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72914S
Just put in a new temp sensor (performance products #0 280 130 012). Engine is a 2.0 `74 . It will start but won`t stay running. I`m running it now with a jumper wire and a fader switch. Any Ideas?
72914S
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SirAndy
you're talking head-temp, right?

if i recall correct, there was a certain year/brain that required a resistor in line with the temp-sensor ...

i'm sure others will know more about this,
smile.gif Andy
nebreitling
yeah but that should just affect its performance a bit; it should still function. hell, just like he did, you should be able to just dial in some resistance to the brain and have the car run.

how long will the car run w/ the sensor?

check the TS2-->brain connection.

did you install the sensor with the washer?

if you didn't mess with anything else, it's gotta be in the harness somewhere.
Bleyseng
Is it running rich or lean? only the 73 2.0 needs the ballast resistor Andy. I suspect the FI harness is cracking.....
Geoff
72914S
I believe the engine is a `73. The mods done to the engine are 96mm flat top pistons(aris), mild cam, heavy duty springs,everything balanced,flywheel lightened by 6 lbs.and balanced.It runs great with the fader switch(A LITTLE RICH),but when I take it off and plug in the new temp(with washer)sensor it will start and die, acts like it runs out of gas. confused24.gif
redshift
And you obviously check for continuity?

I had a similar problem with a new sensor, 1st was a dud, 2nd was fine..

maybe?


M
72914S
headbang.gif I`ll do that when I get home from work today.I`m hoping it`s that simple. Thanks
SLITS
QUOTE(redshift @ Aug 31 2004, 04:34 AM)
And you obviously check for continuity?

I had a similar problem with a new sensor, 1st was a dud, 2nd was fine..

maybe?


M

Go to pbanders site and get the numbers - check the CHT against them with a VOM. It sounds like a dud - I fought the problem for a while till I gave in an changed the CHT again - ca fired right up and ran.
dmenche914
Measure the ohms between the head temp sensor and the engine ground (case) it should be maybe in the 2000 to 4000 ohm range when cold, and reduces to maybe a couple hundered ohms or so when fully hot. (these values off the top of my head, they might be a little higher or lower, but never zero ohms, or infinite ohms.)

if you get zero ohms, or an open circut, you have a problem with the sensor, some time the wire at the sensor breaks, or the insulation tears, and allow the wire to short to the sensor.

Be sure to do the ohm meter tests with the brain disconnected from the sensor. if you leave the sensor attached tot he harness when checking ohms, there is risk of harming the brain.

good luck dave
72914S
givemebeer.gif Thanks guys I`ll be in the shop trying all these ideas in a few minutes.I`ll let you know how it goes.
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