I've done an engine drop with mepstein and brenz so I know how to do it (thanks for the practice car Mark). I want to do some minor work on the engine while its out of the car (oil cooler seals, valve adjustment) and change the transmission oil.

Prior to dropping the engine/trans do I:

1) Drain out all the gas or try to keep some in it?
2) If I need to keep some in it, do I add Stabil and run it a bit first (gas tank is just about empty since I want to drain it anyway prior to welding)? I don't want to have my injectors seize up.
3) Drain the oil?
4) Any need to manually turn the crankshaft? If so, how often?

The engine will be kept inside an unheated garage. The plan is to have it all back together by March.

Thoughts? Other things I'm missing?

Thanks,
Scott

Scott - Call me for an extra set of hands. Mark

PM'd

Common - no comments?

Scott - Here's my uneducated thoughts. 1. If your welding, get rid of the gas and drain the lines. Pull the tank and fill with marvel mystery oil. slosh around and leave in tank. Drain the oil, pull the spark plug, add a squirt of marvel oil, replace plug and turn the flywheel by hand every week or 2. 3. Big party in March!

I stored a 911 3.0L FI motor for 14 years and it is running great now!

I would leave the oil in it, blow out the injector lines to remove the fuel, remove the spark plugs and squirt some oil in each cylinder then reinstall the plugs. Lube all of the joints and rub all the metal areas with a bit of oil to prevent corrosion!

Then turn the motor at least once a year and make sure you keep it inside a dry garage or storage shed for the duration! Do not be afraid to add oil to the cylinders when turning it every couple of years!

StaBil makes a fogging spray exactly for the purpose of spraying into cylinders of a stored engine (reminds me - I need to do some yard tools...)
I have been told that air-tool oil is basically MMO - which is basically Stoddard solvent with dye and fragrance - but with some additional corrosion inhibitors. So that might be another option.

Condensation will be your big enemy - seal that up as tight as you can in multiple layers of plastic bags. Toss in some dessicant bags if possible.

Don't jinx a fellow teener with the "engine being stored for years" juju.... this motor is going back in by March.

I've used a marine product called "Stor N Start". You get the engine up to operating temp, and fog the engine with stor n start until it dies. I used it on my boat, so I had it on hand.

For boat storage, common practice is to change the oil, run the engine for a minute or so to circulate the fresh oil, then for gas engines it fog it. My diesel inboard is 24 years old, still running strong and looking good with a 4-5 month lay up each winter in damp Maryland.

I would use Stabil in any remaining/stored gas. Also cover the intake just to keep any critters out.

But in all sincerity, not talking that long of a layup.

Get some small tags and tag everything you disconnect so you will know exactly where it goes when the engine goes back in. How many threads have we seen where the question is " where does this wire go!"? Tag everything, wires, connectors, gas lines, vacuum hoses, etc. Make up a list of all of the tags also and where they go. I did that when I had my engine out, the puppy chewed one of the tags off and I didn't remember. Looking at my list, I was able to figure it out. I numbered every tag and then listed all tags by number and wrote what they went to. Two tags to every connection, one on the component and one on the removed part. For example: tag #1 fuel in from tank, tag#1 fuel in fuel rail. Yes, it is a bit of work, but when all is hooked back up and it runs first time, you will appreciate it so much!
I wouldn't wory about turning the engine over for that short amount of time. I would cover the intake and exhaust openings.
Tom