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shuie
I need to repair the clutch cable tube in my car while the floors are out. The tube was already broken at the rear bulkhead and basically just fell out when I cut out the old floor pans. Everything is off of my car and I have full access to inside of the tunnel, so I'd like to get in there and do this right.

Is there a good repair kit available anywhere? Is there a good thread anyone can point me to that shows the repair process? I did a search of the forum and all I found were work around type solutions on driver cars.

TIA
SirAndy
Since it's normally not the tube itself that breaks, i'd go with a metal clamp around it in the front that is welded to the tunnel, a big washer around it in the rear to support the sheetmetal where the tube goes through the firewall and maybe another clamp in the middle where it goes through the little brace.

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shuie
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Dec 17 2011, 12:31 PM) *

Since it's normally not the tube itself that breaks, i'd go with a metal clamp around it in the front that is welded to the tunnel, a big washer around it in the rear to support the sheetmetal where the tube goes through the firewall and maybe another clamp in the middle where it goes through the little brace.

popcorn[1].gif


The tube is broken at the firewall. The firewall is completely mangled in this area. I can't imagine what would even cause this, I just assumed it was pretty common. pics...

IPB Image

IPB Image
dlee6204
I just did this on someone else's car. I welded in a new tube with some I ordered from McMaster-Carr. The original clutch tube is just over 1m in length. I bought 2m but you can probably get away with a 1 m section.

12 mm OD/ 9.5 ID Part #: 50295K24
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tubing/=feqsha

I used the old tubing to replicate the bend and I also made sure to flare the front of the tube just as the original. The clutch tube is secured in three places, the front, middle, and rear firewall. On this particular car, part of the center support was missing so I made a new piece making sure the shifter rod clears it. A nice tip is to insert a large round screwdriver into the end of the tube when welding it so that the bore remains smooth.

Sorry all I have are crappy cell phone pictures...
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

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rgalla9146
QUOTE(shuie @ Dec 17 2011, 01:12 PM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Dec 17 2011, 12:31 PM) *

Since it's normally not the tube itself that breaks, i'd go with a metal clamp around it in the front that is welded to the tunnel, a big washer around it in the rear to support the sheetmetal where the tube goes through the firewall and maybe another clamp in the middle where it goes through the little brace.

popcorn[1].gif


The tube is broken at the firewall. The firewall is completely mangled in this area. I can't imagine what would even cause this, I just assumed it was pretty common. pics...


If you can replace the pans, or have someone that can, then you can do the tube repair.
The bulkhead attachment fails after the forward mounts fail.
The fuel lines are already out which is very good. Carefully remove the tube from tunnel completely. Repair/weld the bulkhead cracks leaving a suitable hole in the right location for the tube. Carefully grind all attachment remnants from tube. Weld tube through suitable washer about 3/4" from end.
Weld washer end to inside of bulkhead. Fabricate suitable straps for forward attachments and weld. Walla !!!
shuie
I didn't realize RD made the rear bulkhead piece. I went ahead and bought one since the bottom 1-2" of the corners on mine need to be replaced in addition to the damaged clutch tube area. I'll reinforce the clutch tube area on the new part with some 1/8" plate so this kind of thing never happens again on the car.

I'll also be repairing my accelerator linkage tubing since I sliced through that when removing the floor blink.gif Does anyone have the OD & ID of that tube handy so I can order something from McMaster to replace it?

TIA
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