I am hoping to get some tips on where to start with my '74 2.0. As I have mentioned in a previous post, my wife bought it as a surprise so I had not planned on having this project and am kinda jumping into it. The car is in pretty good shape. The fuel injection has been removed (dammit) and it has a POS 2 brl. The compression is good but it is leaking oil on the passenger side even though the valve cover gaskets are new.

The body has some surface rust but nothing major. The bumpers are black and have a fine layer of rust on the surface. I have removed the luggage rack so the rear deck lid has 4 holes in it. Most of the rubber needs to be replaced (top, squeegees, bumper covers, etc.) The interior is in amazingly good condition. Nothing major to be done there. It has dealer installed air that actually works.

Here are a few of the things I am considering, if you can, please share with me your thoughts, both pro and con, for each:

Fiberglass front and rear bumpers
Fiberglass front and rear deck lids
Dual Weber set up
Complete set of new rubber
100 lb springs
New strut cartridges

I have already ordered new brake pads, caliper rebuild kits, and SS brake lines.

If you have suggestions for other mods or improvements, please share them.

The final plan for the car is simply a spirited weekend driver, no racing or daily commuting. (Ok, maybe a little ricer racing)

Thanks,
Mike

Carbs are not going to give you a big boost unless you get rid of the stock FI cam....they will clean up the engine compartment and look cool, however....

Fiberglass bumpers....OK if they are stock style....they are some FUGLEE wanna be 916 ones out there that I would not put on a Gremlin.

Fiberglass hoods....OK if you wanna lose weight, but they flex and crack and screw up a good paint job very easily.

The rest....no problem here.....

tell your wife you are sending the car to the body shop.

sell that car and buy the ohio bumblebee LE. she'll never know.

Interesting, so the cam is specific to the FI, any suggestions on the correct cam for the dual carb set up?

Yeah, no fake bumpers in my future, I like the FG but I want the stock look.

It involves pulling the motor and tearing it down. The cam is inside the "case" not like a Chevy.

Web Cams are my choice.....They can match the cam to the displacement of the motor and the size of the carbs you choose.

Do NOT let anyone talk you into a hydraulic cam....won't work. 914s are meant to have valves to be adjusted.

100 lb springs? for spirited driving, go for the 140's and some bilstein's in da rear. this is the setup that was recommended to me.



hmmm.. never heard that before. im running solids, so i dont know much about the hydro grinds, Care to elaborate?

i agree w/ the webcam. they are apperently da best

The stock cam does indeed work with carbs. However, it leaves a heck of a lot on the table if you don't have the limitations of the stock FI. Getting a "real" cam (like a Web 86a) will give you a lot more power.

There are hydraulic cams for the Type IV engines. Some people love 'em, some hate 'em. The haters blame them for all manner of woes in the engine, from overheating to valve-piston contact to pounded-out or dropped valve seats. Web has the bits, up to you if you want to use them. I personally would not.

--DD

If you feel you really NEED hydro cams, buy a bus and start following the G Dead.......

I also hear those cams make your hair grow REALLY long into a pony tail.....

Well, Z, if you know anyone going that route, I can make them a deal on a bong.

I brought back several from overseas...

Mike,

For all the reasons already mentioned by others, I'm not a big fan of fiberglass on a street car. If you do decide to go that route, I'd suggest that you paint the car a solid color. Matching metallics is more difficult than matching solid colors, for touch-ups or single panel repairs.

Of course, it's your car, so do what makes you happy.

-Rusty

Really?? In that case, I may be in the market for a hydro cam setup....

--DD

I've got hydros in my 72 & they work just fine. 'Course it's a gutless 1.7, so I've got no comparisons.

That looks like the same HOOKA I got in Hong Kong.
Put some Spin-yada in it and ....... see ya
bruce

Actually, I use sheesha... it's a type of flavored tobacco that's soaked in molasses. When you smoke the pipe, you cook the sheesha, rather than smoke it.

I still have a bunch - I brought LOTS back from Egypt, and had my old apprentice send another package in October.

I don't smoke cigarettes, and a regular pipe is just too heavy for me... but this is smooth and gentle.

-Rusty

The hydro cams are alittle more gutless than the solid FI cams due to the gentle ramps on the cam lobes. They are fine for low rev motors but the higher you revs them costs you some hp.
The cam lifters hate any dirt in the oil and due fail from time to time which is not good. Just one more thing to go wrong to save a little time on valve adjustments.
Geoff

Great info! I will be pulling the engine and replacing the cam. While I am at it, I'm thinking forged pistons. I would really like to make this a strong car.

FG may not be the way to go. I need a new rear deck lid regardless and I need a passenger side door. I also need those little metal body parts that are in front of the headlights. Anyone know what they are called?

They're called eyebrows. Go figure.

Not needed for any street 914, except if you're building a severely-boosted motor (as in, forced induction). But since "you can't turbo a 914", that shouldn't be an issue.

The forged pistons expand at a very different rate than the cylinders do, so they'll be noisy as hell when they're cold. They'll probably also wear a little faster when cold, but they are indeed hellaciously strong. But the strength isn't needed in anything even somewhere within shouting distance of being a street motor.

If you're willing to spend the $$, Hypereutectic pistons are fairly strong and have very similar expansion characteristics to the cylinders, I do believe. If you're willing to throw a whole butt-load of money at the motor, try looking over on http://www.lnengineering.com .

--DD

Thanks Dave. I found what looks like a pretty good deal on all the parts to put the FI back on the car. I am making arrangements to get the parts down here to God's country. I am going to try to put everything back together and get it running correctly. If it doesn't work out, I guess its back to the drawing board

Mike