Why would you not want to spray something like rhino lining on the bottom of your car?

In my case, because I don't care about the little bit of quietness it would add and I wouldn't want the extra weight. Good paint and keeping it clean is fine for keeping rust at bay.

Rhino lining and similar products create a surface that is impossible to keep clean. And once it cracks, it will hold water.

Water/moisture gets trapped between the lining and the metal and you get hidden rust that is generally way too far gone by the time you finally see it.

Toolguy's 914/6 (in the pic) is a work of art!

The 3m stuff with rubber in it has worked well on my car. It's more like paint then the Rhino stuff so I don't think it will suffer from trapping water and promoting rust, but adds a little extra protection. Yuu can buy it by the can and it actually applies well and evenly. There's a nice restoration thread currently in progress on the site somewhere showing the product and how it looks.

I agree: 3m

Not sure what it is but mine came with it and seems to be OK, time will tell I guess.

It would hide all that beautiful work you just did. I vote no under seal and just wash it now and then.

Rhino Lining belongs in truck beds and nowhere else.

Yo Doug - welcome to 914 world. Just noticed that you were somewhat local, and if that 74 is Zambezi Green with Pedrini rims, we have the same car!

One exception, mine is the popular "jackstand" edition.

Hi Bob, we're neighbors I'm in Shrewsbury behind the I83 Visitors Center. Been following your built thread, also talked to Mike and looking forward to hooking up with you guys.

Hey I just notice I'm not tag as a NEWBIE anymore. :-)

one word...Oilwax...opps thats two
Spray on oils wax are a combo of wax and oil will not let you down great in cracks and crannies where fresh new paint can't reach, doesn't crack , and repels water, moves when hot... you can reapply every so often
stay away from those hard coatings!!!
one rock chip is the entrance for the H2o..

Ohh, more PA locals!
I've not had fnd over in a while, I need to do that again!

when doing reinforcement in the rears, I used a Wurth undercoating in a couple of rattle cans. To do the entire bottom tho, would probably need a case.

Thank you for the opening comment on my car. . there is an extremely high amount of work to strip the body to bare metal. . and once you try it yourself, you'll start questioning the best way to preserve the car. . . not just for yourself, but for all the future owners of your car. . . you just don't want to have to ever do it again, but if you do, you want to be able to remover whatever you use. . . .
No matter what you do, sometime in the future, things can happen that will require another repair or maybe a restoration in another 50 years. . . it may just be time and humidity. or actually driving the car in the rain, but there is no way to completely stop the aging of metal. .

It literally took me almost a month of full time labor to hand strip my chassis, and that was just the factory undercoating and the dealer applied 'tar base' coat. . . I can't imagine how you'd ever get off something like Rhino lining, which is designed to be indestructible . . There motto is it won't crack chip or peal. . wonder what5 the say if you ask about body repair where it has been applied ??

I think whatever you use to preserve your car is sort of like gunblue to a nice rifle. . looks great and shows the rifle and protects as long as you take care of it. . .

Once I got mine to bare metal, I treated all the rust. . either sandblasted or cut it out. . . as a precaution, I used "Rust Cure" in all the seams. .[ read about it. . it's the best for any hidden rust you can't get to]. . . then I shot it with DP40 metal etching primer, and did 3 full coats while still tacky. . . that stuff is EXTREMELY DURABLE . . My opinion is there is nothing better for a base coat. . . . California outlawed shops using DP40 but private individuals can still get it. . . . but it's around $250 a gallon with hardener and it's toxic to breath. . . I used Wurth brushable seam sealer on all the seams, and then I shot it with 3M Rocker Schutz,[Green Can, and it's rubberized]. . it can be thinned with lacquer thinner and you can get a surface that is the same appearance as the factory coatings when painted. . .

There was another thread about using 'rattle cans' to paint the trunks, or step up to a Harbor Freight gun. . . . lot's of good intentions, and I don't want to step on any toes. . . but after 50 years of experience doing this stuff, I believe there is no substitute for professional products and equipment if you want it to turn out like the factory did it. . . I bought good professional Binks and DeVilbus guns back in 1980, and take care of them. . . after 30 years and lots of cars painted, they still work like new, and I can still get parts. . . . . . . . I can't see a Harbor Fright gun lasting more than a few years with the best of care and always wondering if it will spray OK every time you use it. . . . so the question is which one did the best job and was a better value in the long run.

Here's where my car is as of yesterday. . . almost done

Having once owned a Rhino linings shop, I am definatly a believer in the product. It is indestructable. As for leaking, chipping, cracking, or trapping water, I call BS.

I sprayed several car projects, firetruck running boards, truck bodies designed for hauling chemicals, etc.

The stuff is truly amazing.

The only down sides I could say is;

1. It is very heavy stuff

2. It causes suspition as to "what are you trying to hide"

One more thing,

Your car looks great!

Ha ha. That's always my first thought when I see it.

Should add that I've never seen any of the modern coatings like Rhino or LineX split or peel. I think that was more common with the old dealer applied undercoatings when they were sprayed on oily, frozen, wet or dusty surfaces that weren't well preped. I haven't seen them all, though, so correct me if I"m wrong.

When I bought my diesel dodge used, the dealer just undercoated it. Pissed me off so bad it ended up costing him $2K on the sale price as I couldn't tell what was going on under there.

Mythbusters recently proved that Rhino Lining is bombproof.

Was that part of the test they were doing to see what in the neighborhood was cannonproof?

At Joe's recommendation, we went with POR-15 on my ground-up restoration/build. It's a paint, and it is expensive (as well as requiring several hours in prep work as well as curing time - it actually cures best in relatively humid environs), but it's worth it if you have a gorgeous bare chassis like you do, and like I did.

EDIT: To the original poster, since you're in Florida, you can go see it in person (not knowing what part of FL you're in it could be a bit of a hike). My car is at Series9 in DeLand, FL check out www.914rs.com for directions and description of Joe's business.

You may be a redneck if your 914 has R___ L_____

I have had ARMOR bed liner in my truck since 1997. It has never cracked and is still flexable. The only areas of damage is where heavy items were dropped on it. I think it would make an OK under chassis coating. If it is well prepped.

Not sure I would do it, but maybe in the wheel wells...

PanelBilly used this on his Targa top and it looked great. LineX brand.

Its mine as well.
Which has not stopped me thinking about using it on my 914 from time to time.

I used the 3M stuff on my dash instead of foam and felt, and it actually worked pretty well!

dang, that's a nice rear end :-)!

one question, what paint did you use for the valance?

thanks,
dragan

Striped to metal, DP40 primer, then 3M rocker Schutz thinned with about 10% thinner for texture. . . Locally, no paint supply shops sell a simi-gloss black, but they do sell SEMA Trim Black. . . It was a little too flat right out of the can for me so I mixed 1/2 Sema and 1/2 gloss Black. . that came out to a low sheen black. .

Click to view attachment I highly recommend Wurth undercoating spray. I have used it on street cars and race cars. Results are extremely good. A little pricey, but it is a quality product.

Since my name came up

Click to view attachment

I know someone might wonder what I'm hiding, but I have enough photos to show them.
It looks even better in person and the stuff is tuff.

i used rhino lining on my targa top it looks great cleans easy and you cant tell the diff.......rhino has a cleaner special to their product

here is a close up of the "rhino" topClick to view attachment

insideClick to view attachment

I also had the targa done as well as the rockers and the fuel tank