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worn
OK, first you should know that in years past I was cheap enough to make my own gravel with a sledge hammer, so bear with me.

I have been looking at the about $1200+ price tag on the standard fender 914-6 oil tank for my 3.2 914-6 conversion. I know the sensible thing to do, but it is hard to take so here are my thoughts.

First, I like the under car fan set-up, so I don't plan to run lines all of the way to the nose. I want the trunk, and the cooling air is easiest blown down through the floor, which seems the wrong place for it. I am interested in how that Setrab fan cooler has worked out for people, but that is my idea so far.

I want the oil tank in the normal location for good gravity feed to the pump. On the other hand a filler neck is easy to obtain and the oil filter pedestal can be from Summit or Jegs and still sit in the normal place, screwed onto the fender, or it could be more conveniently located. It just wouldn't be welded into the tank. Which brings up simply welding a tank from aluminum to fit the space and then putting in lines for the oil in and out, the filler neck and vent lines. How stupid is this in real terms? My biggest concern is making perfectly clean welds to avoid getting anything into the engine. It cannot be impossible because it is done, but it may be impossible for me to do it. Half the fun for me is in the construction, and I could use the savings to justify another welder.

Thanks for any pointers.
type47
Might I suggest an aftermarket oil tank rather than re-invent the wheel. There was a group buy here about a year ago for 2 versions of the aftermarket tank. Depending on the size of your -6, you might need an oil cooler so plumbing to the front might work with a front mounted aftermarket tank (not inner fender style) and result in an "easy" set up.
bcheney
Patrick Motorsports sells an aluminum tank that mounts in the original location. Here is there product description. The price is $735

914-6 CONVERSION OIL TANK - FIT'S ALL PORSCHE 914-4 & ORIGINAL 914-6 CHASSIS - OUR IN HOUSE HAND FABRICATED RE-PRODUCTION IS A COPY OF ORIGINAL 914 6 STEEL OIL TANK - MADE OF .120 / 1/8" ALUMINUM AND TIG WELDED - THE TANK INCLUDES A 30 MM FEED AND 26 MM INPUT FITTINGS –THESE ARE A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FACTORY METAL OIL TANKS THAT, WITH AGE RUST OUT FROM THE INSIDE. WITH THIS ALUMINUM TANK THAT PROBLEM IS GONE AND THE ALUMINUM TANK WILL ALSO HELP COOL THE OIL FASTER THAN THE STOCK TANK.
*** OIL FILLER NECK, PART #PMP9146OFN , FILTER CONSOLE PART# PMP901OFC *** THESE ITEMS ARE SOLD SEPARATELY

http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/part/434/
Elliot Cannon
I got this one at http://www.rebelracingproducts.com . I don't know if they have any left but might be worth a try.
bcheney
That looks just like the Patrick tank Elliot.
Mark Henry
QUOTE(bcheney @ Jan 25 2012, 06:07 PM) *

That looks just like the Patrick tank Elliot.

A member here used to make those and Patrick just bought most of them out. I can't remember his name though.
Dave_Darling
Wasn't it Groot who made his own?

The tough parts if you DIY for the stock location:
- Fitting. Lots of trial and error to get this right.
- Baffles. The stock tank has some baffling, you need at least some.
- Fittings. You need to figure out which ones you want, the metric ones can be pricey but work with stock lines. And where the inlet and outlet are does matter for de-aeration and so on.
- Welding. No leaks, no crud that can break off a scabby weld into the tank.

I have heard rumors that most of the aftermarket tanks require a little "help" to fit nicely.

I have also seen a 911 oil tank used on a 914 with GT flares. The inner fender required some hacking to make it fit, and the particular installation I saw leaked like a sieve. That may have been due to the person who did the installation, rather than the use of the 911 tank, though.

--DD
Mark Henry
QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 25 2012, 06:21 PM) *

QUOTE(bcheney @ Jan 25 2012, 06:07 PM) *

That looks just like the Patrick tank Elliot.

A member here used to make those and Patrick just bought most of them out. I can't remember his name though.

It was member BigD9146gt (IIRC his name was Don) who made these tanks his web site is http://www.dwdesignwerks.com/oilsystem.htm but I know he was no longer making these as (IIRC) he had a job change and lost the use of the equipment.

I see he hasn't been here for half a year....hope things are OK unsure.gif
brant
it can be done

I made my own from aluminum

but its a lot of work.
and buying makes much more sense.

brant
bigkensteele
QUOTE(brant @ Jan 25 2012, 06:41 PM) *

but its a lot of work.
and buying makes much more sense.

I agree. I have the skills to build our next house and save a lot of money, but it would take me 10 years and most likely leave me divorced and in financial ruin.

