Had crazy incident occur while buying rust free car. Replacing front wall and one headlight bucket as result(its a story for "another " time) with NOS parts.....yes Porsche porn.
So I will be removing front wall and drivers side headlight bucket by drilling out spot welds to prepare the scene
Got really special drill bit that will endure all the drilling....but surely there are some tricks to finding all the factory spot welds and dealing with removing seam sealer.
Anyone with experience in this area could be of great help as I am sure patience with knowledge will really make this a much easier project......HAve body guy to do reinstall so it is not "hacked" . Any words of wisdom from the World?
Thanks and Merry Christmas
Terry
P.S. Had to switch to laptop from Ipad to get this posted...per other post

its not that tough, once all the seam sealer is removed from the areas in question hit the weld points with a sander, the spot welds tend to be low points and show up easily.
Center punch each then drill till you break the top steel.
If youve done an effective job on the spots an air chisel does short work removing the bad section, but go lightly as there usually is a place or two (or three) that you haven't cut thoroughly and you can tear the underlying steel.

what kills seam sealer best

Cat of 9-Tails?

Click to view attachment

Seriously, HF heat guns are great at $10-$15 a piece, then a good hooked paint scraper. You can use one of the metal flay wheels on a drill to ease the process but you still need to work some heat in 1st.

Merry Xmas.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=104128&hl=

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

Here's a couple links for ya. I changed the front panel on Sandy's Ravenna car but I used a salvage nose section.

I don't drill spotwelds if I'm not saving the part I'm removing. I use a cutoff tool with a 3" disc and grind them thin. Then I use a sharpened screwdriver and split them. Once the damaged part is removed I use a grinder and clean up the leftover bump of spot weld.This leaves the original metal 99.9% intact for joining the new pieces.

Lots of ways to do it. But that's my way.

Thanks just want I needed. This weeks project once I can get back home




uote name='rick 918-S' date='Dec 24 2011, 03:11 PM' post='1594621']
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=104128&hl=

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

Here's a couple links for ya. I changed the front panel on Sandy's Ravenna car but I used a salvage nose section.

I don't drill spotwelds if I'm not saving the part I'm removing. I use a cutoff tool with a 3" disc and grind them thin. Then I use a sharpened screwdriver and split them. Once the damaged part is removed I use a grinder and clean up the leftover bump of spot weld.This leaves the original metal 99.9% intact for joining the new pieces.

Lots of ways to do it. But that's my way.
[/quote]

No matter how carefull you are with a spot weld bit, you will cut through on most of them. Ricks method leaves the underlying panel intact without any cut marks that weaken the panel

Another pro here, that's the right way to do it. I prefer the 3M 1991 discs.

Thanks for the insight............... I'm taking on a replacement project next week.

Any need to brace the trunk/fenders before removal begins ?
Haven't seen the car or the replacement panel.