Oh HELL no! Peter Dawe is one of the top race air cooled -6 engine builders in the country. He was one of the first employees at Andial way back in the day. He knows everything from 935's, 962's, 917's and builds some of the fastest and most reliable 911 and 914 race cars around....just ask anyone that races in PCA Racing...

When Nadine and I visited him a year or so ago, he had the very last 993 RSR ever built getting it's engine rebuilt. When we dropped off Papa Smurf last week, 930 prototypes #001 and #006 were at his shop being restored, along with a few other 'gems'. Like a 4.0 liter air cooled engine that makes well over 500 hp..

Unfortunately, Dawe's is in Stroudsburg, PA - 10 hour drive from us here in Charlotte. He's who we should have taken the car to after engine failure #2...or 3...or 4. So now with #5, we've finally learned...

His son's ain't too shabby either...

http://www.dawesmotorsports.com/index.cfm?...mcategory=62168

Put it away for the winter.

Our shop builds engines. We go to Dawes for the race engine builds. It's a whole different ballgame and they have the reputation. A "Dawes engine" is highly reguarded in the industry.
Bob - if you every need anything, I'm at RS-Werks in Newark DE.

Replacement floorpan is now fully in, seat mounts welded in, everything sealed top and bottom. POR 15 is going in tomorrow (need all day for 2 coats), but it's basically prepped and ready. When I brought this car home a few months ago I was nearly able to pull the driver seat out, attached to the mounts, with my bare hands. Pretty much only the reinforcement strap and sound padding was holding it together - the entire back 50% of the floorpan was rust.

This is my first major milestone in the rustoration. Motor out and hell hole fixed next, then paint. Pretty pleased with getting to this point, since now that the car has a floor it can be made drivable in a few hours.

drove it this morning to Laguna Hills to check a non member here for selling his 2 1973 teen. Nice drive on a cool 55 weather, running between 65 and 75 mph.




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Holy-Moly ... literally

Having not noticed this damage under the driver's seat when I bought it (sight unseen and without telling the wife) I drove it home 60 miles on mainly the freeway with expired tabs and no title. After I saw what was under the driver's seat that little adventure went from "amusing adventure" to "I literally could have died in numerous exciting ways".

My brother gave me a '63 ragtop sunroof bug he drove out here from Alabama after he got out of the army in 1971. The floors were rotted out, had plywood on the floors and 2x4s supporting the seats. I couldn't drive it in the rain ... the tires threw water into the interior

Found a stuck piston in my brake caliper. Air pressure wouldn't budge it, so got a little creative.
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And with a few pulls on the handle
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Now to clean out the grease and reseal.

Finally got around to installing a functional neutral switch. Ross' fiasco got my attention. Also, I wired my backup lites into the switched power circuit so I won't be leaving those lites on by accident any more. Next I tidied all the new wiring up with some plastic loom. Can't believe that I managed to put this off for a year.

Drove the 2.2L at great speeds for several hours at a time Laguna Beach to our home in Arizona..... and,.. I carefully drained the oil prior to the trip, replaced the filter and precisely measured in the new oil. Then when I returned to Laguna, I drained the oil and drained the oil filter into measured containers / Absolutely no appreciable oil burn in just under 1000 miles / many at 85+mph... AZ speed limit is 75 and when in the saddle, one can safely cruse at 85-90 between two others with detectors etc...

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I thought about 914s ... and 911s and 912s

I made shipping arrangements for a T-4 motor for my '67 912-6 ...

... showed my Vanagon to a prospective buyer ...

... and applied some Henry-Tar to a few spots on my roof before El Niño catches me with my pants down




oh, and painted some more on my dirt bike project. All the plastic stuff now has 3 coats

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your going to label the MC with 914 decals??

No, but I just ordered new black plates from the CA DMV ... only they're for a 911

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Thank you! Rears are 16x8 with 225/50's on them.

FINALLY got M caliper piston out after 100+ LBS of air pressure, heat and a BFH . Some one had used the grease gun previously without success and when the piston blew out there was grease everywhere.

