Sir Eddy, like seeing your beautiful, clean, narrow body with V8 conversion!

Thanks... The stripe makes the LOW car look even lower. Plus was a bit tired of people asking... whut kinda car is dat?

I like it!! Breaks up all the silver, but not totally blacked out. It also looked perfect before.

Had a set of Conti Extreme Contact Sports (summer tire) mounted 205/50/15s and took it for a spin on my favorite twisties. They are quiet, ride well, and have freekin' tenacious grip. Love 'em.

The downside is my speedo needs to be recalibrated 10 mph lower but well worth it.

Personally, I like it. The little bit of black offsets the silver very well and adds a nice detail to the car.

Perfect- love the color & Fuchs
I have 2 silver cars one is boxster ,

Added to my list of things for PMS to complete.
1. Remove/fill in and paint windshield H20 squirter holes
2. Remove/fill in and paint radio antenna hole.
3. Install new dash pad

Hood needs to be cut and buffed. I've got the orange bar crest for it, and the gold lettering for the deck lid waiting to be installed.

Is that fan housing powder coated. It looks fantastic! How did you get the two halves apart? I have one that I've soaked & re-soaked for days with PB Blaster and none of those screws budge at all.

Received a pair of NOS heater valves from KevinW - these are really nice




OT - I removed the head-pipe/HEs off of my '66 912 about a year ago, repaired a cable guide tube on the passenger's side, blasted and painted them with 2000° paint, but somehow misplaced the driver's side

Click to view attachment


Whilst searching for a replacement, came across a really nice pair for a dynomite price on ebay (prior to my cc getting hacked during the w/e) ... (BTW, new cc is on the way so I can use paypal again in a day or so).

In any event, the pipes showed up while I was out of town last week ... just opened the box today

Click to view attachment

Will blast and repaint the pipes, but the boxes look good enough to use as-is

Mark- surprised you bother with heat considering where you live... my '73 lives in Scottsdale and I don't miss the heat! Looks so clean under there without heater boxes and all the assorted valves, etc!
I suppose a defroster would be nice now and then, but these cars aren't exactly DD's!!

No, its high temp rattle can paint. I can't take credit for the paint other than the color choice. Forrest touched up everything before dropping off the motor at my mechanic. A real stand up guy. Hope to have it back in the car and running in about a week or so.

It gets pretty cold in fall/winter up in Payson, and we've had some cold weather hitting us in So Cal this winter season too. I ran the 'BB' without heat several years ago, but "I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now"


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=/mKKLIrOGfUo

The older I get, the more I appreciate the meaning in those lyrics.

Did you try using an impact screw driver? I couldn't loosen mine by hand, but the impact made quick work of them.

Something like this: Link

You can also use a torch to heat up the areas surrounding the screws.

Milled the turbo valve covers for the 3.0 motor so clearance is not an issue.

I did that recently and took the ribs down to the height of the material at the studs. Hope it is enough.....

As for today, Keith914 and I reinstalled my tank in coordination with the front pump, filter, and shutoff valve. Also, I finalized the oil lines to and from the engine on the opposite side of the Mocal - opposite from the two braided stainless lines going to and from the oil cooler up front.

I also contracted w/ Perry Kiehl to put together a wiring harness to mate to the MSD 6AL digital ignition box, coil, tach adapter, etc. All to have sex with the twelve pin connector on the original harness from my 71. The engine bay looks pretty clean with out the relay board cluttering up the oil tank fittings and filter.

I am off to Mesa Hose to get reamed on some exotic oil line fittings that would connect to the original oil tank fitting and become an AN 12 fitting... then one that mates to an original 914-6 oil line and mates to an AN 16 on the on-engine oil cooler line under the cooler.... Yikes!

Sounds like you and I are doing a very similar conversion. I am also using an MSD so maybe I should speak with Perry.

Did you run your oil lines on the drivers side?

Also, how did you mount your cooler up front? I wish someone made a bracket.

Got some gas and

Click to view attachment

Well, the 'get-to-it' bug finally bit me ...

Pulled the cover off of the 'BB', jacked it up and swept up the pile of dirt from underneath.

Click to view attachment


Removed the driver's seat and the center console box to access the tunnel to check out the clutch cable's issue.

Click to view attachment


It looks like the cable somehow missed entering the rear of the tube and is stuck somewhere inside the tunnel. I'll run an inspection camera in there to see where it's hung up.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment


I may need to pull the cable out at the front of the tunnel, as I believe the pedal clevis is still attached and grabbing something

Click to view attachment


Since I have all the components needed for the hydraulic release system, I think I'll be ditching the cable and running the hydraulic hose through the tube. I'll be jacking up the front and sticking another pair of ramps under the front wheels tomorrow.

Today was TIG day for the construction (can you say cobbling together)of two final oil line fittings / The wierd threaded one that comes out of the lower corner side of the oil tank that goes thru the engine bay metal-work......... and the AN-16 on the engine oil cooler. I mated an AN-12 fitting to each and will make up the final AN12 Braided SS hoses later today.

