Long time reader of this forum, but first time writing. My 74 2.0 needs new rear bearings and since the weather went to crap in the East I decided to look at the job this weekend and was hoping someone would fill me in on the "tricks" to getting it done. Questions concern the removal of the control arm. Looks to me as if I need to remove drive shaft, brake dics/caliper, etc. Question is, do I need to remove the three bolts holding the control arm bearing assembly to remove the control arm? Do I need to remove the heat exchanger? Figure I would ask instead of "re-inventing the wheel" before a dive into it. Any orther tricks I should know about?

If you do a search, you'll find a lot of walkthroughs. Fair warning, you're gonna hate this job.

From memory, pull the axle. The castle nut is a bear so loosten it with the car on the ground with an impact gun or a breaker bar and a long piece of pipe. If you go the breaker bar route, don't be surprised if you have to stand/jump on it. They're a pain on these old cars. Jack it up and remove the wheel, caliper, disk. Then put the castle nut on the stub backwards and start hitting it with a BFH until the axle lets go. Alternatively, you can use an air chisel with a round bit and just blast it out. The round bit will fit nicely in the divot in the end of the stub. Much easier this way. Once the axle is gone, unbolt the bearing cover and beat the old bearing out. Can be done with a blunt and fist mall from under the car or again, pull out the air chisel.

Assembly is the reverse of dissasembly. Freeze the new bearing at least over night in your freeser, it'll shrink a little that way and fit into the race easier. I've made a tool out of a couple of pipe flanges and some allthread to press them home quickly. You'll need to fashion some sort of press to get the new bearing in.

12 hours later you'll have finished one of the more challenging jobs on a teener. GOOD LUCK!

Oh, and

If you're going to remove the trailing arm:

Remove wheel, caliper, rotor and CV

Remove the rear shock bottom bolt

Remove outer 3 bolts

Remove inner 22 mm(?) nut

Your done.

Easier to change rear bearings in the car with proper homemade tools ... see threads

I have a few videos on this page if you're planning on removing the arms.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/videos.html

One of those axle pullers for the FWD crowd sure makes this job easier. I did mine in place when doing the 5 lug switch.

E. Shea's videos are dead on. Used his methods twice now.

I used MY methods for 20 years previous before I found his link

As I remember it, it is a little tricky to remove the drivers side axle with the exchanger and starter taking up space but is said to be doable. I have a SIR bearing puller tool set just for this job if you want a hand with this project.

I would not remove the trailing arm, unless you want to replace those bushings as well.

Remember to freeze your bearings a few days before doing the job.

Into this job now and I have a few questions. Driveshaft and brakes all removed and I notice that the control arm is very hard to move up and down with the shock/spring disconnected. Is this normal? What is the best method to remove the hub? Beat it out from the inside? Having alot of fun so far.

Normal with stock rubber bushings. You have 85lbft. of torque on that outer nut and something like 115lbft. on the inner one. They will be difficult to move.

You can either rent a puller or, I use an old 911 rear torsion bar (fat end) if I'm planning on pounding them out. Basically stated; "Suitable Drift" is what the factory manual calls for.

My stub axles popped right out by using a harmonic damper puller, easier than a BFH.
To get the hubs off use a socket the same size of the hub and an old 1/2 inch extension and gently hammer it out from the inside. It should come out easy.

If you are removing the control arms to replace the rubber bushings. you will need to remove the one inside 22mm nut on the suspension ear and the three bracket bolts on each arm. Don't mix up the shims as you will need to put them back in place. You will need an alignment when finished.
When removing the three bracket bolts on each side pop the caps off the top and spray some PB blaster down there for several days. Once you get the arms off you can remove the outside 22mm nut.

If you are going to have the arms blasted then leave the old bearings in place and they will protect the surfaces.

If you are going to remove the arms then just take the CV's off of the transmission and the cvs will come off with the arms and easier to remove off the vehicle.

Maybe not using the "beat it" method with the arms still in the car.

I've removed 100's of these and some just pop out and some are a bear. With the rubber of the bushings dampening every blow, it could be a chore.

If it were me, I'd spray the PB on there as recommended and take the arms off. Once everything is buttoned back up, get an alignment and be ready to enjoy spring.

Good luck with it all.

After freezing my bearings overnight, both of them slipped right in by hand.
And as stated above no need to remove the arms unless you feel the need to replace bushings. (not a horrible idea) There's a link on here somewhere showing it, big flat washers and some PVC pipe cut to fit so the whole thing acts as a press.

If you want a pick of the homemade tool and can't find it here, send me a PM and I'll snap a picture of it.

Pelican Parts has a great technical article explaining the whole process, other than when they say to beat on the parts with a big hammer.