Swapped this original? Brake MC for this new one



Cleaned out some sludge from the feed lines and reinstalled with grommets...

I love seeing

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Drove it like I stole it. Beautiful day in Northern California Click to view attachment

Installed my brand new front trunk seal from 914Rubber!

Hey Phil, I heard they fit like a glove in all corners ... is that true

Yes, just fit a little stretch , and tuck it down into the channel where it fits just perfectly. Easiest thing I've done in a long time

Other side

One of the headlight bucket area

Oh yeah, that's much better than the (not too old) one in the 'BB', and The '71 will need a new one after paint ... I'll have to order a couple then

Redid my fog lights. Bought the Auto Zone Blazer lights. Broke the blue glass, tossed everything but the reflector and bulb and used the reflector and bulb with the stock housings and new glass. The Blue glass was glued to the housing. Tried acetone, etc., but the lens would not separate, so I had to break it. The stock lens has a small tab at the top. I used a pair of side cutters to bend back the blazer metal reflector at the top, so the stock lens would sit flush. If you zoom in on the stock lens next to the blue one, you will see the small tab at the top. I now have modern 55 watt bulbs and reflectors. The stock lens also helps diffuse the light, so it doesn't blind oncoming traffic. I also like the stock look.
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Nice job, Steve

I have a few sets of fogs to refurbish and the reflectors are - let's say, less than stellar

Thanks Mark!! I saw some previous threads on world where people just bolted on the whole blue lens and reflector to the stock housing with good results. The blue lenses also look cool, but I wanted the stock look.

I drove it to work today... Which is an accomplishment for the Grey Ghost considering all the throttle cable issues over the past 2 weeks

I put the heater parts on Betty's 914 yesterday. Today I drove out and changed her flat left front (brand new Bridgestones). Apparently it has a cut valve stem.

She had all the stuff out to change it, but I told her I would come do it. Easier for me to come there than her to change it in work clothes.

Had a little time before dinner, so I pulled out the right door latch. I was thinking it was gummed up, but it was just the opposite. Dry as a bone and bound up.
I guess Super In Law and I went a little overboard on not over greasing and gumming it up.

It's getting an overnight dose of PB Blaster. It was already working correctly.

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WHAAAAT? So is that going into the gray car? Don't let anyone ride in it right after lunch!

Finished modifying my newly acquired rotisserie and bolted her up to my car. Still need to build my support bars but she's almost ready to install by floors and other support metal including a modified roll bar.
No pics until there's some real progress....

Installed $14 (for the PAIR!) LED spot driving lights adapted to my factory fog mounts. Not really a pencil beam driving light, but a more diffuse pattern. Insanely bright, very nice fit. Lights are from Amazon, link below.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAR0...=UTF8&psc=1

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Being very bright and relatively non directional, how bad are those going to blind oncoming drivers? Maybe only light them up when there's no one around... especially cops ??

I want some for the rear ... you know, for tailgaters

The photo of the lights on the garage door is misleading. Here's another photo that shows the beam pattern of the high beams and driving lights on simultaneously, from the inside of the car. It's really a pretty good pattern. "Driving lights" is a misnomer for these lights, when directed downward, their pattern is relatively wide and mostly near-field. I had them on with my low beams when I encountered traffic a few times and nobody flashed me. I'm using H4 LED "bulbs" in my Cibie H4 headlight housings for my hi/lo beams, their pattern is OK at best. I think if I converted to the Truck-Lite LED headlights the pattern would fantastic, and those lights have a super-sharp upper cut-off.


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Took the misses out for lunch...it's her first ride in the teener!
No complaints of being loud or smelly.



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We used to call that a Drag Light

Was it a lot of work to get them to fit in the stock location ?
Did you run new wiring and relay for them ?

Too cool!

Picked up a 2.5 Boxster engine for free last night from a guy that lives a few houses down from my mother-in-law while I was getting my twins from her

I saw a guy struggling with the motor on some broken HF dollies and pulled over to offer him a hand thinking he was putting the motor back in the garage, turns out he was putting the motor out on the curb for the metal scrap guys to get in the morning.

