Today I began the process of replacing the right rear suspension ear. I purchased my pieces from Restoration-Design. The pieces included the right engine shelf, suspension ear, battery tray and battery support.

I began by removing the center section of the engine tray. This shows the spot-welds drilled out. I used a 1/4" drill bit. Any spotw-welds that weren't completely drilled out I used a air hammer to complete the separation.

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Then I removed the front section of the engine tray. I used a disk grinder to grind down the metal edge of the tray because I couldn't get a drill in the correct position. I also cleaned up and straightend the triangle piece at the bottom.

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I removed the rear section of the engine tray next. After the engine tray was completely removed, I began with the suspension ear. I worked on the top section first. Since the ear had been previously repaired, it was difficult to determine where the spot-welds were on the bottom, therefore, I decided to remove the ear in piecemeal. This shows how I used the 3M purple wheel to identify the spot-welds. There were spots welds on the top, sides and in the middle.

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Once I drilled out the spot-welds on the top section, I used a cutting wheel to cut the ear in half. This shows the top section removed. Notice the extra plate welded on the bottom of the ear.

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This shows the top section removed. Notice the heavy rust area, which was the reason the DAPO repaired this ear his way instead of the right way.

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Here's another shot of the patched ear.

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Yep. Should be 10 factory spot welds at the top of that piece.


B

Finally, these are the tools that I used. Unfortunately in other posts, very few of them have include a list or photo of the tools used. If you get the right tools, it makes the job much easier.

This is all for this weekend, stay tuned for more progress.

BTW, I'm hoping to be able to complete this by the end of next month. But, I'll be out of town next weekend, so it will be 2 weeks from now.

Those two scab plates will take longer than the removal AND install of the ear (if you are trying for a factory look)

What measurement did you get from the firewall dimple to the center of the ear ?? In Metric.



B

21 3/8" --

Somebody convert that for me...LOL I have gone all metric. The factory Porsche race car manuels are all in metric.... so I practice..


B

Metric, we don't need no stinkn' METRIC.

This is a 'Merica home the free, land of the brave and keeper of the foot/inch...

21.375 Inches equals 542.925 Millimeters

I think you were kidding... but I get 543mm, give or take a standard paperclip thickness, which I was taught in school measures 1mm. Come to think of it, I've never put a pair of calipers on a paperclip.

So, I guess I'm close enough to the 545mm for government work?

Who da man now....

I installed mine at 545mm. I wasnt joking about the MM thing.. I measure just about everything in metric when it comes to cars.


B

Hey B, if I can get this ear replaced, it is the only thing structural wrong with this car. My intent is to finish the engine compartment, clean and upgrade the suspension and after Joe Ricard finishes my engine, put it back in the car. I still have to work on the interior and front and rear trunks, but I'll do them during short down times. This car has been on blocks since Jan 2003.

Go man Go. You have the BEST support group right here. There wont be anything on the car that we cant help you with.

Joe is building your engine ?? I didnt know Joe built engines..


B

Personal favor.

I got his 'burnt' car and we became friends. My wife and I travel to Biloxi, MS (red-neck riviera) for gambling every other month. So I always drop by Joe's place. Once he got his new teener from Washington, he volunteered to rebuild my engine, what a guy.

He's doing a standard rebuild, I can't afford a Raby engine.

Just another teener club member helping another.

Glad to hear it.


B

Just for th record "joe doesn't build engines" But I scrub them up real good. Put them back together with new parts. then I let er rip.

For the last two Sundays I've Been running my 1.7L (early) motor to red line for total of 10 runs AX and 120 miles to the track one way. Slightly over the speed limit.
HMM ya'll figure out what 4000 RPM stock trans 205/60-15 rear tires.

205/60-15 = the closest thing you can get to stock tire heigth

Comparing it to the Firebird I was traveling with he said he was running 85-90 MPH. He has to use a trailer to haul his shit. all mine fits in the trunks and one tire in passenger foot well.

Well, after hurrincanes, Frances and Ivan, and a severe ear infection (which I still have), I was able to complete the removal of the suspension ear.

Here's the 'naked' area.

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Here's a shot of the engine shelf and the ear placed in position.

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Finally, the top view. You'll notice that the engine shelf doesn't exactly fit, so I'll be 'persuading' it into position, using a SFH.

I'm planning the following:

Spray all of the new pieces and the engine compartment with a primer before I begin the welding.
Drill spot-weld holes (1/4" or 7/16") ?
I will position the ear 21 7/16" from the firewall.

Recommendation for persuading the engine shelf into place?

Any other recommendation?

Finally, here's a shot of all of the pieces removed. I cut the engine shelf in 3 pieces and the rest is the suspension ear.

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Oh, I'm enjoying this in that this is on the project list. Keep up the good work! So would you now use Ospho/Metal Ready solution, then POR-15 it, welder primer than weld it???

I love these kind of posts. Great pics

I am right where you are. Your pics looks so familiar, same color, too. That engine tray is a pain. I assume there needs trimming at the front or bending maybe. I have Osphoed all the new parts and am ready to re-align the console. I made a jig to locate the ear prior to cutting out the oud one. I will bolt on the jig and position the console according to it, should be OK. What size spot weld holes? I've seen 1/8" to 1/4" suggested.
BTW, I've had some medical problems lately that have kept me from working on it. Am better, but not 100%. We have some great weather here now so it sucks just setting and looking at the teener.
Old dad in INDY.

Well after 3 hurricanes and a sever ear infection today's the DAY, I've welded the suspension ear back in the car. But, before I show you the new piece, let me show you the preparation. After removing the old ear, in pieces, I carefully ground down any high spots, then painted everything underneath the ear with weldable primer (zinc-phosphate. The zinc-chromate is no longer available).

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I also painted the inside of the suspension ear

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Here's a shot of the suspension welded in. I drilled 3/16" spot weld holes completely around the outside (only where it will be welded). You'll need to carefully fit the ear, which could entail bending or grinding, as needed.

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What a PITA to weld the bottom section. Per Brad's recommendations, I've welded the spot welds and also the edges. I feel that the piece is attached firmly because I grabbed it and shook it, almost pulling the car off the jact stands. Anyway, this weekend I'm planning to finish the grinding, then I'll add the brace underneath.

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Rob,
Great job. I know a lot of people are watching this.

Paul

The question is will Rob's motor be done before the car is ready to recieve it. Don't know but there are some side bet going about parts delivery.

If I get the 2.0L carbed motor in my yellow car before the parts for Rob's engine get here I WIN.

Should be inplace by Sunday evening.

Here's the final installation pics of the suspension ear. This shows the reinforcing plate added. I created a paper template of the plate before I removed the original. I spent as much time creating, bending, grinding and welding on this plate as I did installing the suspension ear.

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Here's a shot of the plate from underneath the car.

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Finally, this shows the trial fitting of the engine shelf, next weekend's job, also a new thread.

Well, I hope that this will help anyone that is contemplating this job. It took me 5 weeks to complete this, but, my excuse is/was, we in central Florida had 2 major hurricanes and I personally had a sever ear infection. I think that if I hadn't had the interruptions, that this project could and can be completed in 2 weekends.

Good luck and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

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