Clay Perrine's solution

Being discussed on the Bird board now. He's prepared to make up 50 sets of the brackets if he can find buyers. The caliper is an off-the-shelf Wilwood part.

Did a little research on this subject in June for my car as some of you remember. I never made the upgrade but I did find this solution for about $350.

http://www.renegadehybrids.com/914_files/9...914E-brake.html

They sure add to the unsprung weight, don't they.

Theres gatta be a better way

It looks pretty good to me and less work than installing shoes. It would be nice to have in case of an emergency. Will they fit over 24mm rotors.

Tell me whats wrong with putting a spacer in the caliper.

Widens the caliper so that vented rotors can fit in the rear and keeps stock ebrake.

As long as the correct hardwear is used, I think its fine.

i don't know, seems overkill. i just used the 911 rotors, calipers and handbreak setup. all bolts up to the 914 with just a bit of grinding, took me less than 1/2 hours for both arms, bolts right on, works like a charm ...

tip: use 911 handbrake cables ...

Andy

One of the problems with using the stock rear calipers is the piston area is too small. This is why, when you run big front brakes, you can use a tee instead of a prop valve. The rears have so little power in relation to the fronts that a prop valve would be fully open, anyway. To get more actual braking force at the rear, you need calipers back there with bigger pistons. Once you do THAT, you (may) need vented rotors back there to handle all of the heat that wasn't generated before, because the rears were doing so little in relation to the fronts. With stock rear calipers, you'd never need vented rotors in back.

How much does that setup run? Do you have to convert to 5-lug, too?

yepp, 5-lug it is ...

but i already had 5-lug before i went to the vented rotors in the back ...
Andy

as for money, dunno, paid like $150 for 2 like new carrera rotors and calipers and handbreak setup.
that *was* cheap tho ...

I have a set of spaced out stock calipers to work with the vented rotors
I'm gonna use 964 calipers on 3.2 rotors up front, so I fear I'll have way too much front bias with the stock rears
Think I'll do a 911 drum brake conversion so I can use bigger rear calipers

Andy, how did you change the 911 cables?
(911 cables being equal length left and right, 914's not)

cheers,

Jeroen

So, this setup is at least useful for those of us who are stubborn enough to stick with 4-bolt wheels. The new big brake 4-bolt hubs up front (once they're ready), then a better pair of calipers in back, plus these so you have a handbrake.

sure. i simply would ask myself:

if i'm already throwing that many wads of cash at my car to get "brand new" 4-lug hubs in the front with vented rotors and modified rear calipers with new vented rotors and a custom handbrake setup and a "tee" or adjusteable prop valve for the brake bias ....

why not save some couple hundred $$$ and go 5-lug instead?

Andy

Wouldn't you need to stay with 4-lug for certain racing/AX classes?

Andy, did you retain the 911 e-brake setup with your rear vented hub/rotors?

the class issues might be true, don't know the rules good enough.

yes, i got the whole crapola, carrera vented rotors, carrera calipers and carrera e-brake assembly. all bolted right on the 914 trailing arm with just a little grinding for the handbrake setup ...

Andy

Sounds like a good winter project for me, I have the 944 turbo calipers with the carrera rotors in back but the car some how doesnt feel whole without the ebrake.
I catch myself reaching down for it at times only to find it missing.

Cause I like the way 4-lug Fuchs look, and I just spent a good bit of time and effort finding a clean set and fitting new tires to them. I like that they're so light, as well.

5-lug Fuchs are also light, but now I have to spend major money buying 5-lug Fuchs (which I don't like as well, visually, as the 4-lug versions) as well as all of the other 5-lug stuff. I don't really like most of the 5-lug wheels out there. I like 5-lug Mahles, both visually and in super lightness, but they're way expensive and hard to find.

Hmmm...... He didnt answer. I think that tip was not very good. I had 911 cables when I did my conversion and I found that there is no reasonable way to use them. I needed custom cables. But, I am using original e-brake handle and Andy may have found something I didnt.......

Here is my ......

BTW, I forgot to ask why ?? Why vented rotors ?? Is it race car or just for the look or are you going to use some big four piston calipers ??

I had to use them. I could not register my 3 liter six without vented rear rotors. It is not so simple to do conversions here......

tell me about those rear sway drop links

I ask the same question:

Why do you *think* you need vented rotors in the rear ?? Until somebody shows me real live test results from them overcooking their stock rear solid rotors.... NO need. I have NEVER even seen a 914 racer use a temp probe to check rotor temp.. cant imagine ANY street car needing anything more than a solid rear rotor.

450hp/450lbft of torque STOCK Vipers had solid rear rotors with Reliant K car rear calipers on the rear.. (the car has nearly 50/50 weight distribution) granted they went to vented rears when the power went up to 500hp.

