Hi Gang,

If you’ve got a rattling or leaking rear window fix it and fix it now. Leaks allow water to go straight down the firewall behind the back pad and it ends up sitting in puddles under your carpet. Ever wonder why they sell “rear half” floor pans? I just finished up installing the interior after re-installing my rear window. This procedure is fairly easy yet a bit more involved than it seems so I decided to do a Step-by-Step to help others understand what’s needed and what’s involved.

Tools and Supplies

 Regular Phillips Screwdriver
 Short Phillips Screwdriver
 17mm Socket and Ratchet or Open-End Wrench
 10mm Socket and Ratchet (for early models with fixed seat)
 .024 Gauge Electric Guitar String –or-Windshield Knife
 1” Putty Knife
 Butyl Tape (NAPA #4196)
 Electrical Tape

Step 1: Remove Interior Pieces. You’ll need to remove the interior pieces surrounding the rear window. This would be the top roll bar pad. The side roll bar pads and the back pad. Pop the little round access covers off to get at the screws. Use the regular and short phillips to get at everything. Remember, there’s screws on the bottom of the roll bar pad as well. The 17mm socket or wrench is used to get the seat belt bolts out which hold in the side pads.

If you have an early car with a stationary passengers seat, pull up the seat cushion from the rear and remove it. You should see (2) 10mm bolts toward the front of the seat. You’ll also have (4) 10mm nuts on either side of the seat bottom. Remove those and lift the seat bottom out of the car.

If you have a later car you simply slide the seats forward or remove them altogether for an easier job.

Now you’ll see 4 screws (2 on each side) at the bottom of the pad. You want to remove those as well. Don’t go yanking on the pad just yet, you need to remove the light (clips on the side) and disconnect the wires. You’ll also need to unscrew the engine lid release handle and unscrew the base for the handle. Now the pad should be ready for removal. Pull from the bottom and let the top of the pad slide down out of its retainers.

Now is a good time to clean up any loose vinyl (ever notice that vinyl and butyl are spelled really weird?). Water and age loosens up the adhesives on the back of the pad. Clean up any old adhesive and apply 3M spray trim adhesive to re-tack the vinyl down with.

Step 2: Remove the Glass. I’ve never had a problem removing the rear glass myself but others have needed the guitar string or a windshield knife. The window should basically pop inward toward the interior of the car. Position yourself inside the car and have a hand on the glass while you reach over the roll bar and push with the other hand. They usually pop right out. It’s not all that heavy but it is awkward so handle with care.

Step 3: Remove the Old Butyl Tape and Clean it all Up. Use a 1” putty knife to clean up the old butyl tape. If it’s old tape then it should be fairly stiff. This stuff usually comes out fairly easily. Be careful not to lose the rubber mounts that the glass sits on. There should be 2 rubber pads about 3” long and ¼” wide that sit on the shelf where the glass was. You’ll need these for the installation. Clean the glass and clean the area where the butyl tape was. I like a product called “Goof-Off” but there’s plenty of heavy duty cleaners and removers out there. Bug and Tar remover is basically the same thing. This is a great time to replace the window to engine seal. They’re about $45.00 so be prepared if you want to go this route.

Step 4: Install the Butyl Tape. I started in the passengers upper corner. If there were going to be a seam in my butyl tape I’d want it there. Water will have a hard time getting to that location. This stuff is sticky. The upper and side areas will be seen after the install so make sure you press the tape in evenly and smoothly. Press it directly into the corner of the mounting area.

Started...

Half Way There...

Step 5: Re-Install the Glass. This can be a bit tricky because the tape (as mentioned before) is quite sticky. First install the rubber mounts on the ledge the window will sit in. The butyl tape will help hold them in place. Make sure the glass is set back in at the proper orientation. For mine the VW logo was readable from the inside and just above and behind the drivers headrest. Make sure the glass is sitting on the rubber mounts and press firmly all the way around.

Step 6: Tape the Bottom Edge of the Glass. I used electrical tape just as the factory did. Use the rubber seal on the other side of the window as a guide and run the tape from edge to edge along the bottom. I used two rows to get the desired effect.

Step 7: Reinstall the Interior Pieces. Excellent time to do a thorough cleaning of the vinyl and carpets. Vacuum out those areas that have never been vacuumed etc. Enjoy your new watertight, rattle free view.

Yep
did this in June. Took about 2.5 hours with taking interior in and out.

easy job.

The butyl tape with the foam core is a better product to use. The old style melts in the hot sun, and the window can slide around. There is also a product that you can get at a glass shop that helps the tape bond to the glass and body. Clear for the glass, and black for the body, sorry forget the name but they will know when u ask them.

Thanks Eric for the great post- very timely for me since I removed the glass last week.

I have read your step 6 about the electrical tape mentioned in some older posts....but never understood it. What is the purpose? Do you wrap it around the bottom edge of the glass before installing the glass to the butyl? That doesn't seem right. Do you use it to tape the bottom edge of the glass to the body??? Why?? Is it simply cosmetic?

