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JOEPROPER
QUOTE(cassmcentee @ May 17 2020, 06:35 PM) *

Those look nice! wub.gif
cassmcentee
Thanks!
I'm learning the Porsche Engineer's mindset and am diggin' it...
Shoutout to the Pelican Parts Tech Articles!
Still going to Media Blast the piston "tops", sides are polished. need to polish the interiors...
One more for "Brake Porn"
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DRPHIL914
very busy on the 914 past few days, i guess i have t posted for a while here, been posting more on instagram, easier lol!

well, i needed chase the oil leak, and change out the transmission fluid so i did all that and while at it i did my 914rubber.com speedometer drive thing, while at it i found the oil cooler /filter adapter was loose, very loose! but easy fix! now tight and no more leak! i was worried i had a pushrod tube leak or worse, now no leak. should have thought of checking this sooner. and also re adjusted and balanced the front and rear suspension.

cleaned up pretty good.

but here is a top tech tip: the transmission fluid comes out really fast when hot, it’s pretty thin and it overshot the pan, half of it on the cardboard not in the drip pan, sorry no pics of the mess . so be ready, have a big pan, properly placed.

Mueller
^nice calipers and ^^ great looking covers there Oscar. smash.gif

Ended up redoing the front harness as I misread the wiring matrix and made a mistake.

Not even close to being Mil-spec or something you'd find from a pro shop. I just needed to start and make progress without breaking the bank. Ran out of shrink tubing so once I get that I will finish up front and move the rear, then the cabin/dash wires go in. Couldn't find my black tie wraps so had to use what I could find.

Anyone know where to get a quality headlight socket for the 3 terminals? I've read bad things about the Dorman parts.

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simonjb
Went for coffee in New Canaan CT today...

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dereknlee
Found some instructions online for DIY zinc plating on the cheap. I am a recovering cheap, and have a pile of parts that need plating. Figured why not?

Ordered zinc sulfate off ebay, cut up a boat zinc anode that I got for free, used an old 12V 1.5A transformer, and the rest came from the hardware or grocery store. To soon to tell how well it holds up, but the results look surprisingly good - and it's fun.

First up are the spring perches for my Koni shocks. The shocks are probably due for replacement, but who knows when this car will be on the road and it will be easy to swap them out then, so for now they'll just get a clean up.

Before:

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After:

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Turn signal clamps are in getting plated now. Perches are in the oven to mitigate hydrogen embrittlement.

...looks around for other plain zinc plated hardware to restore.

-Derek
cassmcentee
That's great Derek! Looking Good
It's called "Adding to your Talent Stack"
Cheers
eric9144
Made the long trip back from PHX to San Diego with the 914/6...
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Only to get home and have the fuel pump take a $Hit bs.gif
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No pressure @ the fuel rail
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rjames
Since I can't get the car to run, I thought I'd move on to another project, installing a 3rd brake light, which also operates with the running lights.

Before:
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After:
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Gatornapper
Update on dropped engine: cleaned it last week.

Today: Bead blasted heater valves & one valve cover - ready for paint.

Adjusting valves is SO EASY with engine down, got 1 and 2 done, but cannot rotate engine to get it in position for 3 & 4 - hits just before high point on cam and I cannot rotate the impeller even with leverage - like it hits a brick wall…….yes, plugs are out so no compression issues. Intake on 1 was correct, 2 was too tight at 5 thou. Exhaust was way too tight on both at 7 or less, but now all 4 are correct.

Guess I’ll have to bump the engine over with the battery tomorrow to get 3 & 4. Unless someone has a tip on how to rotate the engine manually while it is out. I tried strap wrench and then a large lever on mounting flanges on impeller, being very careful to not touch a blade......

Cranked engine for 5 seconds with starter, which freed everything up to where impeller again rotated easily by hand again......guess sitting for several weeks all the oil had drained off the cam and the friction between lifter & cam was too much until it had oil....all valves now adjusted, couple intakes way off.....so now will have to dial carbs in again but engine should run even better - can't wait.

