Im getting a little p/o's over here... I think I have tried at least 7 different ways for the water pump to fit... But so far, every time I THINK I got it, some stupid thing gets in the way... Currently my exhaust manifolds are basically touching the water pump with the pump located on the right. On the left, it was doing the same thing... The pump is all the way extended on its extender thinggy.. and everything is rotated down.

Stock exhaust manifolds only.. I know headers will fit anything.

If need be I'll take a pic of what I have currently.. but im just to po'd to do that now.

You have to run the "ram horn" style or headers.

Take a pic.. cant help you if I cant see the issue.


B

2 mins..

and I'll take some pics..

Do you have any pics of v8's with stock exhaust?

I dont know anyone who runs stock exhaust... I dont even know what "stock" is.


B

Aight.. the water pump is not tightened down. so there is less clearance than it looks...

And the pipes...

I'll get some stupid headers if you know some cheap one's that will fit.

Yep. All the headers swoop back... and away from that area.

I think we have a GoodGuy's event coming up again in Pleasanton (few weeks) I would buy headers from a swap meet is what I'm getting at.


B

Steve (who I havent heard from in a week and a half.. who I need to get in contact with... but I dont have his number..) Hurt had his post 86 engine running with all the smog stuff and bla bla bla...


Its just getting frustrating...

This should be done by now, I feel unproductive, stupid, lazy... I want to be able to get this stupid thing done....

OH ya, and to top it off, last week I found out that the front mount bar didnt fit, reason was because of the pic that I will show you... there are 3/4 or 1/2 in spacers for the custom mounts.. I either have to get rid of one (cause engine to be on one side..) or machine both sides down by hand equally (been doing that for a week off and on... thick metal so it gets hot and stays hot.. can only work on it for a couple of mins...)

Those fittings SUCK. The later fittings have a beed role in them to keep the hoses from blowing off. The remote water pump has NO provision for bypassing water before the t-stat opens like a regular SBC water pump...so the pressure builds as you rev the engine cold and it blows off the hose on one of the 4 fittings.

Find a machine shop with a tiny hand held beed roller. I have updated several fitting this year for people.


B

Ya theres another swap meet around here thats pretty big.. maybe the same one.. but its local to me.. We where going to look for a torker manifold, good electric fuel pump, tach, guages.. bla bla bla....

I want to get it driving before then.. school and work and all....

The mount bar shouldnt need anything but those mounts.... not sure why the spacers are there. Show me a pic of the crossbar... I noticed it sitting under the engine.. pull it out and shoot a pic for me.


B

Oh ya the fittings... Steve said I have to put double clamps on it.. I think I'll put three.. lol

What about etching a grove in there by hand with a file or something? I'll see what a machine shop locally can do..

Any idea on the mounts?

You type to fast..

you want a measurement? I'll do that to..

Ok, from the middle of each bolt hole its 16 1/2..

and the pic...

I just dont use the mouse to do anyting... the keystroke for sending a post is:

alt/s


B

lol.. ahh the fun of it...

But your brain has to go from one subject to another super fast...

I just dont know how you do it.. lol

Ok.. here is what I *think* happened. The engine mounts (rubber ones) are for a VERY early SBC and you have a later block. They bolted those adapters on instead of locating a later style mount.

Your crossbar is bone stock for what RH sells.


B

Steve was where the mount came from.. so his was the later block.

I have no clue what block it is, asside from it should be the same as a 74 block..

If its the same.. Can I just skip the spacers?

er?

Bolt it up and try it. I'm betting it fits.

There is a casting number on your block at the back below the dizzy area... write the numbers down. GM has several websites where they decode the numbers and tell you exactly where the engine came from (car/truck/year)


B

Skip the spacers, and if you want to run stock manifolds, you will have to do as Brad suggested, the Ram Horns are the only ones you can run stock. I am running block hugger headers and have no clearance problems on mine. I got them on Ebay for like 100 bucks and they are ceramic coated.

skline, pls post pic of your Headers.

Thanks Rey

Get some block huggers from Summit for $80 part# SUM-G9060.

Thanks James Hey I like your rear deck lid hinge fix. can they be instaled with the motor in?

Ask for and you shall receive.

Thats some BLIG BLIG. Is that an oil filler at the front of the motor?
What dose the ceramic coated headers do for you?

THey stay nice looking, and they dissapate heat better. I wont need to wrap these like normal headers. The oil filler has been removed since it would not fit, I am using the oil filler in the valve cover.

What about the shift linkage? How does the hugger headers affect that?

It doesnt affect it at all, the linkage is way below the pipes. That is what happens when you have it all together before taking it to a muffler shop to do the exhaust, They work around everything and make it fit correctly.

Ya... I think I'll spring for a new exhaust system...

300 bucks is what a guy quoted my dad for his turbo.. so it should be less... Especially when I provide the mufflers and such....

If only someone would buy my "stock" exhaust.. hmm.. ebay...

$100? That just kills me. And that is for a pair of headers, 2 times 4 cylinders each.

Last time I checked a ceramic coated T4 header costs $$$...

Scott, The engine looks great!

Okay, Andrew, you can have your thread back. Good luck with the conversion. Sounds like fun!

I haven't found ceramic coated headers for less than $220. I use the ones made for early Vettes. The non-coated headers from Summit are <$100. The engine compartment gets very warm so the coated ones should help reduce temps.
Felix

with maf914. That's the reason I converted to a V8. Looked at a six conversion but after getting a cheap six, adding 100 HP costs $$$$. Adding 100 HP to a 'murkin V8 costs about $100 :-) Gotta love supply and demand. Then again, there is nothing quite like the sound of cam chain whistle!

How do the $100 ebay coated headers hold up, any flaking or discoloration? Has anyone been using them for any length of time?

-datapace

These look very close to the ones in sklines picture...
Skline, any comments... Same seller?

eBay Headers

Thom

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=34203


Those are 60, not ceramic though....

Sorry, Andyrew, I have not been available lately. Been under the weather a little and had to slow down to a crawl for a short time.

The vintage of the motor mount should be the stock in trade that Renegade sold in about 1987. The spacers were used to level the engine and give it an alignment because of carb/float/etc. reasons. Used the motor mounts to keep the transmission lined. The mounts should fit normally since I was using a 1987 Chev 350 Caprice engine. If the fittings on the water pump can be changed, do it otherwise double clamp it to prevent what Brad says, "One quick acceleration will blow the hose off". Did that!!!Reason for double clamping, remember I made the conversion when all we had was typed sheets of information and a lot if it was hearsay.

I still have a couple of your things so we need to arrange delivery.

I need a list of the things you need since I may getting out of the 914 business altogether. If I have to get rid of parts, I will give you what I have. This situation is still tentative so do not hold me to it, but I need the list.

Anything else?