Tod- any better description than "butyl tape with foam core"?

Again, thanks guys.
-g

I went to a glass shop and the guy gave me the tape and the adhesive products to use. The butyl is a foam core with the sticky black stuff on the outside. I don't have the exact name, sorry. 1/4" I think I used. BTW nice job with the pictures Eric.

If you look at the picture in step 7 you can see how the back pad mates to the rear window. If you look at the picture in step 5 you can see the area that would be left exposed if you didn't run the tape. "I believe" the electrical tape was simply cosmetic in the sense that it will prevent one from looking through the rear window (from outside the car) and seeing "behind" the back pad. Let's face it, it's not going to stop any leaks. If it weren't there you would probably be able to see a bit of the cardboard and vinyl work on the backpad. From inside it cosmetically covers the butyl tape under the window. The sides and top are covered by the pads. There are areas (vents by the seat belts) that are visually open. The factory put a couple of vinyl pieces on the firewall to hide it in those areas as well.

Very nice posts on this job! Thanks! Most of my customers that come in, I can tap there rear window "Oh, looks like you could have that rear seal replaced." It is a straight forward job. I also usually wind up the seat belts as much as I can for people. Put a little more pull back into the belts. Once you do a few of them, you can do a clean seal replace and belt spring re-tension in under an hour no problem.

nicely written. just did it myself this summer, but could have benefited from seeing this before i did it!

ROOT, how does one tighten the seatbelts? if you wanted to write a post on that, you would have one very interested reader right here!

Piece-O-Cake.

There is not a good picture on this thread, so yeah, I will do a new thread on this some time, why not?

When you have the backpad off, you can get to both seat belt winders. Unwind them all the way until you reach the end of the belt. Hold the winder in place, it isn't very strong. Push the belt through the winder, as in back through. It might be sort of stuck in there a little, use a little screwdriver to help it if needed. You will notice a metal pin going through a loop at the very end of the belt you just pushed through. Remove it and pull the belt out of the winder. Wind up the winder being careful not too much! It will stop when you have reached the end of the spring. Normally I can get another 3-4 turns of the winder before the spring stops it. It isn't a fix for tired seat belts, but you just added more tension to them and it helps. Most of the time the seat belts almost, mind you almost go up by themselves!

Just something I do while I am in there sort of thing.

You won't find a good picture of retractable seatbelts in a 914-6

Oh get all technical on me now! Yeah, you won't find a rectractable seat belt on a 914-6 unless someone added it.

I used the 3M Windo-weld primer, part no. 08643, when i did mine a few years, actually several years ago. It says it "promotes adhesion of the sealer and helps protect the metal from rusting." Also can be used on the window. I made sure not to use too much on the window, just a strip as wide as the tape. no leaky yet.

charles

Ok, Root.....Say someone "accidentally" removed the cover on the seatbelt retractors, and the spring sprung all over the place.....how does it go back together? Best I can tell, the spring gets wound back on "against the grain" of its coil...Any tricks to getting this done, other than pitching them and getting new retractors???

Thanks Eric- I completely understand now and see t in your pictures. My window did not have any factory tape on ot when it came out.

jdogg- I know another guy who did the same thing as you!
My fingers were sore for a week as I was cussing myself for wanting to "see inside"!!!
I can't tell you exactly how I did it without opening it back up- and that is not going to happen!

It seems to me that you do have to wind it from the outside in and against the natural spring tension to get it to work.
Good luck. I feel for ya.
-g

Jdogg! What have you done!?

Yeah, prepare for sore fingers. I have done the same thing and if you are thinking like I am, the spring goes "against the grain" so to speak. It took me a couple of tries before figuring it out.

VW I think still makes the springs new? If it has sprung appart, might be worth checking out a local VW dealer and pop in a new one. I replaced both springs once, wow, seatbelts retracted, strongly I might add.

But I haven't done it since becuase of the time I spent winding the &$#@!*! springs back in. Make one slip and they look like spagetti.

Thanks for this thread, got my rear window resealed today. I got my new seat covers finally, had to have them special made and took the seats out to put them on. Hell, had the seats out might as well tackle the rear window. Had no problem getting the window out didn't need any knives or guitar strings, it just came out, don't know what the hell was holding it in place. So the window is now in and fits nice and snug. I used butyl tape to reinstall the window.

So tomorrow I will put the new seat covers on the seats and enjoy the ride. Glad this little project is behind me.

Why isn't this in the "Classic Threads" section?

It's a prefect 'How-To'

QUOTE (CptTripps @ May 26 2005, 08:09 AM)

Why isn't this in the "Classic Threads" section? It's a prefect 'How-To'

Because I've never seen it before!

Damned if I didn't use the search feature to perfection . I need to redo the one in my LE. I'll go buy the tape tomorrow. Thanks for the write up

Anyone know where the rubber that the glass sits on can be sourced. My car does not have them apparently, the glass is wedged in with some newspaper rolled up.

