So this started several weeks ago and now has gotten really bad. Does this indicate I need new front A-arm bushings? how tough to get old ones out?

Joe, I just replaced mine but I also had the control arms off of the car. They came off pretty easily ONLY after I heated them up...then they just popped off with a few bangs with a larger rubber hammer. I tried with no heat and they wouldn't budge...you have to heat them up until you start to smell that bad hot rubber smell.

The new ones just slid right on.

Jim

p.s. quick note, torsion bars I took off while on the car and they just slid out..to make adjusting the car easier when you bold everything back up make sure you count the number of threads showing on the height adjusting bolts before you take those off and slide the adjuster cap off. Oh, and don't drive the torsion bars back in, slide them in easily as you don't want to poke through the other side!

Hey Joe,
I too had a clunking noise on my 914 some time back,
Everytime I hit a bump ,sometimes just riding down the road.
I took the wheel of for something unrelated,and I found that my shock retaining nut on the strut had backed way off, and the shock was banging on the bottom of the nut everytime the car made the slightest movement.
I tightened the nut back down,noise went away.
Don't know if it's the same problem but ya could check it out,worth a try.

Ron

I had the same thing as Ron, clunking over bumps, or even bouncing the front end. Loose shox retainer nut.
CCLINSHOCKINGNOISE

I believe the usual cause of front end suspension clunking is the nut which holds the shock-cartridge in the strut tube. I tightened mine in an entirely barbaric way using a pipe-wrench.

It's unlikely that your A-arm bushings are the problem - since they are just a load of rubber in a tube, the failure mode is they flex too much, which doesn't have all that many consequences.

Regardless, it is not possible to replace these bushings with factory "poured rubber". Your options are either nylon-variant solid bushings (like the weltmeister ones) or Mueller's excellent roller bearing setup.

With the solid plastic bushings, there is also a great amount of debate about how to best install them. Some people believe that the best approach is to install a grease nipple, and machine a couple of grease channels around the busing prior to installation. They should be fine as long as they are installed with a good amount of grease.

Regardless - I have a set of slightly used welt bushings for sale if you want to go that route. Email me if you are interested.

Oh - as for removal of the original bushings:

1. Place A-arm in vice.

2. Open windows - start fan. This will be smelly. - make sure your work area is well ventilated. Fumes may be toxic. Your mileage may vary.

3. Heat outside piece of metal until smoke starts to appear from the rubber - begin beating outside metal peiece until it falls off. It's hot - so leave it on the floor, and don't step on it or let the dog eat it.

4. Using a sharp knife (careful) and blowtorch, you should be able to hear and pry the rubber piece off of the A-arm.

Repeat for all both ends of both A-arms.

Well that is way easier to fix than bushings. So I will certainly do this 1st. Thanks Y'all

you might also want to check the balljoints. just to be sure ...

Andy

I think I found it. Weltmiester sway bar was clunking in the bushings. Need to get new bushings but for now I used some aluminum tape to shim up the slop. nice and snug with no rattle. Didn't drive it as I had to pull tank to get them damn triangle brackets back up to start bolts. Remember this is a 70. So now I got no gas and I am whipped. Will get gas Thursday, still haven't checked valves yet. must be lazy.