more prep, stuff to do, like put in some newly replayed parts , and my new stickers. but this means i adjusted the rear trunk alignment and the engine compartment lid. not a quick job.
new front trunk latch.

@DrPhil914 that door sticker came out great, was that the one from Car-bone?

Worked on the headlights on the GT car, cleaned up the ground stud behind the bucket a bunch using a dremel and a tiny brass wire wheel, it made it better but the when I connect a headlight on the drivers side its still obviously under powered. Might have to replace the headlight plug next, anyone have this problem before?
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Yes, they came from Car-bone. has the exact imprinting and the circular cuts that make it almost impossible to remove with out ruining it.

I will get the rest of the stickers later but only one in the US that has the door jam compliance sticker is AASE and its 2x as much and I bet they get it from Car-bone anyway, took less than a week and I had it here from Poland!!

I wanted them before Amelia Island and Werks reunion. Very happy with it.

Phil

Hi Eric9144 - I am sure you already did this but did you try swapping the headlights side to side just to be sure it's a car problem and not a headlight problem?

Yes, I did try that. Problem is @ the bucket not the headlight itself.

Made it to Amelia Island after running in the rain and dodging tornados

It was sunny and almost warm so I drove up to see RichD at 914Werke to BS and see if he still had that bronze shift console bushing. Met Alan too..

drove it to work and post office Later I will set the idle down cause when the mechanic advanced the timing after installing elec. ignition he said probably needs to be done, Idles at 16 what would be best?, 11-12?

My previous 1.8 FI only within 850 and 900 rpm on idle.

Took the top off and drove it all over town.

Drove it to work Thur and Fri. FUN. also set the idle up just slightly.

Had a similar issue when i swapped to LEDs, found the wire orientation in one of the headlight plugs was incorrect.

I'll check that next, cleaned up the metal in the plug sockets and re-assembled so I could drive it!

Took it over to AAA to add it to my classic policy, will be real curious how they react on the agreed value part.

Left there and did an unintentional burn out onto the freeway at the traffic meter Then took the twisty way home

stopped by PMB booth to visit Eric Shea and the group, went to C&C Amelia to display the 914 and drove it to new Brumos Museum!

Adjusted the engine lid latch, was sticking and generally crappy to unlatch. Then just admired the 3.8
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Managed to crush the contact housing for my flexfuel/e85 sensor when I put the engine back into the car. Ooops.... Ordered a new one so some cable crimping might need to take place later this week.

Drove her around for about an hour, let my 38 yr. old son drive it (the one who said, after taking a 35mph turn at 60 in my first Cayman 8 years ago, "HOLY COW DAD! You know what this car just said to me? 'IS THAT ALL YOU GOT?!?' " ).

Sadly, he spent most of the time trying to learn how to shift between 1st & 2nd, as he's only good with 5-speeds with a synchro 1st gear.....

Then came home and changed the oil.....Valvoline VR1.......

GN

Tried, again, to fix my 74 headliner from flopping in the wind... most annoying

Sunday took the car to a car show, did not win, the original class was won by 50s cars

Changed the center caps on my six from phoenix red to silver/chrome, washed her & went for a drive

looks good! Now, bring it to TN in September!!! ( Okeenerfest coming back to TN again- I think that's the last time I saw you, was at Townsend Tn)
- I like the other center caps better btw

I had them the matching phoenix red but my creamsicle has polished stainless, Brutus the 916s' are shiny & Larry Phillips gorgeous Gulf tribute are also shiny centers so I'm giving it a try. Seems more period correct for my wannabe 916

Switched everything to spokeworksled.com today honestly
one of the most impacting changes you can make:
The only before, not even euro divided into two sections:
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afters:
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@Spoke thank you for what you've brought to the 914 community!

Rebuilt spare pedal assembly. Now for the swap...

I have been working on the cold Air Intake for Carerror. Today I was fitting the mock-up of the right side scoop trying to get the shape and fit correct.

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Carerror's build thread is in the Paddoc.

The big ass scoop is going in just infront of the rear wing.
I'm just trolling for more viewers as my thread is just about to hit 15,000 viewers…

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My wife owns you're lost stable mate. Click to view attachment

Oscar

Finished off my LED conversion by swapping out the flasher relay on the fuse panel

Got a box of stuff from 914 Rubber to try to knock out some of the the odds and ends that need to be fixed. Glad I have some parts to keep me entertained for the next couple days, sounds like most of SoCal is in social lock down.

Trying to refresh the intake/FI system. Finished taking off the plenum(damn you slot head screws!) and cleaned up the engine tin and top of case. I still have a lot of cleaning to do, but this thing had a ton of dirt, grease, & general debris on it. Also need to sand/grind the surface rust off the battery tray.

