http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=65

If they are good enough for Jake Raby, then I would say YES!.

Stu

They are the same as the one's Jake is selling?

Yeah, they're made by Manton Racing Products, same ones.
I've got them in my bus and no complaints.
The ball ends will allow you to get advertised lift on your cam over the conical stock push rod.
Jake sells a hand-fabbed adjustable pushrod that is made from the same - the ends are a bit different than the manufactured adjustable rod that you can buy. You could also buy an extra and make your own with a hacksaw, tap, and threaded rod.

I've used these on lots of motors. No problems.

Thanks guys. Got 1.7 rockers in transit, slowly gathering parts for a proper valvetrain set up. No problems with 5k miles on the stock set up, but would like to see if I can quiet down the thing. Sounds like a big sewing machine now.

thats why i dont like chromoly push rods, because they are way louder than the aluminum. and the whole zero lash thing. i like aluminum because the grow with with engine as it gets hotter. at least on a type 1 mag case. maybe type 4 is different

Louder? First I have heard this. Anyone else experience this?

I dont think they made mine any louder or quieter. It does sound much smoother with no clacking. It actually sounds a bit more like a hum or dull whine.

Yes, they're louder, but so what? It's a performance engine, isn't it? I've used them for at least twenty years (OMG, it's actually thirty years now) and they're good. Buy the adjustable pushrod from CB as well, it's cheap and the only good way to set up your pushrod length.

that was the op concern. a louder engine. and why go chromoly and have your valve clearances change with the changing temperature of the engine? notice the hotter the engine the louder the valves tick? one of our vendors sell a heavy duty cut to length tapered aluminum push rod. i cut a set of chromoly push rods and pulled them after about a week. that was only 20 years ago tho.

I've always thought mine was quieter with the chromoly, compared to the aluminum and I set them to .003 lash cold even. I've always attributed it to chromoly being far less resonant than aluminum.

Some say it's the spring spacers that cause excessive noise with chromoly which can be remedied by switching to solid rocker shaft spacers.

I personally think people's noisey engines are a result of small exhaust leaks at the head/ heaterbox junction. I have a special way of checking if they're sealed and it's a real trick even then to get it right. If you're just bolting them up and going, chances are they're leaking, from my experience, sounds just like noisey valves to me.

Yeah, I think i could have done a better job of evening out the SS heat exchangers where they meet the heads. Just one more thing to do when I drop the engine.

But dammit, just did a nice little rip in the car, and its purring. What to do?

Ours do not come from CB, we buy direct from Manton and have our own profile with them.. The wall thickness is different and so are the oil passages in the tips, as well as the radii on the balls of each tip.

We also check each of our batches for rigidity and ID.. We have gotten Mantons before that you could bend with your hands and sent them all back.. Same thing with the pushrod ID being too large allowing the tips to fall out during reciprocation.

Manton makes great products, but assuming nothing and quantifying everything is the ONLY way I roll. Nothing we sell is simply re-boxed, we use all these parts creating our engines and due to that we understand every nut, bolt and pushrod intimately.

Just because Manton makes them both, doesn't mean they are the same.