Got the tranny in now. So what is the rundown for connecting the CV's?

Have new bolts, washers, gaskets.

Also got some synthetic CV grease.

Do you just pack it full of grease and bolt it up?

Should I use some kind of sealant in addition to the gaskets?

Thanks,
dr

32lb ft of torque on the bolts...

dont pack them withgrease.. the enertia of the rotating grease in a racing situation will split the boots and sling grease everywhere. Dont overload the CV's with grease (short version) I grab two fingers worth of grease from the grease tube/tub 3 times. Make sense ?

dont use sealant on the CV gaskets



B

Thanks Brad,

So two fingers 3 times, OK.

If the CV assembly looks OK, I don't have to take it apart do I.

dr

I hold the axle in one hand and try to twist the outside of the Cv with the other (checking for play)

I clean them up with (surprise) brake cleaner and wash them out thoroughly before grease goes back in. That way I can see the wear pattern of the balls on the cage. Also checks for stress cracks on the cage.


B

Don't want to beat a dead horse here but...

If I wash them out with brake cleaner, won't that make them feel kind of gritty? Always had that experience with my bicycle stuff.

dr

Dirt doesnt enter these like a bicycle bearing. The balls are MUCH MUCH bigger than a small Bicycle wheel bearing. You'll be fine. Pull the boot back off of the CV so you can see both sides of the CV. Sometimes it takes a small chisel to "persuade" the steel boot holders off the CV.


B

Very true for all kinds of rolling element bearings. Many people use way too much grease in wheel bearings, too. Rollers require very little lubrication, and much of the grease is there to trap dirt and hold it in suspension so it stays out of the rollers.

Brad,

I was cleaning my CVJs yesterday in a parts washer and the balls fell out on one side. I recovered them all. The balls, the cage and the other parts look ok. I see wear patterns but no stress cracks that I can see. Is it necessary to put the balls back in the exact same cage they were in (I'll need new ones if that's the case) or should I just grease them up and use it?

Mike

I was looking at the old threads on putting things back together and found this. Two questions: 1) Is it necessary to remove the joint from the axle when cleaning it? and 2) What is the answer to the last question about putting the bearings back in the same location from which thay came?

Thanks.

I'll add to the pot.. when rebuilding CV's what exactly are you doing besides cleaning and checking for cracks? Replacing the ball bearings (and where do you get these if you do) what about wear from the bearings? I hear rebuild CV's all the time and all I can think of is a cleaning and regrease - as long as they are not busted there now new. what gives?

QUOTE (Headrage @ Feb 21 2005, 02:30 PM)

1) Is it necessary to remove the joint from the axle when cleaning it? 2) What is the answer to the last question about putting the bearings back in the same location from which thay came?

Allan,


Question #1.
Totally dismantle the CVs including removing them from the axles. It's somewhat difficult removing really old grease from all the surfaces. Use parts cleaner - you want them to be VERY clean.

#2. The CVs are matched sets - do not mix up the sets. Plus, they will have their own special wear.

I would suggest dismanteling, cleaning and reassembling only one joint at a time, so you can refer to the other assembled one as to how it goes back together. Your Haynes manual has a good illustration for helping to understand the narrow and wide spaced grooves. It's sort of a Rubricks cube and requires a bit of body english in reassembly.

Travis: Some light wear patterns, sorta dished scoop on the inner assembly is okay. Cracks are not acceptable. If you're unsure, take your cleaned pieces to a P-tech.

On reassembly, really work the grease in - takes awhile to get it really worked into all of the inner assembly.

It's a smelly and thankless task, but nice to know you're good to go when you're finished.