I finally cleaned out the car from the previous owner only after having the car for over 2 years

Only found a few coins and some small hand tools I can put to use, the rest went in the trash.

Also started to remove the small brackets that hold the backpad on. I'm going with carpet and want a cleaner look without the brackets.

Funny the places one finds rust!

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Still trying to get the Ghia finished. Replaced the front & rear shift linkage bushings and installed a quick-shift kit today, and it's not something I care to do again if I can help it.

Cleaned everything real good, painted a couple items, new grease where needed, and no more sloppy shifting

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My 74 just stopped shifting the other day. Put in a new cable hoping against hope that would do the trick. The old cable was frayed but sadly that was not the problem. Pulled the console, shifter and pad and watched the tube do a dance and was thankful that is was probably not a collapsed TO bearing. Cut the tunnel open above the front mount and discovered the entire tube had moved forward a couple inches. Judging by the rust the front mount had gone long ago. Worked it back as far as I could get it and welded the front down with a lot of extra weld and added a second weld along side the shifter. The rear mount I will weld when I take the car apart to repaint back to the original color. Shifts better than at any point since I have owned it. All in an afternoons cuss fest.

How did you cut into your tunnel? ... I need to cut into the rear section near the rear bulkhead to repair some 'mis-aligned' tubing issues on my '75

The metal is fairly thin so I use a Dremmel with a reinforced cutting wheel. Very narrow cut which is easy to close up.
I also put a bunch of sloppy wet rags all around the weld zone to keep the fuel lines safe.
Good luck

Took her off of jack stands, put air in the tires, fired her up and took a brief spin with the top down.

I went to San Clemente Cars & Coffee and there seemed to be a lot of Brits mulling about wanting 914s for shipment back to England.

Almost like they were on a mission....?

For 100,000 they can take mine........

Removed the rusted jack plate. Thanks to help from Kent.
We decided to leave the plate off and fix the rust permanently when I get the car painted.

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That looks so much better than what I did. I guess I need to redo mine. I’m too ashamed to show what I did.

Thats a fairly common area for rust as the moisture pools behind the sound deadening pad. Once torn down, my car had a small hole right through the firewall on the drivers side.

Did the last of the rust removal with the sawzall.... doesn't look quite as hellish now.
Ready to make templates for the replacement steel after I seal the surface rust left in the long for safe keeping.
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R&R'd the pass inner door handle. I'd let the lock mechanism become dirty and that extra drag eventually broke the handle. I'd just cleaned everything up and re-installed the previous week. Oh well, I had a spare and only took a few minutes.

Took a pic
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Duplicate. How in the h do you kill a post?

You are two steps ahead of me. I was poking around in my longs last night, through the rust hole in the bottom. Pulled out a big old mouse nest, fugger was crawling through the hole in the bottom! I will need to make some door braces before I cut the bad stuff out though, I am sure the car will start moving around in ways that I don't want.

If I was to do it over, I would have put the pump below the tank. Grass always looks greener next door

This was the area under what was left of the battery tray but the rest of my longs are in great shape.
Was this the same car Jamie and I was riding in at Rt66? Maybe we picked up a desert rat on the cruise!

Yes same car. The passenger side heater tube was completely filled up with dog food when I first bought the car. The mice had made a home there for a while. It smelled like a hot pet store when I welded in the inner long stiffeners.

This is my first post after checking out all the notes and photos since buying a 75 - 2.0L motor complete rebuild, then stainless gas lines, driver seat pan, new seat covers, dash, door panels, and the list goes on.
After new shoes, see the rear side walls supper tight to the fenders,
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Your situation depends on a couple of factors.

1. If those Riviera wheels have the back-spacing for a VW Bug, Ghia, etc., they sit out further, closer to the fender lips.

2. Tire width - if you went with 205/65, or even 205/60, different manufacturers' tires vary in actual width.

I try to run wheels with the correct back-spacing and I don't run anything wider than 195/65-15.


The only other thing you can try is to roll the fender lips ...