Sorted out some electrical problems help put my Trans back together . :

Hey Mark, they accepted this? In Cal you can't have a plate that is all numbers....reserved for official cars. I ordered 1970 914 and then received a decline from sacramento...even tho dumb DMV took the money and the order... i hope you get it.

I replaced my clutch cable. Then I thought why not replace the throttle cable while I'm down there. Unfortunately, the throttle cable got wrapped around the clutch cable. I pulled out my trusty bore scope (the cheap one from Shanghai Tool Supply) and checked it out. I saw how it was wrapped around the other cable, so I unwrapped it an equal amount of turns. Only that made it worse. It took a few minutes to decide that since my bore scope had the mirror attachment on it everything was BACKWARDS, DOH!! Unwrapped it properly this time, adjusted the clutch put it all back together and the clutch is really smooooth now. On the road again.

As far as I know, personalized 'vanity' plates can have anything (up to 7 letters or numbers. I would think they wouldn't have allowed me to put it in my shopping cart if it wasn't acceptable

When I tried to get 66 912, their site indicated that it was already taken ...

If they don't issue them and keep my $, I'll just contest the charge with my CC company

Here's some # only plates they issued

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(top plate)

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Pesky cables ... that's just another good reason why I'll be doing the hydraulic clutch system conversion on the 'BB' (when I get off my dead ass)

Made final shipping arrangements for my new 2056 motor (for the '67 912) ... will ship from Ohio tomorrow

Well I didn't do anything but pay, just had Zotz's Racing prep my car for the 2016 racing season. Trans freshened up, new fuel bladder, more rear suspension reenforcing (due to loads at Sebring last year), mod cage and door for quicker entry and exit, clean up rear taillight area....and assorted other items that equal $8k, so much for cheap racer. It does draw a crowd of faithful 914 admirers. Next event PBOC Winterfest at Sebring Jan 21-24. You can guess what a race event costs, fuel, new tires, hotel, pay transport and crewing...way cheaper than the CUP guys though.Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

Greg - Beautiful car. Good luck.

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A friend came over in his nearly perfect '66 E type to help me bleed the brakes... better than before but still not rock hard like I want. Will drive some and bleed again.

Nice ... don't see many on the road these days.

I have a pretty nice right front Jag fender hanging in my shop. I don't know anybody who owns one, wonder if your friend knows of anyone looking for one

Fabricated the brackets for 911 hand brake and welded them onto the swing arms
This brake conversion all taking longer than I thought

Nice Jag!

Interesting jack stand under the 914, got more info on that?

Nice crispy sunny day here in so. oregon, took the pumpkin for a nice ride...... topless. I imagine if i had the top on the heater would have baked me out . anyhow great ride.

I was going to ask the same thing about the jack stands......

Jackpoint jackstands, pretty spendy at $300

http://shop.jackpointjackstands.com/

Yep, Jackpoint stands- not cheap but work great, especially on newer models with limited ground clearance. They slip around the jack so you can put them right on the jackpoint on the car.

Once you get them you'll wish you'd gotten them sooner.


(if you also go to rennlist, you can get a discount)

Cars and Coffee this AM at Penske Racing Musuem in north ScottsdaleClick to view attachment

Stopped by the shop for a few hours. Patted the 'BB' on the head, and then went inside to tinker with a few things.

Removed my wife's 1.7L case from the engine stand and temporarily bolted the halves back together, then installed it in the '67 912.

Installed a 912 rear tin plate on the bell housing, jacked the motor to the proper angle and tightened the trans support strap, so now I can take accurate measurements and make a template to fabricate a rear engine mounting bar.

I'm going change course and install the new 2056 T-4 in the '66 912, and install the 616 motor (that I recently refreshed) in the '67 ... then put the '67 up for sale.


I really need to make some room in the shop and get the 'BB' inside before El Niño starts pounding us ... (if indeed it actually happens)

Next 914 task will be to mock-up the Wilwood hydraulic clutch components on my spare transaxle ... and if it works out, get it installed in the 'BB'.

I had a half dozen 914 friends over to my house and we did this http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2268004

Fuel pump relocated. New fuel lines installed. Side shifter linkage 90 installed. Old motor dropped and split. New motor 90% dressed.
I am pretty sure that if we had not been missing a couple of critical bits, we might have made it in one day, but we still got more done that I could have done solo in a solid week of work.
Thanks to all who attended!