GN
eric9144
Have 2 spare DME relays and a new fuel pump inbound dry.gif
Steve
QUOTE(eric9144 @ May 18 2020, 08:12 AM) *

Made the long trip back from PHX to San Diego with the 914/6...
Click to view attachment

Only to get home and have the fuel pump take a $Hit bs.gif
Click to view attachment

No pressure @ the fuel rail
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Is the pump running? Check for 12v while starting motor. DME relay? I always keep a spare in the glove compartment.
ndfrigi
QUOTE(Gatornapper @ May 18 2020, 06:38 PM) *

Update on dropped engine: cleaned it last week.

Today: Bead blasted heater valves & one valve cover - ready for paint.

Adjusting valves is SO EASY with engine down, got 1 and 2 done, but cannot rotate engine to get it in position for 3 & 4 - hits just before high point on cam and I cannot rotate the impeller even with leverage - like it hits a brick wall…….yes, plugs are out so no compression issues. Intake on 1 was correct, 2 was too tight at 5 thou. Exhaust was way too tight on both at 7 or less, but now all 4 are correct.

Guess I’ll have to bump the engine over with the battery tomorrow to get 3 & 4. Unless someone has a tip on how to rotate the engine manually while it is out. I tried strap wrench and then a large lever on mounting flanges on impeller, being very careful to not touch a blade......

GN


not sure if you tried using the alternator to rotate the engine (assuming belt is installed).
I think 17 wrench to rotate it from the alternator
nut.
Gatornapper
Thanks for the tip - but alternator is off, have new one to install. See my update to my post - cranking engine with starter loosened everything up to where I could again rotate the impeller easily by hand.

GN

QUOTE(ndfrigi @ May 19 2020, 01:06 PM) *

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ May 18 2020, 06:38 PM) *

Update on dropped engine: cleaned it last week.

Today: Bead blasted heater valves & one valve cover - ready for paint.

Adjusting valves is SO EASY with engine down, got 1 and 2 done, but cannot rotate engine to get it in position for 3 & 4 - hits just before high point on cam and I cannot rotate the impeller even with leverage - like it hits a brick wall…….yes, plugs are out so no compression issues. Intake on 1 was correct, 2 was too tight at 5 thou. Exhaust was way too tight on both at 7 or less, but now all 4 are correct.

Guess I’ll have to bump the engine over with the battery tomorrow to get 3 & 4. Unless someone has a tip on how to rotate the engine manually while it is out. I tried strap wrench and then a large lever on mounting flanges on impeller, being very careful to not touch a blade......

GN


not sure if you tried using the alternator to rotate the engine (assuming belt is installed).
I think 17 wrench to rotate it from the alternator
nut.

Gatornapper
Got all valves adjusted today, also sand-blasted valve covers and heat flow valves then painted them. My paint work on engine parts is not worthy of posting......IMHO......

Just glad to be making progress......

GN
Craigers17
Taped up the mold for the front oil cooler shroud, and started applying the fiberglass. I only got about 3/4 across the top before my rookie error of mixing up too much resin & hardener in advance bit me in the ass. It started gelling up and I had to stop as I had created a tennis ball-sized, seething blob of chemical heated excess resin.

Yah....I'm an idiot. chair.gif

Also removed the front trunk access plugs to provide an exit for the warm air coming off the cooler.

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Jett
Took the car for a spin with my wife, on the weekend smile.gif
bkrantz
QUOTE(simonjb @ May 17 2020, 08:20 PM) *

Went for coffee in New Canaan CT today...

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What yellow is that?
9fourteen14
QUOTE(yellowporky @ Apr 16 2020, 08:20 PM) *

Front of car all done. Now to focus on drive train.
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what did you use to paint the inner wheel body section?

i have my teener home now and need to do a few things
eric9144
QUOTE(Steve @ May 19 2020, 10:19 AM) *

Is the pump running? Check for 12v while starting motor. DME relay? I always keep a spare in the glove compartment.

