Finished up the plumbing on the used 1.7 engine for the wife's 914, I did all the PR seals adjusted the valves, oil filter, cleaned the sump screen, new fuel lines, new rubber intake elbow, etc.
Fingers crossed but this was a running engine.

I didn't paint the tin, etc., as this is likely a temporary engine. I'll build a new engine for it when I have the time.
Maybe a 2.0... maybe bigger

Dropped the engine for cleanup and swap into GT-flared car.

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Got it off jack stands after about two years. Tend to forget how low the car is. More to do still but the progress is there.
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Hood, Headlights & Grill

Put 914 on rolling road at Rawspeed in Plymouth. Around 130bhp at 5200rpm and 115ftlb torque from 3500 to 4500rpm. Makes over 100ftlb from 2700 to 5300rpm - a nice flat torque curve!

https://www.facebook.com/keith.seume/videos...59502615594768/

Sounds great

Bob B

Had mechanic install xr700 electronic ignition

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Took the '71 to a local P car (especially AC'ed) C&C in Scottsdale. Were actually several 914's there.

Starting to plan the car's 50th birthday party this coming September as it is a 9/70 build. Appropriate to do it on the 14th- will have had 50 great years with that car!!

Worked on fan/defrost indicator lights originally two were working, now 3 are might have one bad socket will test with my meter when I get back into it.

Yesterday it was a balmy 58 degrees here in Salt Lake so I got to drive it! Today I woke to a foot of snow.

I ordered the newly listed sun visors from 914rubber

Put license on front with frameClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

Making progress on replacing the rear panel and part of the boot floor...
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Wired up the CHT Dakota Digital gauge, raffle win from Okteenerfest this past year.
Eventually it will be moved to the center console once I make a new custom gauge plate for 4 gauges and the seat heater buttons.

Hi where did you put the lambda sensor? Any pics?

the A/F meter O2 sensor(Lambda) is in the back center between 2 collectors on the Triad dual tip exhaust. I will be under the car this weekend trying to get my suspension cleaned up and adjusted so I will take a pic for you and post it.
its reading 22.9 because I just turned the key to first position for lighting up the gauges. I have an extra CHT meter with sensor and wire long enough to go from #3 spark plug to the console, will be posting it in the classifieds today.

I need to take a better picture and orient it correctly, sometimes I forget iPhone does that.

Phil

Came home after escaping Seattle's crappy January weather to start up the 914 on the first try and off to the store. Love that Djet FI

New Seats!

Those seats look nice and comfy.

Aligned brake light switch arm to washer so brake lights don't stay on.

Put a new sterro and speakers, with Alexa and SiriusXM, into the '74.

Got the flywheel of for the '75 resurfaced and will be installing the new main seal and clutch this weekend.

Are those the stock 914 seats modified by Renegade?

Greg W.

They are! They are re-done 914 seats by renegade. I went this route to keep the seats low to the floor, plus I liked the look of them.

tried to replace passenger door hand with new repo from 914 rubber. Tumber is to tight in housing and the key will not turn. Took it out put it back in the od one and it slides right in pulled it out and use the same orientation and its still to tight. Key will not tun even with the tumber sticking out 1/4 in. Any body have an extra tumble i
I can get from you?

Just put new carpet on the frunk bulkhead , one more thing done getting ready for Amelia Island and Werks 2020!
- next up tire board and then the sail panels
- last thing to do is get the new Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires mounted on the 7” Fuchs for rear tomorrow, and raising up the rear suspension one notch, added the tow down hooks from 914werke and I think I am ready to go.
Rear as it sits is actually 2degrees neg camber , measures with digital meter today so I may not mess with it unless going up one click decreases camber at all. If it does I then will go back and take out a shim or 2.

Here is the location of the O2 sensor for my A/F
@kroelofasen

Anticipated taking off rocker covers, reattaching trans shift rod cover, and degreasing bottom of engine/tranny. Apparently, this one sits lower than my last, so I had to go buy a low profile floor jack.

With limited time left in the day, I just ended up "rooting around" in the driver's side floorboard to both take a look at the floor & try to discern if my accelerator pedal is Sticky due to the assembly or the throttle cable. Me thinks it's just the cable. Included some generic pics.. the car is new to me....thus the interest in random pics.Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Many thanks!

New tires, polished the wheels, -7” Fuchs for rear! Before putting these on good time to get ride height set , clean up the wheel wells ,
Set rear brake clearance etc.

Tried selling these a few times but just too nice to let go cheap so putting them back on! Your loss my gain, glad I didn’t sell them

Adjusted the shifter and lowered the front ride height.

"vaguebooking"...

