Congrats, Ravi! ... you're gonna love it.

It took me 3 years to get my first 4-post lift assembled at the shop ... but it was due to extenuating circumstances (recovery from a few surgeries took a long time)

Jaime ( @oldschool ) shot some footage of the lift assembly portion of the August 2012 event,


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=/C1WYx5iTMd8



... and here's the carb clinic footage: https://vimeo.com/48278551

Huge congrats!

You'll think you've died and gone to heaven - at least as far as working on your vehicles - and wonder how you ever got by without it.

Had my asymetrical 10k lb. lift for 7 years, and love it.....gets a lot of use by family & friends too, which I love......

GN

This reminds me of when I was a kid. My Dad, on a Sunday morning took me to get some firewood from the side of the Parkway. He lowered the convertible top on the Skylark and we loaded the back seat and took it home. Thanks for that!

Drove some back roads I had never been on before. Stopped for a photo op.

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Currently installing a new clutch cable and throttle cable. Have everything disconnected, just need to give my shoulders a rest from the cramped position at the pedal assembly.

I know what you mean. I just did mine too. While I was under there, I thought about unbolting the pedal assembly to hook up my cables, but decided against it and suffered thru it.

DROVE it to work, picked up groceries and post office Click to view attachment

I think the previous owner was a little hard on the gas pedal...or he kept foot on pedal when he wrecked the car, signs of front end impact up front.

Luckily in my pile of nuts and bolts I had a replacement rod.

This cable I used for my throttle , is it a /6 cable? I noticed it is threaded on both ends. Will it make my car faster?

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Rolled the car out of the garage and washed the dust off it

The pups enjoying the day, puppies first experience with a hose

How hard is it to replace the throttle cable? When starting up for the first time daily it seems a little stuck

newbie DIY guy can do it. It goes out to the rear by the firewall.

Not bad, in a nutshell you: pop off cable from pedal pivot>remove ball socket and retaining nut>optional to tie small string to old cable while still in car>disconnect cable from FI or carbs>pull out near bottom of engine firewall>Installation reverse order more or less.

Marc,
I remember that event fondly. That is where is truly understood how great the 914 community is to help each other.

Worked on an old fan shroud for a six cylinder motor. Need to repair the German phenolic plastic shroud. I’m in a quandary what’s the best repair, do I use Fiberglass.?



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I didn't watch the guys at our shop do the work but I believe many times they would glass in a small piece of flat sheet steel with the appropriate shape and build it up with a bit of glass to make it invisible.

Chris, I believe those bushings should be put in dry no grease or very little they get destroyed that way if I remember correctly...!

Marc

Thanks for the info, I was going to use Fiberglass probably rough it up with 80 grit and try not to make too hot of a batch.

Marc

Congratulations Ravi. You're going to have a lot of new friends showing up.

I fitted a seat adjuster handle to the passenger seat to replace the original factory one that had been moved to the driver seat ( the one that breaks because it is used more ! )

Here's the part supplied by Sierra Madre , its pretty chunky weighs quarter pound , and has chunky 6.5mm bolts to secure it .

I googled how to get the (passenger) seat out for a '75 car .....you need to know about the retaining spring plate....and after it was out I had to drill bigger holes in the metal channel that the seat adjuster handle bolts to , existing holes are about 4mm wide .

All went together and good to go !Click to view attachment

Pulled the engine to replace a timing belt and water pump, tidy up a couple small leaks... Still debating a smaller turbo for autocross.

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Engine actually sits over on a lot more of an angle in the car. single mount on the front right of engine allows it to pivot when sitting down.

delete

Drove it to work and walmart, parked near 2 Corvettes and fancy Camaro far from the storeClick to view attachment

Your timing my friend, is impecable. My son just broke the handle a week ago on my drivers seat - I pulled the seat and fashioned one out of #4 bare Cu. wire that is working fine, but was wondering where I'd ever find a replacement as they are riveted to the steel rail hinged on the seat rail.

Ordering mine from Sierra Madre soon - I'm a past customer.....

GN

Put in "new to me" 050 distributor to replace my old 231 178 009 with the flat spot - but cannot set spark at TDC and get engine to run......so I posted a detailed request for help on its own thread........

Can't wait to get the 050 working and seeing how much better my 2.0 will run.....

GN

I was going to put a new master cylinder in it.

The hardline going to the front passenger caliper refused to come off at the MC so I had to cut the line, luckily I bought a set of new brake lines.

Then when I finally removed the partial line from the bango fitting a bunch of the steel threads decided to stay inside the brass part.
I tried to remove them with no luck so I put an ad.in the classifieds.

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@mueller

I have one if you text me 262 364 74twosix your info I will drop it in the mail

spent a few hours tidying up the engine compartment, installed the new AAR with new hoses and tool a closer look and inspected all the other vac hoses, had to recheck decel valve hose connections, tightened up hose clamps, eliminated a couple small vac leaks then rechecked timing and did a final tune adjustment to MPS i rebuilt, went for test drive,. i am really close, WOT is perfect , part load is just a bit lean i think, so this may go just a bit more rich. it idle is about perfect, no more bucking. it’s ready for a road trip but this shelter at home thing sucks. i just found out i will be on admin leave for 2 weeks, out till now we’ve been working.

next up fix the issue with the relay/LED lights problem.

