Since the drive train is out and Milt fixed the engine shelf in my '75, I'm getting ready to install new [914rubber.com] seals around the engine compartment.

The old ones were hard and brittle (what was left of them), and I had to bend the rails on the slots apart a little to get them out.

What do you guys use to lubricate new seals so they don't bind or tear when pulling them in?

Sliicone spray or soapy water

I use glycerin from the drugstore. Preserves rubber items too.

K-Y Jelly from the drug store works great; been using it for years......for AUTOMOTIVE purposes :-)

Andys

I've been using it for years also.... But not just Automotive!!

Thanks. I didn't want to introduce [soapy] water into the slots (don't want anything to start rusting in there), so glycerin or KY sounds like a pretty good way to go.

Then, it seems that glycerin, or KY, would also work for rubber [suspension] bushings? ... I'll be replacing the front bushings and installing an anti-sway bar soon as well ...

WD 40 also works well and helps displace water, much like the other things listed. WD 40 may be easier to apply though.

From the reading I have been doing, Silicone based lube is bad for rubber items, As Jeff said.. I second Glycerin or Glycol is another name for the stuff. Works great for preserving rubber also. BMW spares product called Gummi Pfledge(sp) is also a good preservative as an FYI.

I lubricated mine with simple green, which is also what I was using to clean up the engine compartment. Worked great

Stop and do NOT pass go. 914rubber.com recommends an Aero product I forgot the name of.........My bottle is at home and I'm at work. It not only cleans it protects for a long time.

Mark?? And he is the imperial potentate of 914 rubber.

OK here is the best product to use. . . It's called 'Smoothie'. . it's a painters product and is actually liquid silicon. .It's only available at profession auto painter supply stores. . . it is also a rubber preservative beside being slippy. . . it' will protec also. . . . it is absorbed into the the rubber. . . it's around $15 for 8 ounces and is clear. . . it also leaves a great sheen on the rubber. . think Armor all. .only this is good stuff. .

here's a link. . . http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...Rgl6V675XC7QXbl

I guess I'm the only one who just installs them by setting the seal in the lower lip and pushing the seal under the top lip with a flat screwdriver. I never much liked sliding seals into place unless there is no other option.

That's the way I do it.

I use a stiff plastic glazers stick or a rounded flat blade screw driver. I don't like to use anything in my shop that could eventually cause a problem with the painting process. If you come in my shop with silicone I will first beat you then get a restraining order to keep you 300 ft from my property.

I agree with all those that agree. I just installed a set of Mark's seals, and no lubricants were required. The rear seal is a little tough in the bends, but not bad. Just use a flat plastic pushing device to tuck the seal in.

The toughest part of the project was "mitering" the front corners so they would make a nice joint when the engine is in and the bottom of the seals are tucked up under the tin.

What with they all said. Put the lower lip in and I think I used a small putty knife to work the top lip in.

When I lubricate rubber parts for assembly, I use P-80 rubber lubricant. It is formulated as an assembly lube and does not damage rubber.

By the way, WD40 contains no silicone.

I also push the engine shelf seals in with a small flat blade screwdriver.

Good suggestion, I'll give that a whirl ...

Thanks for all the replies

You can put them in upside down real easily........

Then you feel like using the KY

For rubber I do use aerospace 303 protectant. it's mostly for UV exposure. I use the large flat screwdriver method for 2 reasons.
1- I think it's easier as the track usually isn't perfect and will hang up in some spots.
2- When you pull rubber through a track, you stretch it. Rubber has memory, and will want to return to it's original shape. So with vibration and time it will make the seal shorter than you cut it.

This is a real problem with the seals on the roof at the windows. Allways intall those from the outside edge and push the lip in.
Or they will be 1/8" shorter 3 weeks later and leak.

Thanks Mark. When I get done with all the mechanicals and rebuilding the suspension, I'll be starting in on the interior and replacing the remaining rubber [body] seals. I still need to locate all the stuff I already purchased from you (moved everything from 3 garages over to the new shop and not sure where it was stashed) ... I'm pretty sure I need to order some additional seals though.

P.S. I finally located the SS Allen screws for the engine tin - they really finish it up nicely

Click to view attachment

I do the same but opposite. With the car on the lift working from under the car, put them in the top channel and poke the bottom up in the lower channel with a plastic interior hootzpucker stick thing from a set of 4 from HF. Works great.

This thingy:

Click to view attachment

You'll like the ss screws even better if you have to remove them. The allen head will let you get a good grip on the screw unlike the cheaseheads that will stip out easily!

Hello,
I have a similar problem, having to replace the engine tray shelf, right side due to dreaded battery rust. So we cut/ground the old one out and before we installed the new one, went to put the rubber on and it doesn't fit. The new one has a track of .200" while the old one had a track .400". After trying to slide it on we tried to insert one lip and press the other one in. The old track wasn't a problem due to the larger width. Is there any way to insert the old seals into the new shelf?

On the same topic... I just bought the whole kit and am ready to install.

Which way does the rear seal go?
Pointing up or down.

I has been so long since I took them off, I dont remember.

Stu

I had the same problem. I had to open the channel up (very carefully) with a wide screw driver. If you do it nicely, once the seals are in place you 'll never notice.

Just think, the end of the seal attaches under the bottom lip of the sheetmetal.

Just to confirm things. I took some pictures. Don't grade my installation, I was just dry fitting the seal so I could get a cross section for the picture.

I am ASKING here. You install the front and side engine bay seals, let's call it, "upside down", correct? Like this....

Click to view attachment

Then what is the top in the picture can curl down and grab the lip of the engine tin, correct?


Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Yep.

I got the front and side seals in but the rear seal has unequal flaps. Does the short edge face up or down?
Thanks Brian

bump

Someone has had "fish eyes" show up on their paint job. Like a can of kryptonite in a painters shop.

Where did you locate the SS Allen screws, I have been looking for them as well.

Not sure there's an "up or down" for how this faces, but I think I know what you mean. The seal should end up "sandwiching" the top of the rear tin, I believe. IIRC I oriented so the shorter edge ended up to the rear of the tin (yes, pointing down). The longer edge ended up going horizontally over the top of the rear tin. Not sure if that's correct, but I probably did it that way for a reason, and it did end up making a nice seal.

Not sure if this helps, but here's a pic of the rear seal. It's actually from one of McMark's jobs (OC). Looks like longer edge may be in front (inside engine bay) while shorter edge faces backward.

http://shop.914rubber.com/Engine-screw-kit...m?categoryId=-1

Thanks, guess I just didn't see them on the site.