I am working to install my new pertronix ignitor and it looks like I have a 009 distributor which leads me to ask.. Is this a good set up for the car? IF so what should I set the timing for?

the car is a 73 2.0 dual bbl webber 44 IDF carbs. Anyone else have any experience with a set up like this? what would you recommend? I also plan to install the MSD 6A after I get this sorted out..

I also have a 205A distributor that is in a box if that is a better choice?

Thanks for any thoughts..

009 = POS

They work OK in a T1 bug, but suck on the T4.

Some guys use the 050 with OK results.
You can use the 205A, but you will have to tap all 4 runners on your manifolds and run them to one "T" fitting, to run the vacuum advance.

If you have the coin, get a Mallory with vacuum advance.

OK, so you say 009 = POS
but I have a 009 at the moment So has anyone set a 009 up for a 2.0?
where should I set the timing.. for starters?

Has anyone bee happy with the 009?

what make the mallory vacume any better? than 205

I don't know of anyone happy with an 009, no. I ran one for several months, and had all kinds of problems with getting the car to idle consistently (idle speed would vary from 500-2000rpm), which appeared to be caused by sticking advance weights; also had troubles with getting the car to not ping in the midrange, which was probably the sub-optimal curve on the 009.

Dropped in a Mallory, and all of the problems disappeared. Idles steadily, doesn't ping, and gets much better gas mileage, too. The difference is obvious when just holding the two side-by-side. The Mallory is MUCH better made.

I thought the Jake liked the Mallory with the vacuum but he doesn't so just get a mechanical one.
I've only ever used the old style mechanical Mallory.

I don't even have a dizzy on my engine anymore.

Is there a guide anywhere on the web with some info on adding vacume ports to webber carbs?
My car dosen't run that bad.. But its the only 914 I've driven so if another distributor is going to make a world of difference I'd like to know..
I'd really like to hear from anyone else who might have any experience.. If the 009 curve is really that far off from what this engine wants?

Any one have any opinion or experience with the 205 with out vacume hooked up? I think I read a post.. some one thought the 205 with out vacume ran better than the 009?

I am thinking I am going to put FI back on this car so I really don't want commit the money on a mallory distributor until I make up my mind on the FI approach..

Yes. The 205 w/o vaccuum adv. runs better than the 009. I honestly dont beleive that you have to pick up vaccuum from all 4 ports (it would ne nice)... but for years people picked up the vacccum from a single spot at the base of some Weber and Dell carbs. They have a single port that you hook the line too. It has to be cracked open as it's default position was closed.


B

I run a 2.0 enlarged to a 2.4 a cam with Dell carbs and 09 Disy. It ran bad until I set the timing to 30 degs. BTDC @ 3400 r's. Then I added a MSD 6A. It idles at 900 and runs real well.

Hi,

Run the 205 without the vacuum. It will still work better tham the 009. I used to run 009 with webers and a MSD 6. The problem with the 009 is that the curve is so short, you have to run over 15 btdc at idle to even get near 28 btdc @3000 RPM. Run the 205, save up for a mallory. I run the one with vacuum. I'll bet Capt G doesn't have a CHT gauge. Search shop talk or Aircooled.net to see how to add a vacuum port to your webers. If they are newer ones, you may already have them.

Carlos

OK, I give what's a CHT gauge? I going to assume you mean a cyl. head temp gauge. The head temp runs 225 to 275, oil temp with an external cooler is 180 to 210 but that is around town. I ran it hard for more than 2 hours at 70 mph and the CHT went to about 310 but I think everything would get hotter if I kept it up. What should I expect for a Cyl. head Temp? I know the ambiant temp has a lot to do with it. I don't know if my advance curve has been modified or not. That might explain my results.
I do know if the distr. is worn you will back fire at high revs and the idle is real rough. I have also had a bad plug wire cause simular problems. I had a plugged jet in the carb give me problems also.
If you are thinking of a MSD you need to change your plug wires, set the dwell and timing before you install the MSD. The timing numbers I use was a result of many trials. I will admit that I don't care if the thing eats gas and I run on rich side that help keep things a little cooler.
I installed an O2 sensor in the exhaust and set the mixure to 13:1 instead of the standard 14.7:1.
I should really look into the temp issue a little more. Thanks for the tip.

Capt G

Where do you have that CHT sensor mounted? Makes a very big difference to what numbers you see. If you have it mounted around a spark plug on cylinder 3 (the hottest running cylinder, typically), then the numbers you should see are about 250-300dF while cruising, and 300-350dF when pulling a heavy load (climbing a hill). Anything over 400dF is too hot. Ambient temp can make a difference, but only because of the way the sensor works. When it's cold out, the sensor will read HOT.

Thanks for the Info.
I'm reading the Temp from #3 so it sounds like I'm doing good. If I consider the inaccuracy in the gauge and operator error it's right on. I'll never see 400 degs. New Jersey is almost as flat as Texas.


Capt G
Drive on

Today I installed the 205 w/o any vacume (yet). and it does seem to run a bit better, under accelleration seems broader... but I am not yet finished. I was only able to check the timing at idle with an adv light it shows about 43 degrees to the closest factory mark. I did not have enough free hands to hold it a 3500 and find where I was at...

my 009 had the drive gear / rotor position oriented in a different position than the 205 so It threw me at first when seting up the 205.. (in case anyone else is going to through this also).

Thanks for the help so far


UPDATE: I found out that TDC and my fan do not agree with the factory marks SO I had to make my own mark and all is fine now. timing is right on now. and the cars accelerates better, the low rpm flat spot is gone.

Hi,

Procede with caution. 43 @ idle is way to much. I would turn the motor by hand to TDC for #1 then see where the rotor is pointing. Should be about 9-10 oclock. Turn the distributor body so the notch is lined up with the rotor. should be able to get a real number from there.

I didn't have any problems timing the car with the MSD. I didn't need the tach adaptor either. At the time I ran 009 with pertronix. I dicked around with the 009, MSD and webers for 2 months in a vain attempt to pass smog. When my head starts to hurt, I throw money at the problem.

Capt_G, have to hook up sometime.

Carlos