Pump seems to jerk when energized but not actually kick off, tried to persuade it with some taps from a hammer and still no pressure @ the fuel rail dry.gif
Ordered 2 DME relays and a fuel pump, all of which arrive today.
Super frustrating but (hopefully) an easy fix. I knew there'd be some issues as the car basically was "stored" for the better part of 6 years prior to me getting it.
Frankvw
Replaced my rear brakes and rear flex hoses. I updated my topic.
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Steve
QUOTE(eric9144 @ May 20 2020, 09:57 AM) *

QUOTE(Steve @ May 19 2020, 10:19 AM) *

Is the pump running? Check for 12v while starting motor. DME relay? I always keep a spare in the glove compartment.

Pump seems to jerk when energized but not actually kick off, tried to persuade it with some taps from a hammer and still no pressure @ the fuel rail dry.gif
Ordered 2 DME relays and a fuel pump, all of which arrive today.
Super frustrating but (hopefully) an easy fix. I knew there'd be some issues as the car basically was "stored" for the better part of 6 years prior to me getting it.

Check for 12v at the pump while cranking the starter. I am not an expert on 3.6 but my 3.2 also has a sensor on the flywheel that detects the motor is turning. If the motor is not running (flywheel spinning) than no 12v to the pump. I had a lot of goofy intermittent crap with my motor. I noticed all the sensors were original 1984 sensors, so i replaced them all.
Both crank sensors, head sensor, idle control valve, installed GT3 fuel pump and new filter. No problems since.
Webers never left me stranded, dme injection has, but I will never go back to carbs. Injection is priceless when its working!!
Gatornapper
Lessee......may not list everything......after adjusting valves yesterday put newly-painted valve covers on with new gaskets & some gasket sealer; blasted then painted tin around the alternator and then installed the new one; blasted other tins to prep for paint, installed new thermostat and wire. Ready for tins.

Rickb45 came over this AM and we went over the engine bay to plan the work there......found a small amount of rust at bottom of hell-hole & need to replace a very small piece of steel there, less than 4 sq.", and some rust on other/driver side but all metal still solid so cleaning up and treating it should be fine. Rick keeps commenting on the incredible condition of this car which keeps me grateful for my good friend Dick Marshall (now passed) for begging me to get it out of his barn 3 years ago 12 years after another friend of his abandoned it there. And Rick is a constant encouragement with his encyclopedic knowledge of "all-things-914" and a continual pressing me on to more work.....sometimes to do things I really don't want to bother with now.........

I'll be working on cleaning and painting the tins next. Anyone know the link to the detailed instructions for re-installing the tins? I can do it without it, but would be nice and speed things up.

I was originally going to fix up the car, enjoy it for a year or so and flip it. No way. I'm in love. This car will be worked on for the rest of my life I think and passed on to my kids.

GN
Mueller
Can you say square peg in round hole?

Installed my new LED spot lights to go along with my new 914rubber LED headlights (and 914rubber headlight surrounds)

Also in pic is my Spoke manufactured LED turn signals and running lights.

Click to view attachment
euro911
Looks GR8, Oscar. I have a Speedhut GPS speedo but never tried to see if it fit the opening ... yet.
ValcoOscar
QUOTE(Mueller @ May 20 2020, 06:09 PM) *

Can you say square peg in round hole?

Installed my new LED spot lights to go along with my new 914rubber LED headlights (and 914rubber headlight surrounds)

Also in pic is my Spoke manufactured LED turn signals and running lights.

Click to view attachment


Nice and bright, nice job Mike.