I think I will be doing this as well in a few days, I am interested in how far you dropped your front and how it looks now, did you take a few before/after pictures, or measurements? how many turns? and is it counterclockwise(out) to lower? and after dropping, any bump steer? are the tie rods now level or do you have angulation and did you have to use a bumpsteer kit to lower the rack to get proper alignment?

Thanks for sharing!!

@AZBanks

Finally got a brake with the weather to roll my 914 out for the first time this year and take a ride. Still cold here in Pennsylvania. I've learned that my 914 Carb Car, if it sits a long time in really cold weather waiting for a good day it will start but you have to apply throttle slowly to keep it running while driving until it warms up. Not a bad problem and the more I drive it the problem goes away eventually and runs normal. This is not a major issue to me but it took a while for me to get use to braking it in so to speak. Have to Heal Toe when Braking or Shifting gears. It's an interesting experience driving a air cooled car in freezing temp.

Same thing I have done for the last 90 days, ignored it.

Edit: LIAR! I moved it 1 foot so I could put our emergency generator behind it.

I'll take some pics this evening and post them up. I haven't noticed any bump steer in the few short drives I've taken. It does feel more planted around the slightly off camber round-abouts near my house.

I completed installing my fuel system.
Cleaned and painted fuel tank. Installed Stainless Steel fuel lines.
Installed fuel filter and pump and all associated lines.
Ready to test the system

Onward thru the fog.

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Is that harness for Microsquirt? Where did you end up placing the ECU. I need to get started. Looks very clean harness.

@Rikyrat

Nice setup but one thing to fix here. The make AN flare adapters for tube that do not require welded fittings.

It will fix this issue the could and most likely will leak.

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Like these just for reference

Si, Gracias.

I'm coordinating with @Montreal914 (his build thread here) and should have it running in a couple weeks, depending on available time. Drivetrain going back in, next.

If someone wants to sell a kit I'll give them all the design info (including detailed harness specs), otherwise I'll do a full write-up on the design with pics, parts list, and instructions so others can replicate it.

I'm looking to be into it for less than $1500 plus time.

Here are the pics now that I've lowered the front.

This is how it looked the day we picked it up. Nose in the air.

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This is how it looks today

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This is how the torsion bar caps look now. They are the same on both sides.
I don't know why the picture is upside down. If you click on the image it will show up with the correct orientation.


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Lower for sure, looks good! Mine looks like your before picture, I am wondering how many turns to lower that much? How’s it feel driving? My fear is bump steer increase. I guess the goal is fairly level tie rods. Are they level now? I will be doing this soon, and I was going to raise the rear a bit but that decreases camber and I don’t want that, so seems it would be better to lower my front some it is front high a bit too much.
- thanks
@AZBanks

Here are the suspension and tie rod angles. Everything is basically level.

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In the picture of the torsion bar cap, you can see the the end of the cap attached to the bolt is up about as far as it will go without hitting the metal around it. It was in the middle of the range and now it is up near the top. To go any lower I would need to re-index the torsion bar. I didn't want to do that and I am happy with where it sits now.

I didn't count the turns and honestly, I turned it the wrong way to begin with and had the front WAY up in the air.

It drives a lot better. It feels more stable and I didn't feel any bump steer.

Thanks! Last question , counter clockwise to lower?

Yes, If you are under the bolt looking up at it, counterclockwise to lower the car. You want the end of the torsion bar cap connected to the bolt to be moving up vertically toward the top of the car. The end of the torsion bar cap goes up and the car goes down.

This picture is upside down as well.

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Phil, Pelican sells a bump-steer kit, and it isn't that expensive or hard to install ... https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELR...MRoCRxwQAvD_BwE

thanks for the tip Mark. I will see once I lower it some how things align with the tie rods etc. It could be that the original alignment was done before my larger wheels and I had smaller 15" then 14" fuchs and lower profile tires, so then I went back to stock diameter with the 16" rims and this could be why I seem high on front end. I will lower it, see how it fits and aligns then go back at rear and look how it effects it.
The rear is currently at 2degrees neg camber both sides with shims. if I remove shims it will be even more negative. If I raise up the rear I also will take some of the camber out, and can get some back by again removing a few mm of shims. if the rear goes down it will add camber which may help with tire clearance for the 205/55 wheels. if I am neutral they just will be too close so I need to have that 2degrees camber at least.

once I see how all that works I can see how it all handles. That alignment was done by a Porsche performance shop here right after having all the new a-arms and turbo tie rods installed.

UNBOXING... nicely packed for its cross-country trek
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I've been wanting one of these for a long time
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sweet!! did you get the chrome tip covers too?? and I see you have the O2 sensor location same as mine. you will like that set up I think.

look forward to seeing it in a few weeks,