B

Good eye (again) Aaron.. Timo tell us about your drop links (in another thread).

B

they look to be hollow and adjustable....

I agree. I get my (very small) wisdom from looking at the pads on the back of mueller's 911. They are tiny. Can't see all that much heat being generated there.

SO the question is this:

How do you get your brake bias correct with the stock rear calipers?

Also; it would be awefully nice not to have to adjust them.

The reason for me to use it is for the rotor.. Not the venting itself..

It came on my setup... I like the idea.. I just need more pad (read new).. Especially with the v8...

Dunno if I need 'm

IIRC, you said to run SC or Carrera 3.2 rear calipers with the 964/944turbo fronts for a decent bias

So basically it's YOUR idea, not mine
Tell me I don't need to, and it'll save me a drum brake conversion...

On another note... anyone used a 911 (or similar) handbrake lever mounted on the center console?
I think it would be easier to do that than get custom cables
Or show me how Andy modded the 911 cables

cheers,

Jeroen

How did you accomplish this with just a little grinding? At a minimum, the 911 P-brake requires a *stay* to keep the shoes from rotating. Did you use the 911 P-brake lever with those 911 cables?

Andy

Check this thread out from last year:

911 Handbrake Conversion

I have yet to get to the 911 handbrake issue but I am close. I built the suspension last year for another tub. I decided not to use that tub but my new tub is basically ready for this.

I will use a 911 handbrake on the center tunnel as some of the factory GT rally cars had. I had the extra pieces laying around (911 e-brakes, extra handbrake mechanism).

The reason I went vented was simple. I'm using an S-Caliper up front and I wanted to balance that caliper out with the proper one the factory used on the rear which was a 911 rear m-caliper. The 911 m-caliper is set up with spacers for vented rotors. I figured it wouldn't hurt anything to have them on the car. The upside is the vented rotors for a 911 now drop right on and they're quite a bit less expensive than the one-off 914-6 solid rotor.

I too would love to know Andy's 911 cable secret... as I'm fast approaching the install. I will be going center tunnel as explained before and I'm about to weld in a couple tubes and cut for the handbrake lever. Being center mounted I might be fine with the equal length cables but...

Andy any advise?

The bearing housing only needs about 2mm ground off its outer perimeter for the 911 "hat" to fit. The bearing retainer plate is then left off and the 911 assembly bolts right on. The shield mount needs to be ground off as well.



I'm not sure the "stay" keeps the shoes from rotating (I'm sure it helps with that issue) but it does offer a point for leverage when pulling the cable. Imagine a 12:00 O'clock and a 6:00 O'clock position. The cable is a 6:00 and the stay is at 12:00. Now imagine a clam shell opening and closing. The stay being the hindge or a pivot point for the shoes to expand outward. And yes... it needs to be welded to the 911 assembly. Check my link above and the picture of Timo's assembly. That was a 5 minute job using some metal stock trimmed down to 40mm.

ok, i lied! you also need another 5 minutes to tack-weld the spacer between the shoes. forgot all about that ...

i'll post pics when i get the stuff back from the powder-coater. (hello brad )

Andy

My setup is designed to be 100% BOLT ON.. NO MACHINING OR WELDING REQUIRED if you are using calipers that use the original 3" bolt spacing. The pictures in the thread are about 4 years old. The brackets are 6061T6 1/2 thick aluminum, machined on a CNC mill. I set it up and tried to get some interest, but no one wanted it. It uses a Wilwood mechanical spot caliper. It will work with 24mm rotors by purchasing an extra spacer block for each caliper from Wilwood when you buy the caliper. What is not shown in the pictures is the rod that attaches to the caliper and links the park brake cable with the caliper.

I got a bunch of calls from a guy why tried to buy the CNC codes for making it. The next thing I know, Renegade has a similar caliper mount using a Wilwood billet spot caliper with their logo on it.


I still have the prototype set that is in the picture, and I even ran it on my wife's 914 to test it. It held better than the stock calipers. The only drawback is that the caliper has a tendency to rattle.

Turns out that I can't use it on my car, I am using 944 turbo calipers and 24mm carerra rotors, so I have to make a new mount for the caliper.


Anyway, if someone wants a set of brackets, contact me. If I get enough interest, I can run a bunch of brackets off the mill. I am NOT supplying the calipers or any hardware. Just the brackets. You have to get the bolts and spacers for the mounts.

Any specific years for the 911 backingplate / handbrake setup?
Ones from a steel 911 trailing arm (are they different from the ones used on an aluminium trailing arm)?

cheers,

Jeroen

Up to 73...

74 has different spacing and will not fit without opening up the mounting holes.

So... yes, the steel arms should net you what you want.

thanks!