No way to tighten the oil line correctly with it in place so I just took it apart. It was a bitch because the oil cooler flap was screwed down to the tin, so the housing would not come free. Had to reach deep inside and unscrew tiny philips blindly.

First shot is great view of Mark Henry's motor bracket. You can see how he moved the support webs below so the oil line can clear.

Second shot is CHT probe lead. I have it in the same boot with the plug wire. Hope this isn't a problem.

Really want to get this thing in the car this weekend.

dr

Dave,
Those hoses look kinda thin, what size are they?

Otherwise, v-nice. Gives me the idea that I need to drill out my mounting brackets.

They are narrow, but the pump plate and galley return ports are only 3/8". Jake says thats enough.

I tired 20 different ways to put a -10 line to the 3/8" port but there is no clearance at the pump plate because of the bracket bolts. I came up with on solution but I had about 5" of solid brass and aluminum connectors hanging off the plate, that is a recipe for leaks or breakage with all the motor vibration. So I had these crimped hose end lines made at our local hydraulic shop.

The rest of the oil system is -10 after these lines to the motor. Also, it wall make R&R the motor easier since I don't have to reach into the area between the case and the blower housing.

dr