I asked if I could have it and he said no problem. Pretty cool guy, in his late 50's/early 60's and still works on his own cars. He replaced the motor in his Boxster with a slightly larger one. He said if this motor pops he'll do a 3.2 from a Caymen. Said it took him about 150 hours to R&R the motor himself!

He "thinks" the motor I got from him has a blown headgasket but doing some reading last night that is very, very rare thing to happen. He pointed to one specific side of the motor saying that was the problem head, who knows?!

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I confirmed that the headers I bought from Larmo yesterday would fit my heads and studs for my 3.0SC motor (verses a corvair trick) and then I went to the shop and sand blasted them prior to ceramic coating.

After missing out on a bid for the 914-6 lower linkage yesterday, it occurred to me that if the bellcrank is a duplicate of the 911 upper linkage bellcrank (and it looks like it might be) this is a part-set that could easily be fabricated and sold at half the going rate. Research underway...

Nope. different bellcrank....

Nice score, Mike

I was gonna say something, but on second thought, I'd better not

Started

Warmed up

Driven ... driven hard ... driven HARDER ...

smiled

And spotted another BUB in the wild!

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I got say---BUB's goes out and have more fun

Did you meet the owner, Abe?

All I had to do to get them to work in the stock location was to make a simple adapter that I attached to the bracket that comes with the lights, it's shown below in the pictures. I made the adapters from 3/4" x 3/32" zinc-plated steel strip that I bought from ACE Hardware, they're 75 mm long, with right-angle bends at 25 mm from each end. Hole positions were determined by test fitting it. The stock captive nut gives you about 2 mm of movement in each direction for exact positioning. The mounts are very solid and I haven't noticed any vibration from the lights when driving on uneven pavement.

I used the stock wiring, no need for a relay, as LED's draw far less current than the stock fog lights. The LED's pull 1.45 A each at 12 V, the stock fog lights pull about 3 A each at 12 V.

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He is a member here and met him a few years ago at the Phoenix club.
I think his user name is mike914duck

Cool thank you so much for the detailed pic. I should have waited on my amazon order then I could have added the noid and spark tool. Next time.

Thanks again

Yeah, OK ... I know Mike. Never seen his car though.

Mike helped with a fresh drive train installation, along with G e o r g e, and T H O M A S ... back in 2010 IIRC

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I milled my own pressmould for a Seat hinge bracket .And I was really surprised how nice this worked.

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That's awesome

Still working on the blower box. After adding new "gaskets" to the main flaps in the fan box, I figured time to renew the blower housing to box gasket which had perished.



Instead of the wide cell pipe insulation I used on the flapper doors, I used the closed cell type that had some adhesive built in.


Simply cut down the existing seam the appropriate length and spread some additional adhesive on the box side. Held on very well. Had to take a razor blade to trim the height a little more once installed but worked out fine for about $4.50 and 30 minutes of time.

I would just buy the rich Johnson kit.
It's also easy to fabricate an "L" bracket and use the stock cable. The difference is that the stock cable will come into the engine compartment at an odd angle which will make the pedal slightly harder to push.

Pulled right front caliper, blew out the pistons with air (per Haynes - what a simple solution) and rebuilt the unit. Clips that stop the pistons from rotating were missing from both front calipers and got those at 20deg. One more caliper to go then new brake pads ...
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Were the calipers that clean to start with or did you spruce them up as well?

They were in solid shape but rusty. The brake fluid that spilled all over them as I was working on them seems to have improved their look!

That's awesome!!

Giving the '73 some company in the garage in AZ...Click to view attachment

Uh, I'll gladly take that 65 GTO convertible off someones hands....

Love the color. Great choice.

Your letting others do the work?

Sold the white '73 and my 2.7 motor arrived. My wallet is a lot lighter from the Patrick Motorsports order. Who said a /6 conversion was cheap/easy?

No one.