I have been planning a conversion (already have the engine) but haven't started the process of buying parts yet. I haven't even pulled the 2.0L engine out of the rust free car I bought a couple of months ago. I was told by the PO that when he got the car 3 years ago it already had 9.5:1 Mahle pistons and a hotter cam by Elgine ("just about right for the street"). He then "rebuilt" the engine but failed to have the case matched and align bored which he believes is the reason for an oil leak coming from the bellhousing area. During the rebuild of the engine (which only has a couple of AX's and 1 track day) all the seals were replaced, heads were done - valve job done & cylinders honed, new rings, bearings, etc. It reportedly dynoed at 130hp before his freshen up "rebuild". He did not replace cylinders or pistons and case was not matched or align bored. I got it started before pulling the fuel cell and it sounded pretty nice, so I'm kinda thinking about just keeping it instead of doing the V8 (undecided). To keep it what would need to be done besides the align boring and resealing, and apprx how much would that cost? Would it be wise to spend the extra money on new cylinders & pistons while it's out and again what kind of money am I looking at? I would probably be going to spend atleast $3500 on conversion parts when it's all said and done..would a rebuild of the 2.0L be much less? Things that I need to consider are: a)I want AC for the street - is that a big advantage for an old V8? I want to use the car for track days and maybe racing which is probably a nod for the 2.0L c) Money for the conversion vs rebuild.
BTW, the car will primarely be a daily driver and currently has dual 44mm webers & a header. Please submit experiences and opinions - much appreciated!

Doug C

it could be that he just screwed up the installation of the rear seal during installation.......he must have have been using or had been a VW Type I guy...they "always" align bore no matter what "cause it's something you gotta do"?????....they make measuring tools for reason
it could also me a leaky rear oil passage fitting/plug

I've been in a few A/C equipped 914's..one belonged to Ed Carlson there in TX, when the A/C kicked on, you didn't feel any kind of power loss......use modern parts and you'll be happy

NO ONE, but yourself can answer your which motor question...they both have good and bad points........there is a good chance that you can just freshen up the 2.0 with just a few hundred dollars put into it if the miles are that low on it....personally, I'd keep the 2.0, sell the 44 webers and put on a nice modern FI

In any case the 2L is worth a lot more money if it's a strong running engine that a buyer can drive and test compression on so get it running. If you don't then it's just a core motor.

It runs strong just leaks oil supposedly. Well it revs strongly anyway but needs tuning, haven't actually driven because I pulled the fuel cell and sold it and am in the middle of refurbishing a stock tank and replacing the fuel pump. Once I get that stuff back on I'll do a compression test, but my feeling hearing it run was that it sounded healthy. Didn't drive it because it was backfiring and I felt the carbs needed adjusting because Idel was off. Car sat for a year and a half before I got it. BTW, it hasn't leaked any oil either in the two months that it's been sitting in my driveway.

Doug C

130 from an engine of that tune is very hard to make on a dyno....

FYI- Your insurance company may help you determine which way to go: See what that eight will do to your rate. When I called for a rate on a 914-6, it was 3x the 914-4 rate.
Good Luck either way.

Just can't compare HP ... V8 will be about 2x the 4.

Will cost about $4K to do a V8 conversion, assuming you do the labor, all parts are new and the engine runs less than $1K.

Assuming a 4 rebuild is $4K (?), the initial cost is about the same. Where the V8 takes over is in the next rebuild where you will save $3K or more ( another $4K for the 4 vs < $1K for the 8 ).

If you do decide to go V8, go to a junk yard and get a running, guaranteed 283 - should cost about $400. Do nothing to the car except convert it and get it up and running. Once running and after you have driven it a while then consider changing engines ( sell 283 for more than you paid ! ) and / or modifying body parts.

Don't make the fatal mistake of getting concerned with looks - get it up and running - then worry about cosmetics.

And don't scrimp on the cooling - common mistake # 2.

Good luck ... Ed

Jake - so you're saying that it's improbable if not impossible that my 2.0L with 9.5:1 pistons and hot Elgin cam and 44mm Webers ever ran 130hp on a dyno? I thought that was possible and somewhat believable when I was buying the car but I didn't care at the time because I was thinking V8. I know you'd be the one to ask, so tell me was I wrong to think that was possible?

Ed- I do have a SBC 283 that supposedly has around 20 miles on a (basicly) stock rebuild. Bought if from my father-in-law who didn't keep a single bit of documentation and unfortunately his mechanic has since passed away - mostly worked out of his home garage. My F-I-L says it runs really well though and I believe him. As for the cosmetics, the car looks great IMO and I won't have to do much to it. I'll post some pictures of it next week.

What modern Fule Injection could be used with the 2.0L instead of the 44 Webers?

Doug C

Why would a rebuild on a v8 be 1 quarter the price of a 914-4 rebuild?

Is it simply a matter of parts accessibility?

David

My first pro-built race engine ( 2.8L ) was $15K. My first pro-built V8 ( 327 ) was $1.3K.
When a set of 2.8L ( Mahle ) pistons costs upwards of $5K, what does a set of V8 pistons cost ???