Oscar
SKL1
Nice gauges, but most of here aren't concerned with water temp!! smile.gif
ValcoOscar
QUOTE(SKL1 @ May 20 2020, 11:00 PM) *

Nice gauges, but most of here aren't concerned with water temp!! smile.gif


Running on 8 cylinders, so water temperature important.

beerchug.gif

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raynekat
Man Oscar.....thems some snazzy gauges. Look great!
Cairo94507
Really nice lighting Mike. You will definitely be seen and see where you are going. Oscar - those gauges and the bezel look excellent. I look forward to hearing that 8 cylinder running. beerchug.gif
Gatornapper
INCREDIBLE work Oscar! Kudos!

Drooling over those gauges - sad they just won't go in my mostly original '76.....

GN

QUOTE(ValcoOscar @ May 20 2020, 08:18 PM) *

Had to modify gauge bezel to accept smaller SpeedHut gauges.

Had to remove original lip...then....



AZBanks
Media blasted fan housing and valve covers and painted the valve covers.
76-914
QUOTE(ValcoOscar @ May 20 2020, 07:18 PM) *

That panel remake looks familiar. shades.gif Nice job. I like the fact that you went with all Speed Hut gauges. You're going to love that speedo, Oscar. Dead nuts accurate no matter which tire size you choose. beerchug.gif
ValcoOscar
QUOTE(76-914 @ May 21 2020, 08:01 AM) *

QUOTE(ValcoOscar @ May 20 2020, 07:18 PM) *

Had to modify gauge bezel to accept smaller SpeedHut gauges.

Had to remove original lip...then....



That panel remake looks familiar. shades.gif Nice job. I like the fact that you went with all Speed Hut gauges. You're going to love that speedo, Oscar. Dead nuts accurate no matter which tire size you choose. beerchug.gif


Thanks Kent!! aktion035.gif

All I know is my current 914 project is not good for my vocabulary.
I'm remembering words I thought I forgot. screwy.gif

Oscar

euro911
All I did was receive the 'late' F. brake dust shields from Jim Hoyland and one of them cool hockey puck horn buttons from Mark Epstein biggrin.gif ...

... which went into storage with the rest of the parts destined to go in and on 'HOWARD' dry.gif


Sum day, I tell ya, sum day ... gonna git that car dun popcorn[1].gif
Steve
QUOTE(euro911 @ May 21 2020, 08:19 AM) *

All I did was receive the 'late' F. brake dust shields from Jim Hoyland and one of them cool hockey puck horn buttons from Mark Epstein biggrin.gif ...

... which went into storage with the rest of the parts destined to go in and on 'HOWARD' dry.gif


Sum day, I tell ya, sum day ... gonna git that car dun popcorn[1].gif

I thought you were retired with all the time in the world!!
Drink some Geritol and git er dun!! poke.gif
I can't wait to retire, but then I won't have money for car parts. huh.gif
euro911
QUOTE(Steve @ May 21 2020, 10:29 AM) *
I thought you were retired with all the time in the world!!Drink some Geritol and git er dun!! poke.gif
I can't wait to retire, but then I won't have money for car parts. huh.gif
Apparently you haven't been looking at the "Why Didn't You do Anything to Your 914 Today?, or the "Any shelter in place projects?" threads, eh? ... poke.gif

Don't wish time to go by faster ... it goes fast enough as it is shades.gif
AZBanks
I am going to submit a bill to my congressman. I am trying to think of a title. The goal of the bill is that the current owner of a classic car can beat the snot out of the previous owner for shoddy maintenance.

I'm in the process of doing an engine swap. Old 1.7 out, not so old 1.8 going in. I was pulling the old exhaust off the 1.8 when I found it it had six 12mm nuts on the exhaust studs, one 13 mm nut on an exhaust stud and one CV bolt in place of an exhaust stud. WTH???? Four of the studs came out and one snapped off right under the nut. Mismatched hardware and no anti-seize.
ClayPerrine
QUOTE(AZBanks @ May 21 2020, 01:41 PM) *

I am going to submit a bill to my congressman. I am trying to think of a title. The goal of the bill is that the current owner of a classic car can beat the snot out of the previous owner for shoddy maintenance.