I looked at Mark's site, 914rubber.com, and saw some window setting blocks, but it looks like they're for the front windshield.

Don't know if they can be used for the rear as well. Maybe he'll see this thread and chime in? ... or you could PM him (mikey914)

http://shop.914rubber.com/product.sc?produ...mp;categoryId=5



Oh, and yeah, nice write-up Eric

13 years on, this is still a great how-to. Thanks, Eric!

Excellent how to. The setting blocks are just to ensure the glass doesn't contact the metal. It is possible to have it break as tempered glass can pop if the edge is hit.

I finally have the butyl and blocks.

And now I even have the glass....with tint if you like. As well as the polycarbonate one.

Id offer a $50 credit for some good pictures of one installed and some feedback on it.

This and the Sail vinyl are on my list so just doing research.

I did discover and to answer a question asked ... that the Front Window Blocks & the Rear Window Blocks are the same part #.
91454190710 Spacer For Windscreen
91454190710 Spacer For Rear Window

Yep, and factory retail at $8 each so we made them.

i want to install the Polycarbonate window into my street/race 914. Does anyone know if i would just simply use the Butyl to hold the window? any clips or brackets? Thanks.
(Car has stripped interior)

bookmarked for future reference

Got Poly in stock. Urethane or butyl will both work.
Mark

I had to laugh, I was only going to replace the outside rubber seal and draw a new bead of sealer on the bottom inside of rear window. When I removed the two side pads the window just plopped down, none of the original seal anywhere on the window's four sides was sealing anything. The old seal just pulled right off with zero effort needed.

Lesson - Just do it right and forget about any short cuts to sealing the rear window. These instructions are great and it's an easy project to take on.

Getting ready to remove my existing heated rear glass and replace it with a new to me heated rear glass. My original has slight scratches and I wanted a better glass.

Thought I would give this thread a look so I know what to expect. Getting help with this from Greg T. in Tracy. Looking forward to a nice rear glass, sealed, (mine was not secure at the bottom) and going to take the opportunity to add the hi-mount 3rd brake light under the roll bar. Very excited to get this all done and buttoned up.

Will try to get some pictures as we progress.

Be sure both surfaces are clean. Also, I doubt this would apply to your 914, I like to offer the glass up against the frame before rolling out the Butylene cord. This way you can check for high & low spots. Watch the width of the tape as pressure increases against the glass. If the glass was equidistant from the frame before then the butyl cord will be an equal width all the way around once the glass is seated. It's a piece of cake and you'll Ace it!

Sorry- should have mentioned we are going to use Urethane for the install. I have the electric gun a local shop let me borrow so it pushes out a nice ribbon. After the Butyl failed in about 1 year, I do not want to have to do this again.

OK, so here is the car with the upholstery out so we can do the glass tomorrow. Took about 1 1/4 hours to disassemble carefully.

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With the help of Greg T. in Tracy, we got the new hi-mount 3rd brake light and new to me heated rear glass installed yesterday. The 3rd brake light was not difficult, but before we embarked on actually installing the light I met up with Chris @tygaboy , at the Red Barn and he had a heavy duty heat gun we used to induce a slight curve into the light so it matched the curve of the Targa bar and fit perfectly. Thanks again Chris.

We used 3M trim tape to install it. The light is very light, weighs nothing really and the 3M tape is more than sufficient to hold it forever. No need to drill any holes to screw it to the roll bar. Once I clean up the car I will post pictures showing that light installed.

Butyl would be the easy install because you roll it out, place the glass, press and assemble. The Butyl does not really squish out anywhere as it essentially stays where you put it. The problem for me was the entire bottom of my glass was loose and it had only been in the car for approx. 3 years.

We installed this glass with Urethane. That window is not going to vibrate or leak now. We got a great seal all the way around.

Working with Urethane is another story entirely. This was more about laying a nice bead with the electric gun, placing the glass and pressing firmly. The Urethane kind of squishes out and then you need to clean all that off before the Urethane sets up. Greg and I worked together and got it done. Once cleaned up we re-installed the interior.

I have to tell you, I was a bit anxious when I saw the Urethane on the paint... but Greg was 100% correct, it cleaned up without a problem. My blood pressure dropped when I saw it cleaned up easily.

My brother came with me and we were joined by HB (2-914 owner). HB brought a cooler full of beverages and he and Bob relaxed and watched as Greg and I worked. We had a great day. Greg is a great guy and great teacher- I learned a lot as we worked and I really enjoyed that.

We took her for a ride and it was nice not to have that rattling glass noise behind my head. Today I will do a full clean on the car, finishing with a nice coat of wax. But first, I have to go return the Urethane gun to the shop that was kind enough to loan me one of their guns.

What is this insulation stuff? What keeps it there? Looks nice and modern. Does it work for the other side?

@stoneman30hotmail Thats just an off-shoot of Dynamat for sound deadening. It will stick where ever you put it.

OK, spent the day getting her cleaned back up and putting on a nice coat of wax. Here is the new hi-mount LED brake light.



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