but not on a 914 starter i have. guess i need to hook that one up to a battery to see the travel range of it's plunger.

So are you saying that when the gear is retracted it sits too far forward and will still interfere with the flywheel?

Or are you saying that when it engages it goes too far forward and grinds itself into the face of the flywheel?

There are several threads, awhile back anyway on the issues. I don't remember what exactly happened. I had no issues but I was aware of the problem and put white lube one the teeth then cranked it thru and checked the contact pattern. Sure nuf' it wasn't centered (to far in). I guesstimated a full contact shim/spacer apx. .040" thick (to the starter to case surface). That centered the starter gear to flywheel teeth. I don't remember any retracted grinding issues before or after.

Ron's endorsement means a lot to me. It's the first time I've seen that. Unless the price is way out of line, I'd probably buy from him in the future.

I've purchased 3 hi-torque starters on eBay and have been running them for several years with no problem. The vendor info is in this thread. I don't know if it is the same eBay vendor that Ron references, but I've had consistently good experiences with him and the starters I've purchased from him.

Thanks for the info. The one I bought on eBay included the spacer so now I know what to look for in alignment.

Could I please have Ron's contact info for a starter?

Thanks

DAvid

I was just wondering what started you tried. Was it for Porsche or was it for a SBC?



Thanks,

Parker

In addition to the other comments I would also like to suggest you verify that the ground strap from the transmission to the body is attached properly and in good condition.

I replaced all the battery cables last month when i pulled the engine. I added an extra ground to the starter and a new trans to body ground.
I pulled the starter out this morning and dropped it into my auto elec to look over but i did notice it was pretty firm to turn over.
will keep you posted.
Thanks
Edwin

Pick up a 700lbs of torque starter for my 911 3.0 it also fits 1.7 1.8 2.0 from Pelican part # pel- ge- STHT for 249 but someone on this thread listed 160 for a real good one from another company. I talked to a guy whom had already purchased one like mine he is happy and over a year of so in the car with about 1500+ km a year on average that he drives it -Phil

edwin,
Have you checked your battery voltage when the ECU falls below 9v? If the battery voltage is OK and the ECU voltage is down, you have a voltage drop in the power to the ECU. If this is the case, check the condition of the 4 red wires at the battery positive for broken strands and corrosion. Two go to the relay board and two to the dash.
Tom

2 thoughts

A couple months ago there was a thread on starters, and one of the serious mechanics here (don't remember whi) said if all the grounds in the car were up to snuff, we'd have no starter problems (hot start was the topic)

And...most cities still have starter/generator shops that can do a complete rebuild on what you have. google is our friend.

I second this experience!!! I have several starters and overall i'm happy with the ebay one except that it sits too close to the flywheel teeth. Fixed with a shim.

Hi guys
Had the starter reconditioned i december and the car would start fine if the ecu would play ball.
Starter works a treat now it's just the rest of the setup thats holding me up now.
Good way to waste a good 5 months of sunny weather.
Cheers for all the help
Edwin