... and

Glenn & I had a play date. 4742913130 was parted out. Lots of serious rust issues and filler. Saved as much of the good metal that we could, the rest going to the scrap yard tomorrow.

The great junk 914 hunters and their prey.

I replaced the rear brake flexible hosed from the chassis to the control arm.

I highly recommend doing that should you have your engine out.

It is quite a PITA with the engine in.

Finished fabricating a tray and cover to accommodate the fuel pump and filter. Next, gotta pull the tank and re-route a couple of hoses

^Wow Jim, show quality right there.

I made my own battery tray out of some thick panel steel,made a front section to mount my Permatune nicely out of the way,made the tray to fit my compact race battery and the next size up which is the size used in 'jump packs' and small cars.
I bolted it to the body with SS bolts so I can get to stuff underneath....most likely find rust in the future .
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looks great!! boxster spare? i think thats what i will do when i get my car back from paint.

Yup, with the inner piece that holds the jack and handle. Find a shop that converts Boxster to spec cars; they toss out the spare and tool kits. I found several on eBay

I did a #3 cylinder pushrod tube extraction. Turns out my orings are not Viton so I have to wait until tomorrow to re-install and carry on with the rest.

I hope to be done working in these tight quarters soon.

Very clean! I am leaning toward putting the battery tray back in the original location rather than the trunk.

Made up some door braces today and got them tacked into place. I had to sacrifice my upper seat belt bolts, as the shoulder was a smidgen to wide to fit through the 1/2" heim joint, I put those fuggers in the drill press and used a file to get them the right size. For the bracket I made these out of 1x3 rectangular tube.

Nice that I can close the doors and not even have to take the door cards and handles off!

Bought a print to hang in the garage from one of our own members here.
(Optimusglen, aka Glen)

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Placed car on my little dolly...rolls rather easily.

Wife will be surprised I placed it in our back patio...oh well..doubles as a carport.

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Sir Oscar, we can use that orange project as a table if we do a fellowship in your beautiful patio.

Oscar: "Hello, Dolly! Well, hello, Dolly!"

Oscar's wife, after he gets it moved back into the garage: "It's so nice to have you back where you belong!"

Man, I crack myself up...

Click Me!

I drove it!Click to view attachment

The V8 car? ... Looks like a sleeper now

I drove Elwood to a Porsche club get together at Mayo Performance. Then I brought home a friend with a 912E and helped him with his speedometer. It wasn't working right, and we replaced it with a spare I had. He has some really bad electrical issues.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 76 912E?

Eddy and I met up with Jerry for a morning drive.

Two V8's and my black 2.0 74


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went from this to .....

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To this!


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I've practice on five doors before doing this....
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In a nut shell, here's the dimensions to finding the holes from outside.
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I've taken pics of doing the first five doors
Got the hang of it,
Can do under 10 minutes.

I will put together step by step what's involve....

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I believed inside the door has a factory welded screw and just need to drill it if you wanted to add right door side mirror.

True, two easy ways. Drill up thru welded nut inside the door with a small drill to mak a pilot hole. Choose a size just smaller than the I’d of the threads. Then drill your clearance hole from a be outside. Second way is to use an ice pick from the inside to make a small center punch mark from the inside. Then centerpunch from the outside and drill the clearance hole till you just reach the nut. Viola!

Welded up patches in the rear tail panel. Let me say I am going to be a real good grinder by the time I am done with this welding stuff.

I fixed an engine oil leak. Oil pressure switch on top of engine was leaking where center plastic is crimped inside the aluminum body. Took out the old one with a 1 inch deep socket and long needle nose pliers. Put new one in with a smear of thread sealant and a 22mm deep socket. Had to lower it down into place and start the threads using the long reach needle nose pliers. Also investigated the cursed L jet sticky throttle. Seems to need a shim washer now to center the throttle plate in the bore. Also suspect the extra spring causes the shaft to wear in the TB. May get it rebuilt with the ball bearings.Click to view attachment

you are correct
those drill holes are exploratory drilling,
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I then drill holes a bit bigger then tap