Reinstalled the motor, changed the fuel filter, installed a new belt, topped off the oil and took her for a quick spin. Satisfied I engaged the blades and parked her in the shed. Uh, the riding mower. The 914 sits patiently waiting for a new tranny housing since the ring and pinion are singing more loudly than a drunk soprano and just as annoying.

I drove it!Click to view attachment

Lucky guy

I recognize that neighborhood.

Rebuilt the pedal cluster, POR-15 the new floor pan, painted the seat hardware, and reinstalled. Busy weekend, but now that part of the rust project is done and it's time for Phase II: Pull the motor and fix the hell hole.

Pedal cluster rebuilt wasn't too bad, really - the worst part was reinstalling everything and hooking the cables back up. Second worst was pressing in the new retaining pin, which broke my vise. I don't envy whoever rebuilds the pedals next, because that pin's going *nowhere*.

Found the spot I had inserted my big fat hand and dislodged the spade connector on the starter relay. I had prepared myself for some grand search but it revealed itself so quickly I had time to do Spring Cleaning in my garage. I know, a few months early but it really needed a good scrubbing, literally.

Scraped Windows this morning on RevWife's 76 914- cleared space in garage this epafternoon.

drove to work to day, 38 degrees at 6am! glad I have the new heated seats from 914rubber!! BUT several times this morning car hesitated on acceleration. has not done that for a long time- exactly a year ago, when I chased my tail to find a failing MPS and then a month later finally figured out distributor cap was bad. after replacing the cap and rotor I have not had a day where it didn't start or run perfect, so not an official pole but, what are your top 10 reasons for a 75 d-jet 914 to suddenly start to sputter , hesitate intermiitantly? I did just fill tank with ethanol free gas, it first did this a few days ago when I was toward the bottom of the tank, before filling it. SO.... my first thoughts
1. cap and/or rotor
2. points- nope I have hot spark module
3. FI trigger points - had this happen, put new ones in last year
4. plugs and wires - new last year
5. injectors - brand new 2 years ago NOS from Otto's venice
6. F.I. grounds - had this come loose once before - will double check later
7. fuel pressure- pefect
8. CHT- it was defective/out of spec resistance wise so replaced last year
9. MPS- could be, over 6 years ive had 3 fail, it may be time to rebuild one with my tangerine kit...... last one failed electronically and went SUPER LEAN no rich, so it actually would not start, unless you disconnected the vac hose from manifold , then it ran , very rich but ran
10. bad harness - nope brand new 2 years ago from Bowlsby
11. TPS - used to have that 3000rpm bucking, but replaced it with a NOS one from bruce stone and have never seen that since - last year

other thoughts?

bad fuel, fuel filters and lines yes replaced 1 year ago during my last fun episode of "chasing my tail trouble shooting the d-jet" episode.

Have a great day ya'all!

After about ten years of building and adjusting to lost theft items, the car is finally on the down side for painting. Started stripping all the parts off the car in preparation for painting. should be done this afternoon, then the labor starts in preparation and sanding.

Well, my new 2056 is scheduled to be delivered to the local freight terminal later today ... so in preparation, I started fabricating a template for a rear engine mounting bar. This is what I came up with (so far) ...

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I still need to determine exactly where and how to mount the side tubes - weld them directly to the bar, or weld the tubes to adjustable plates bolted to the bar (allowing for fine-adjustment)

Even though this mock-up is in the '67, I decided to install the T4 motor in my '66 912, and the '68 912/616 motor will go into the '67 (after some underbelly repairs) &


Earlier in the day, I shot the [recently extended] J-pipes for the '68 616 motor with some of that 2000° BBQ paint.

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I promise to do some work on a 914 soon

yesterday my friend dropped his car to my place (family living for family vacation) to be pick up by a member here from Ohio this thursday and drive it back home.
Love the color and classic look with those wheels and narrow tires.

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I see you're already prepared for the impending oil change on it in the morning


I picked up the 'new' [to me] 2056 from FedEx this am. Got it over to the shop and hoisted it up onto an engine stand. That's about all ...

I drove it.Click to view attachment