I'm in the process of doing an engine swap. Old 1.7 out, not so old 1.8 going in. I was pulling the old exhaust off the 1.8 when I found it it had six 12mm nuts on the exhaust studs, one 13 mm nut on an exhaust stud and one CV bolt in place of an exhaust stud. WTH???? Four of the studs came out and one snapped off right under the nut. Mismatched hardware and no anti-seize.


There are some Mercedes Benz exhaust manifold nuts that work great on 914 exhaust studs. They are 13mm, they have a shoulder at the base to keep them from getting too close to the pipe as to make them un-removable, and they are zinc coated to keep them from seizing to the stud. Since I started using them, I have not had a single problem with broken exhaust studs.

If you want more info, you can contact my pusher 914 parts guy Aaron ( @partsguy22 ) on here. Tell him I sent you.

eric9144
Replaced my fuel pump and it fired up on the 1st crank cheer.gif cheer.gif cheer.gif

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtIeQPjBgKQ
ValcoOscar
QUOTE(eric9144 @ May 21 2020, 12:55 PM) *

Replaced my fuel pump and it fired up on the 1st crank cheer.gif cheer.gif cheer.gif

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtIeQPjBgKQ



Great NEWS!!!

Oscar


Click to view attachment
AZBanks
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ May 21 2020, 12:07 PM) *

QUOTE(AZBanks @ May 21 2020, 01:41 PM) *

I am going to submit a bill to my congressman. I am trying to think of a title. The goal of the bill is that the current owner of a classic car can beat the snot out of the previous owner for shoddy maintenance.

I'm in the process of doing an engine swap. Old 1.7 out, not so old 1.8 going in. I was pulling the old exhaust off the 1.8 when I found it it had six 12mm nuts on the exhaust studs, one 13 mm nut on an exhaust stud and one CV bolt in place of an exhaust stud. WTH???? Four of the studs came out and one snapped off right under the nut. Mismatched hardware and no anti-seize.


There are some Mercedes Benz exhaust manifold nuts that work great on 914 exhaust studs. They are 13mm, they have a shoulder at the base to keep them from getting too close to the pipe as to make them un-removable, and they are zinc coated to keep them from seizing to the stud. Since I started using them, I have not had a single problem with broken exhaust studs.

If you want more info, you can contact my pusher 914 parts guy Aaron ( @partsguy22 ) on here. Tell him I sent you.


Once I figured out what the CV bolt was, it was the easiest to get to and easiest to remove.
Four of the studs are already out and another is broken so it has to come out. Since most of them are out or coming out, I am thinking of pulling the rest and just using socket head cap screws with nord-lock washers.
ClayPerrine
QUOTE(AZBanks @ May 21 2020, 03:30 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ May 21 2020, 12:07 PM) *

QUOTE(AZBanks @ May 21 2020, 01:41 PM) *

I am going to submit a bill to my congressman. I am trying to think of a title. The goal of the bill is that the current owner of a classic car can beat the snot out of the previous owner for shoddy maintenance.

I'm in the process of doing an engine swap. Old 1.7 out, not so old 1.8 going in. I was pulling the old exhaust off the 1.8 when I found it it had six 12mm nuts on the exhaust studs, one 13 mm nut on an exhaust stud and one CV bolt in place of an exhaust stud. WTH???? Four of the studs came out and one snapped off right under the nut. Mismatched hardware and no anti-seize.


There are some Mercedes Benz exhaust manifold nuts that work great on 914 exhaust studs. They are 13mm, they have a shoulder at the base to keep them from getting too close to the pipe as to make them un-removable, and they are zinc coated to keep them from seizing to the stud. Since I started using them, I have not had a single problem with broken exhaust studs.

If you want more info, you can contact my pusher 914 parts guy Aaron ( @partsguy22 ) on here. Tell him I sent you.


Once I figured out what the CV bolt was, it was the easiest to get to and easiest to remove.
Four of the studs are already out and another is broken so it has to come out. Since most of them are out or coming out, I am thinking of pulling the rest and just using socket head cap screws with nord-lock washers.


