we are looking for vacum leaks this weekend what sprays do we use?

carb cleaner?
ether starting spray?

we just painted everything in the engine, tin etc. will it remove the paint?

Use a propane torch (don't light it)

It will raise rpm if you find a leak and won't mess anything up.

Sumner....another new guy from Washington on the list.

I use starting fluid spray but use just a little bit as you can fill the engine compartment with it and get phoney results.

Geoff

Have you replaced all the vacuum hoses yet? Search for the chart/diagram here and then use it as a guide for the sizes. Measure all your hoses with a tape measure to get a rough estimate of how much in each size you will need. New hoses cost me $12 at my local air cooled VW shop.

I use either carb cleaner or brake cleaner with the straw in the tip.

Just a *short* burst at the hose end or gasket base will will give it up.

KT

Why are you bumping? People have given you some answers. You could do a search and find more. Have you tried any of the above. Why not ask a more specific question if you want more info?

Yep. Help us out.. tell us whether or not you have TRIED the brake cleaner/carb cleaner method.


B

We did try it with Carb cleaner, Starting fluid and even tried the Propane...No leaks...Squirted every hose connection, intake boots, intake manifold to heads, throttle body, throttle body plenum, advance/retard cannister, fuel injector retainers...

Changed all vacuum hoses with new...

No noticable change in running or RPM...

Double checked the timing, electronic ignition...Valves are freshly set, .006 & .008...

Still will not idle below 13/1400...

2-OH! & TI2OY

Then you have no vacuum leaks. Start proving the components good or bad. MPS, Fuel pressure, Injectors. Did you static set the TPS? good electrical connections all over. Temp sensors operating. Oh and if you are using the cold start system on your car is the valve shut once the engine warms up????

No more bumps just tell us what ya got. You know us we like to fix shit.

Ok, does the AAR valve close ALL the way or is it stuck open? This is the most common cause of high idle.. Try plugging the hose with your finger to see if the idle goes down.
Geoff

plug the AAR hoses and see if that works ...

when the AAR goes bad, it stays open = constant vaccum leak !

Andy

We have tried to jiggle or shake every connector in the engine compartment but none seem to have made any difference...

MPS holds a vacuum, don't know of any other test...

2 of the 4 injectors are new and the others have been cleaned and operate but the spray pattern was not checked...

Temp sensors, don't have a way to check them, the electrical connetions are tight because they don't change the RPM when we wiggle em'...

Cold start valve (AAR) does close after warmup, remove hose, and plug causes no difference...When cold, makes big difference...

I don't know what the TPS is...Can I get more definition ...

Fuel pressure has not been checked...would too much pressure cause high idle...Certainly if it was too low, we would not have high RPM...

2-OH! & TI2OY

Try here http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ttle_switch.htm
There was another article I found that had a procedure for testing every sensor and widget on the motor. Damn I can't find it but I tought it was on the PP tech article section.

Thanks Joe...We will set up this test tonight, it's one we haven't tried...

2-OH! & TI2OY

Joe:

Thanks for the TPS tip, it worked ....Well partially...We trimmed another 200 RPM off and now idle at about 1100...

I noticed this AM on the way to work, that with the lights on...the RPM still hunts about + or - 800 RPM ...With lights off, no hunt, steady as a rock (although at 1100)...

That makes me think there are electrical gremlins at work here...

Any thoughts...

2-OH! & TI2OY