Sometimes it just makes more sense to open up your wallet.

I picked up a Velios tank from the group buy. A little heavy, but nicely made. GPR can hook you up with a tank, ready to go.
jeff
Nice tank Brant!! Welding Aluminum is VERY difficult ....: The tig welder would cost you more that a few tanks....I Understand the desire to try it yourself and learn though...:-)
worn
QUOTE(jeff @ Jan 25 2012, 10:09 PM) *

Nice tank Brant!! Welding Aluminum is VERY difficult ....: The tig welder would cost you more that a few tanks....I Understand the desire to try it yourself and learn though...:-)



I really like the photos. And a very nice tank indeed Brant. To clarify:

1. I think by the time you add it all up even the Patrick tank runs well over $1,000 but so does everything else. Buying is indeed the prudent course of action that anyone with any sense would follow. That sort of leaves me an out though.

2. I wouldn't need to mitigate all of the expense of the welder to salve my conscience. Here is something you don't see every day - my wife likes me to buy tools! Additional cars is another question.

3. I would love the experience of welding a tank, but I don't want it to cost me the main bearings from debris. I note the tank runs straight to the oil pump, and a filter in suction is a bad idea. How do the pros do it? That is, other than prefilling the box with argon, is there a way of being sure it is OK?

4. It occurred to me that the oil filter could be a remote filter, but still bolt to the right place and look pretty decent, but I might want more room and put it somewhere else. I have a 911 tank, and was going to examine it for baffling design - perhaps I could in some way warp it to my cruel intent? Best probably to scavenge parts or ideas from it instead.

5. Very intrigued by the Setrab oil coolers mounted next to the tranny under the car. How well do they work over the long haul? I will not be flogging the engine, but I could be stuck in traffic.

6. Thanks folks!! Any ideas about the above would be very welcome.
Mark Henry
I can take Pics of the inside of a '71 911 tank (I think it's a '71 tank, it has the console), it's just a screen a little better than half way up. This tank is ratty and braised but the interior was surprisingly clean.
If I was to made a steel tank I'd make it two perfectly fitting clamshells with a seam like the factory, then clean all the surfaces before final welding. this would insure you got no crap on the inside. I would then coat the interior with oil immediately. as long as you changed the oil regularly I truly doubt you would ever have a rust issue inside the tank.
sixnotfour
I like the the front trunk so I put my tank in the rear trunk.
Only cut part of the trunk and now the car is a 4cyl. agian, back to stock.
jeff
This is one of many.....http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Dry-Sump-Oil-Tank-w-Earls-Earl-fittings-NO-RESERVE-1040-/110814584610?hash=item1
Series9
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/



I have one of these in the front of mine:


BigD9146gt
Sup guys!

Its funny, I was searching for pictures of Patricks tank to show a friend... things look just like the ones I used to make! Nice work Brant, it takes a long time to get aluminum welding down to an art. I made just over 100 of those tanks, at about 11ft of weld per tank... it hurts to think about.

If I was going to make these any other way, I would stamp them out of stainless like the 964/993/996/997 tanks are. Steel would be a waist of time to keep the rust out. Tooling up for the stamping would put that project in the bin unless you had access to the equipment and could compete with the alum tank costs.

Cheers, Don
DWDesignWerks
Phil Plummer
HEY i just got a 911 tank for my 914/6 conversion my mech said it is good to go but it is not as the ones from patrick or AA or Pelican but if any one out there has used this please send a photo or is there a hook up kit that you attach I mean I could modify a hook up kit as theses tanks are somewhat similar in size $ shape but location og hose fittings and oil fill neck are offset in different direction but it does look workable somehow.
I got a deal on the tank form a 911 for about 200.0 and no leaks etc-Phil
jmill
Here you go. Build your own. I was going to but in the end my time wasn't worth it.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...756&hl=tank
brant
QUOTE(Phil Plummer @ Feb 20 2012, 05:24 PM) *

HEY i just got a 911 tank for my 914/6 conversion my mech said it is good to go but it is not as the ones from patrick or AA or Pelican but if any one out there has used this please send a photo or is there a hook up kit that you attach I mean I could modify a hook up kit as theses tanks are somewhat similar in size $ shape but location og hose fittings and oil fill neck are offset in different direction but it does look workable somehow.
I got a deal on the tank form a 911 for about 200.0 and no leaks etc-Phil



the 911 tank won't fit in the stock location
people have cut large holes in the rear trunk to sink a 911 tank down into (probably loose the top storage)

people have also rigged mounts to put them in the front trunk

I'd use a roundy round, peterson tank before I'd go with a 911 tank
they don't really fit, won't work
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