That's not really a good idea. It is far easier to strip the threads out of the heads with any bolt than it is to use a stud and the proper nut. Most people just use whatever nut they have handy. That causes the exhaust heat to seize the nut to the stud. Then the stud unscrews, and sometimes that brings the threads in the head with it.

Just put the studs back, and use some nuts that won't seize to the studs. The MB ones work great for me, but YMMV.
AZBanks
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ May 21 2020, 01:54 PM) *

QUOTE(AZBanks @ May 21 2020, 03:30 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ May 21 2020, 12:07 PM) *

QUOTE(AZBanks @ May 21 2020, 01:41 PM) *

I am going to submit a bill to my congressman. I am trying to think of a title. The goal of the bill is that the current owner of a classic car can beat the snot out of the previous owner for shoddy maintenance.

I'm in the process of doing an engine swap. Old 1.7 out, not so old 1.8 going in. I was pulling the old exhaust off the 1.8 when I found it it had six 12mm nuts on the exhaust studs, one 13 mm nut on an exhaust stud and one CV bolt in place of an exhaust stud. WTH???? Four of the studs came out and one snapped off right under the nut. Mismatched hardware and no anti-seize.


There are some Mercedes Benz exhaust manifold nuts that work great on 914 exhaust studs. They are 13mm, they have a shoulder at the base to keep them from getting too close to the pipe as to make them un-removable, and they are zinc coated to keep them from seizing to the stud. Since I started using them, I have not had a single problem with broken exhaust studs.

If you want more info, you can contact my pusher 914 parts guy Aaron ( @partsguy22 ) on here. Tell him I sent you.


Once I figured out what the CV bolt was, it was the easiest to get to and easiest to remove.
Four of the studs are already out and another is broken so it has to come out. Since most of them are out or coming out, I am thinking of pulling the rest and just using socket head cap screws with nord-lock washers.


That's not really a good idea. It is far easier to strip the threads out of the heads with any bolt than it is to use a stud and the proper nut. Most people just use whatever nut they have handy. That causes the exhaust heat to seize the nut to the stud. Then the stud unscrews, and sometimes that brings the threads in the head with it.

Just put the studs back, and use some nuts that won't seize to the studs. The MB ones work great for me, but YMMV.


That makes sense. Four of the existing studs are locked/seized to the nuts so based on what you just said, I'm thinking I'll pull the remaining studs and replace them and try out the MB exhaust nuts. Thanks Clay!
sb914
Went for a short drive and seen a bunch of Ferrari’s. Click to view attachment
DRPHIL914
little trip to savannah and a gathering that got scrubbed due to lack of permit by the organizers so we went for bit to eat burgers and beers so all is good!(yesterday)

and a few other modern porsche’s there too, only had about a half hour before we had to leave, couple Ferrari’s too, lots of other stuff. well, maybe we wil have better luck for the cruise-in scheduled for thursday evening in HHi!
cheers!
euro911
QUOTE(sb914 @ May 24 2020, 06:08 AM) *
Went for a short drive and seen a bunch of Ferrari’s.

Click to view attachment

... and one Ferrari Killer aktion035.gif
Gatornapper
Great pics Phil. Thanks! piratenanner.gif

GN

QUOTE(DRPHIL914 @ May 24 2020, 08:38 AM) *

little trip to savannah and a gathering that got scrubbed due to lack of permit by the organizers so we went for bit to eat burgers and beers so all is good!(yesterday)

and a few other modern porsche’s there too, only had about a half hour before we had to leave, couple Ferrari’s too, lots of other stuff. well, maybe we wil have better luck for the cruise-in scheduled for thursday evening in HHi!
cheers!

VegasRacer
Cleaned the windshield, plugged in the radar detector, adjusted the mirror, (all in that order), and went for an early morning drive with some friends. smilie_flagge6.gif
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