I wanted to know if anyone has ever sprayed/poured anything into the plenum and let soak to remove the grime that has settled on the bottom? Same question for the runners? Finally, I'm seeing what look to be some hairline cracks on the top of the case. Does this look normal or concerning? EDIT: I think they're just imperfections in the case.Thanks !

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i think mine looked worse than that when i first bought it and had to clean it all up too. yes i would spray degreaser inside and out and then check for any rust holes that could cause you vac leaks . you should be fine, lots of elbow grease but worth the trouble. lots of these look like that when they’ve been sitting for years and never cleaned up.

Copied factory parts to fabricate a hand throttle for my GT project.
Cut up a heat control lever and welded it to copy shape of throttle lever.
(temporary green plastic for bushings)
Welded long 4mm bolt to length of brake tubing, welded solid rod into other end.
Fabricated rod support from small piece of 90 degree scrap.
Welded 'wing' onto throttle belcrank at pedal cluster for rod to push against.
Still need to find a ball to weld to new throttle lever.
First photo shows reshaped lever on right
Almost done

I would suggest that if you have the ability to weld up the two sides of the intake plenum. This is now standard practice for me anytime I refresh a system as I've had multiple cars that leaked there.

Any of the 'Foamy Bright' water soluble de-greasers work good on that grime, although you might get a variety of stiff bristle brushes to help (including tooth brushes). Spray, soak, brush, spray again, then hose down with high pressure water ... then air blow dry.

What appear to be cracks are just mold slag, nothing to be concerned with. You can grind/file them down if it makes you feel better. I did on a few cases.

914 Rubber sells a nifty kit of stainless steel Allen bolts if you hate the cheese-heads. That's all I use any more

Mark,

Thanks for the advice. I've got an order to place at 914 Rubber, and their allen heads are definitely on the list. Thinking about hitting the runners with a long flexible brush to get all the soot /grime out. Thanks to @DRPHIL914 and @dlee6204 as well.... all good advice. On a separate note, Doug I'll take a set of those aluminum rocker covers....beautiful work!

Well I haven't done squat with my 914 in quite some time other than gingerly drive it to a few local events. I'm trying to get back into gear (pun intended) and make further progress before summer.

During my last couple track events I had tremendous difficulty with shifting, mainly 2-3 but it was not consistent. Now I know why.

First I found a seal/bushing in the base of my ancient 1st-gen Rennshift had slipped out of place and partly jammed the shift lever itself. I've had several issues with this Rennshift unit so it's not going back in the car, can't trust it.

Then I found a totally destroyed bushing at the trans end. Chunks fell out when I removed the cover. Luckily the firewall and other rear bushing are good/newer.

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Slamming thru the gears again huh Chris?
Me? I just washed the 914 as it was sunny out and not too cold (42) plus the underside of the engine/tranny.

Installed a new Odyssey AGM battery today. Had to make a custom hold-down for it as it’s much smaller than the old school battery it replaced. Hopefully it lasts a good long time.

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Hmmm ... that cup bushing looks like it's made from a pliable rubber, not hard plastic

https://www.instagram.com/p/B92JG43FPog/

Started it first time this year !

Mats...sounds great my friend

Oscar

Dream about if i will ever get it running with Corona virus cancelling everything in sight

914 Quarantine is fun
Replaced some rubber stuff, took the wheels off to check out the brakes and see what I had going on in there, front's have brake ducts I didn't know about
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Yes but once its back on the ground the really though choice will have to be made.
Which keyfob should I run this season?

I have been working on the Cold Air Intake for Carerror. I posted some new pictures on her build thread oer in the Paddock.

I've only been able to watch the '74 get rained on for the past week or ten days.....

Swapped out the OE Frunk seal with the 914 rubber version. The OE one wasn't bad per say but with the glued sections etc, compared to the 914 Rubber re-pop it's not nearly as good.

They do make bigger tarps...

It only leaks into the cabin. The rest is solid (I get the joke btw, just being a smart a$$)

Hit one of the runners with some 80 grit. Kind of like the look. Thinking of clearing the runners and painting the base matte black.

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Thought I would try again to work on the high idle. Hot it would idle at about 1350, that was with the idle screw on the throttle body totally closed. I was thinking it may just be the nature of the beast. I believe Raby recommended setting the idle for the 9590 cam at > 1000 anyway.

I had checked all the vacuum hose connections and was sure everything was tight.

I am running the 123 ign dizzy for d-jet and had it programmed to the "2" setting with the vacuum line hooked to the advance port on the throttle body.

I remember Rob @BeatNavy write about using the "B" setting and hooking up the Vac retard port on his engine. This seemed to work good for him. but since we have different ECU I used the "2" setting.

So I switched them around and am also using the "B" setting and vac retard and I have an adjustable idle now.

With plenty of adjustment room using just the idle screw on the throttle body. and am able to further fine tune it with the knob on the ECU.

It just keeps getting better and better...