All oil lines are done and ready to accept oil.... Engine goes in early next week. Perry K. is making up a well coordinated engine harness to seamlessly tie into my MSD AL6 digital and other connectors and various senders etc.Cant wait to get that essential piece of the puzzle.

There is some good talent out there.

last week late, I visited my engine builder friend in LA to go over the tally sheet and to pay the piper for his sage wisdom (having built well over a hundred 911 engines in his tenure...) and to get the docs on the full rebuild bottom to top.....

so preliminary numbers are in:
core 82 3.0 / running and valve guides shot when it came out of the donner - 1000.00 not including any FI or intake but included 911 tin, fan/alt, turbo Valve covers and tensioners w/ 993 head studs installed by PO
1200.00 very solid triple Webers on PMO intake manifolds
900.00 WebCam regrind 20/21
300.00 re-curve stock dizzy to Webcam profiles etc.
100.00 Red Shroud
I tore down the engine and paid 1000 to have it professionally rebuilt with me documenting the process at every build-session. the mechanic gave me a 15% discount on parts purchased thru Pelican and his other suppliers .
parts for the rebuild included(but not limited to) Main Bearings, Rod Bearings IMS outs and inners, two one-piece timing chains,new timing chain sprockets, new rails,24 rocker shaft seals,6 piston ring sets, nuts washers engine gasket set, top end gasket set new belt, sealants, etc.
1450.00 - for parts

About 6K just for a rebuilt engine! What was I thinking?!!! I will have to drive it 300,00 miles just to get the build cost for the engine down to 2 cents a mile....

Out of hibernation today.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

That's a bargain

The way I feel today I probably barfed on it. Some flu-like poop has gone through the whole family...as in through both ends...


No fan required....

I agree! Those prices seem really low. Even for a 4.

Painted the bezel for the ignition switch.....

Bought it!

See Intro thread

Congratulations! You're off and running!

Is that 914 a convertible?

I drove the snot out of my 75 at the season's first autocross!

Had fun playing with my cousins truck today. 496 big block but wheel spin is useless especially vs. 1900 pounds and 240 hp Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

New CC received, PP reactivated, parts payments will commence


Little by little, bit by bit, bit by bit, bit - by - bit, by - bit ...

Bow to poop deck crawl space achieved ... now to find the creeper and remember where I stored the hyd clutch parts

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment


I need to pay attention to the wheels some day soon ... they would look much nicer with some elbow grease and wheel paint

Finally warm enough to take outside and get a pic. 72' 4 cylinder 1.7 liter. Not restored, but preserved. Mostly all original, but carb put on for ease of use. (FI saved for the future. ) I paid $3000 a few months ago and have been cleaning and poking it while following this site. Super fun car to drive. Will post more pics as the summer goes on.

Sorted out turn signals on the 71'. Corrosion on rear turn signal and a broke wire.

Restored the horns... put them on this week

Today was load up the tranny with fresh oil (from Bruce at Pelican) then recheck exhaust studs for depth and good threads all around. New nuts and washers etc. Gaskets all around.

Located the MSD coil per Perry K's recommendation on location on the battery hardware / good location based on verticals and coil wire length.

And Perry K. is building the end-all wiring harness for a 3.0 mate to a 71 harness and the MSD + tach adapter and 911 gauges.. / No pressure Perry.. just make it work perfectly the first time.,, A quote from our pal Rich Johnson... ... The entire 914 WORLD is watching,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I'm making a push to get my /6 conversion done for May, June at the latest. Today I pulled my engine so I could finish welding the mount in. then I tackled cutting off the relay board mounts and the blower fan mount. I want to try to get at least 2 full days into it a week, if I do I have a good chance of driving my 914 for the summer.

The money shot, as gorgeous as that dizzy is you can't see the F'in thing once it's in the car.

2nd pic is the cut off relay board moults. not much but at least it's a (re-) start.

You can always fab a clear lexan engine lid





Found the clutch conversion components out in the shed

Click to view attachment

Painted out the trans and boxed up the rest of the parts (clear-coated heat- exchangers, re-painted Bursch exhaust heater, control flaps, speedo cable, throw out bearing, etc.) to go back to the mechanic for the install. Soon to be joined with Forrest's old 2.2L dual carb engine.
Click to view attachment

No I literally mean you can not see the dizzy even with the lid open.
All you can see is a mess of snakes in the area, but not the dizzy.

It's like the fan.
I hate the red fan, but you can't see it so I'm not going to bother painting it.

Looking nice Mark.

Blocking my restoration project "72 for the last time, before the last coat of Lacquer goes on. It's been a very long road to get here.

Click to view attachment

Hey Mark H. If you want to see that cute fan and other goodies after installation simply install an Carbon Fiber access hatch for your not-so-frequent tuneups to come in the future. You can then drool over the sexy dizzy while adjusting your shimp on the fan belt pulley and checking your timing,,..

One of the members here sells the kit very reasonably. You will thank him later..

Sir, are you still planning to use those 75/76 HE to former Forrest engine?

Hmmm ... maybe you can have them fab'd in a clear (lexan) material, Forrest ?

Put insurance back on it, aired up tires and planning on a drive.