The outboard one. I am trying to tighten it before installing the entire trailing arm back in the car. Becasue on the test fit. There is no way to access the screw to tighten it. It is too close to the side rocker panel. I was tightening it with my 1/2" gun, should I worry about over/under tightening it to the 104 ft lb ?

Any tips ??

As far as the inboard one, looks like I need to remove the heat exchangers to get my socket on it right ?

I would do it on the car. I use a 12" crescent wrench and I push on it like I'm doing a lug nut. Reheck for tightness after some miles. Then periodically check. I'd hate to remove the heat exchangers to do this. Maybe a whole new can o-worms.

I have always used a 22mm boxed wrench with the arms on the cars.

Jim

You can use a scale. Push with a force of 100 lbs on a 12" wrench, or with 50 lbs on a 24" long wrench.

--DD

You guys mean to tell me you can get a wrench on the side of the trailing arms with the alignment shims. I am talking about the 22mm screw that is holding the retainer to the T/A ??

A crows foot on the end of a torque wrench wuold do it. there is a formula for reducing the amount of torque because the crows foot is off set. check a snapon catalog for the tool.

You can reach it from the wheel well, but maybe not from below.
I wouldn't use a crescent wrench, but the appropriate metric combination wrench.
You'll probably have to use the open end though.
No need to use a torque wrench on those nuts. Just make sure they're good and tight. Its doubtful that you could overtighten one enough with a hand wrench to cause damage.

I agree with the 22mm combination wrench. Box on the outside, open on the inside.tighten it as tight as you can by hand.

Here you go, http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing...ue_wrench_1.htm

BTW, Dave is right about the 12" wrench and a scale. Just remember that the force applied to the wrench must remain perpendicular to the wrench handleand the distance between the center line of the nut and contact point of the scale must = 12"