Hi,
The rear trunk was converted to an electric open by a PO. Power IS getting to the button, but no pop. Is there another way to open the back trunk without making a mess of everything? I could put a picture up, but it would just be the back end of my car with no key hole which wouldn't do anyone any good.
Is there a "secret access" somewhere that will let me open it and fix the electrical problem which is obviously at the latch?
Thanks
Sean
Full Version: Rear trunk won't open-electric
have you tried having someone push down on the trunk lid while your pressing the button? are you sure its not the button that is faulty?
go in from the engine area with multiple really long socket extensions
QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 1 2012, 10:50 AM) 
have you tried having someone push down on the trunk lid while your pressing the button? are you sure its not the button that is faulty?
Yes - had someone push down, wiggle etc. . and tested button with volt/ohm meter AND direct power jump.
QUOTE(esses62 @ Jan 1 2012, 11:13 AM)
stick your head underneath the bumber see if there is a pull wire there usually right underneath the lock mechanism. thats where mine is. The electric lock is essentially a mechanical lock with electric solenoid. Or you can always use a plasma cutter to make your own access panel in the trunk floor
Hmm. . there is a little hole, but no pull wire. . is there a protrusion that the pull wire could hook onto? I could maybe rig something (I'm assuming that "open" would be "down"??
QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 1 2012, 10:56 AM)
go in from the engine area with multiple really long socket extensions
I'm not sure what good that would do? Except for losing all the extensions and the socket in the trunk--with a majority of my tools, which are locked in there now. (I figured the 60 or so times the thing worked indicated it worked. . silly me)
QUOTE(mrholland2 @ Jan 1 2012, 11:25 AM)
QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 1 2012, 10:56 AM)
go in from the engine area with multiple really long socket extensions
I'm not sure what good that would do? Except for losing all the extensions and the socket in the trunk--with a majority of my tools, which are locked in there now. (I figured the 60 or so times the thing worked indicated it worked. . silly me)
Use extensions and a 10mm socket and remove the latch. This will get you in so you can fix it.
QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Jan 1 2012, 11:26 AM)
QUOTE(mrholland2 @ Jan 1 2012, 11:25 AM)
QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 1 2012, 10:56 AM)
go in from the engine area with multiple really long socket extensions
I'm not sure what good that would do? Except for losing all the extensions and the socket in the trunk--with a majority of my tools, which are locked in there now. (I figured the 60 or so times the thing worked indicated it worked. . silly me)
Use extensions and a 10mm socket and remove the latch. This will get you in so you can fix it.
the multiple extension route is the only clean way. i've done it more than once.
good flashlight ,detach the hinges with a short 1/4 drive 13mm socket then tape your finest selection of extensions together and away ya go
QUOTE(mrholland2 @ Jan 1 2012, 11:23 AM)
QUOTE(esses62 @ Jan 1 2012, 11:13 AM)
stick your head underneath the bumber see if there is a pull wire there usually right underneath the lock mechanism. thats where mine is. The electric lock is essentially a mechanical lock with electric solenoid. Or you can always use a plasma cutter to make your own access panel in the trunk floor
Hmm. . there is a little hole, but no pull wire. . is there a protrusion that the pull wire could hook onto? I could maybe rig something (I'm assuming that "open" would be "down"??
If there is a little hole, see if you can snake some type of sturdy wire of some thing through there with a hook on it and see if you can reach over the latch mechanism and then pull down on it to unlatch.
If you keep the electric lock after you get it open be sure to add a wire from the top of the latch mechanism through the hole so it's end is bdhind the valence - not the muffler. I rigged mine up that way and have used it 3 times when for some reason the electrics failed. Edit: Be sure the wire goes straight down from where you secure it (through carpet - and pad, etc) or else it will not work. I secured a little washer on the end of the wire so I have something to grab onto.
Stainless steel welding wire doesn't rust.
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