Today shot the rear end of my 914 in epoxy primer after applying filler and sanding for many days, major step forward...
The rear panel and rear part of the floor have been replaced.
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moved the ground wire for the fog light relay to isolate it from headlight switch circuit and in doing so eliminated the issue with LED headlights staying on high beam when fogs were on. pretty easy fix!

Still tuning my MPS, a bit on the lean side.

Make a road trip up here to KY and I'll take you for a tour of Buffalo Trace, if they're still open to the public!

Looks great!

4 of us took a little ride today in our eclectic group, using proper social distancing of course.


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Nice variety of automotive engineering assembled there

I finally got around to removing the Zenith 40 TIN carbs from my 2.7 L Chev Corvair engine - so as to install longer mounting studs and 4.8mm thick phenolic spacers beneath the carbs.

While carbs are off will also check what jets etc are in it - running much too rich at cruise.

Tempted to put the 34mm venturis back in instead of the recently installed 30mm venturis - so as to reduce air velocity through the venturi and hence lean out the mixture somewhat.

Regards

DaveO

For your comparison, my 2.7 L 911 engine has Webers and O2 sensors (with A/F mixture gauge) in each header for tuning. The carbs have the following: 34 venturi's, 140 mains with 180 air corrections, and 60 idles. A/F's are 12 at idle (800rpm) and range from 12.5 up to 14 under all accelerating and cruising conditions.

Got the bumper back on and working on the alignment of the new Spoke fogs... it's kind of strange, the DS side fog seems to be slightly 'back' compared to the PS side, not sure what that's all about, the brackets and mounting surfaces below seem fine.

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Then I went for a spirited drive on some back roads before the rain started, going to rain all week here

It's been really slow at the shop so I've been tinkering with my '75 Red car. In the past week or so I got the wiring harnesses on, installed a Bosch fuel pump and fuel lines, installed the gas tank, reset the distributor drive gear, installed throttle, clutch and speedo cables, put a battery in and finally got it started today. Broke in the cam and cleaned up. Done for today!

I've had this car for a little over 4 years and got it in pieces, so It's nice to finally have a running car. Still have a bunch of stuff on the list, but have made some good progress lately. Need to button everything up and see why the idle is so high, then probably move on to the 5 lug conversion, go thru the brakes and put the interior back together. Hopefully It'll be on the road soon!

Replaced my frayed clutch cable after reading all the posts on this great forum. Click to view attachment

As I just posted on my 050 Dizzy thread, I got the engine running Sat. night on a static set of timing, but couldn't do a strobe timing of it until almost 5pm tonight, and then couldn't drive it until about 7.

I have a whole new engine! Turns out so many problems I was having were not the carbs at all, but the 009 dizzy - as many have alluded to previously.

My old 62k mile 2.0 is running stronger than I ever dreamed it could, and I am one happy "Teener"......It's not perfect yet, but we are getting close.......

GN

awesome !! cool!! way to go!!

i did a few things!!

i did a few things!!

I was able to build a spare set of pedals

Brant -

Looking great....spare?

BTW, good place for me to ask: does anyone make a longer clutch pedal? One with a longer rod?

I am really short, with even shorter legs (if any shorter, they wouldn't reach the ground)....I have no problem with seat 1/2 way back reaching brake or accel pedals, but clutch is just too far away & makes me pull the seat to far forward for comfort - and I have it backed out on the threads as far as I dare go with it......

It not, I may just weld a 2" section in the existing rod......or an adjustable section.....1" might be enough.....

Or even easier, I may use a coupling nut to connect the existing clutch rod with a bolt inserted in the clutch pedal mount from the bottom/rear - if I can find one in the same metric thread.....

GN

Another slow day, so I attempted to bleed the brake system. Found p/s rear steel line flared incorrectly (leaking). So I made a new one and installed it. Continued on to the driver side rear and no fluid... Looked a little further and found the flex hose to be collapsed inside. Both rear hoses were replaced and are dated 2010, so i ordered both rear hoses for tomorrow.

BTW, this is what we use to bleed and flush brake hydraulic systems. Click to view attachment
Works great every time! BG PF7. One man job.

Took my girlfriend of 47 years out for an ice cream date after supper tonight with about 20 miles of twisties each way to get there........

We just love dates in the 914 - she's running really strong but needs just a bit more tuning....but gotta adjust the valves first......

But we just did a totally spontaneous Saturday date in the Blue Ridge Mtns. in the Cayman S, 200 miles of bright sunny warm mountain views & turns.......

We are so blessed with 2 mid-engine Porsche's, and can't decide which is more fun.......

GN

i am sure for the 200 mile trip the Cayman is best of both worlds, but if you are going for 50 mile drive in the mountains on the twisties the 914 has to be the way to go!! nice problem to have- been kind of looking at Caymans too, but that means getting rid of my Maserati, not sure i am ready to do that yet.

Roughed in the uprights for the rear wing on AR-14. All of these parts need deburing a finishing.

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It is just sitting there as none of the bracketing is done yet.