Setting A/F and idle speed.
Who wants to help? Weber EXPERTS only.
KT
Full Version: Weber Dialing
How long does it take assuming timing and valves are good?
Setting A/F and idle speed.
Who wants to help? Weber EXPERTS only.
KT
Setting A/F and idle speed.
Who wants to help? Weber EXPERTS only.
KT
What do you have to set A/F with? If it's some narrowband toy, don't bother. If it's a wide-band unit, I might show up just to watch. 
IDFs or ICTs or a DGV or ?
IDFs or ICTs or a DGV or ?
QUOTE(lapuwali @ Sep 2 2004, 05:30 PM)
What do you have to set A/F with? If it's some narrowband toy, don't bother. If it's a wide-band unit, I might show up just to watch. :D
IDFs or ICTs or a DGV or ?
IDFs or ICTs or a DGV or ?
uh...its ida's or idt's on a six
Like I'm actually supposed to READ his sig and figure that out?
QUOTE(lapuwali @ Sep 2 2004, 05:45 PM)
Like I'm actually supposed to READ his sig and figure that out?
lol...get with the program
jk. reading helps
Assumptions: the carbs have the optimum jet and venturi package (good luck on this one), the float level in the carbs is correct, the cams are correctly timed, the valves are properly adjusted, the ignition timing is dead on, you have the proper spark plugs for your engine, the linkage is good, the fuel is good, the engine is good.
Remember that the mixture and air bypass adjustment screws are precision needle valves, not head gaskets. Use your fingers to tighten them, not your fist.
Start and warm up the engine.
Make sure the two drop links for the throttle linkage are exactly the same length, and disconnected. You can use a 8mm thin igntion wrench to snap them off.
Turn the mixture screws all the way in and then 5 half turns out.
Turn the air bypass screws all the way in.
Turn the idle speed screws out til it just touches, and then in 5 half turns.
Put on your hearing protection and start the car.
Use your STE and find the barrel that pulls the most. We'll call this one baseline.
Balance the barrel in the other carb that pulls the most with the idle speed screw. (if you have a Uni-syn, give it to someone you don't like and purchase a STE airflow meter)
Go back to the other carb, with the baseline barrel. You will have one all the way in, then use the air bypass screws and balance the other two barrels.
Go to the other carb and do the same thing.
Snug the jamb nuts on the air bypass screws.
All six barrels should pull the same amount of air at this point, if not repeat air adjustment proceedure.
Snap the throttle linkage drop links back on the carbs. If the idle changes then you need to barely adjust the linkage mounts so snapping the drop links on, doesn't change the side to side idle balance.
Use the hand throttle or a vice grip and rag to lock the linkage between 1400 and 1800 rpm.
Start back at the baseline barrel and adjust the mixture screw in or out, to get the smoothest running and highest idle, then turn it in 1/4 turn.
Do the same with the five other mixture screws.
If you have to turn the mixture screws more than two turns either way, you've got the wrong jets.
Recheck side to side and individual air balance, adjust as needed.
Road test the car.
If you get snapping and poping out the intake, it's generally a lean condition.
If you get heavy exhaust fumes, or pboofing out the exhaust it's probably too rich.
If you get a flat spot or popping out the intake at between 2800 and 3200 rpm, you probably need larger idle jets.
That's a rough, five minute draft of my carb tuning proceedure, hope it helps!
If it goes good it should take about 45 minutes, if not about three years.
PK
Remember that the mixture and air bypass adjustment screws are precision needle valves, not head gaskets. Use your fingers to tighten them, not your fist.
Start and warm up the engine.
Make sure the two drop links for the throttle linkage are exactly the same length, and disconnected. You can use a 8mm thin igntion wrench to snap them off.
Turn the mixture screws all the way in and then 5 half turns out.
Turn the air bypass screws all the way in.
Turn the idle speed screws out til it just touches, and then in 5 half turns.
Put on your hearing protection and start the car.
Use your STE and find the barrel that pulls the most. We'll call this one baseline.
Balance the barrel in the other carb that pulls the most with the idle speed screw. (if you have a Uni-syn, give it to someone you don't like and purchase a STE airflow meter)
Go back to the other carb, with the baseline barrel. You will have one all the way in, then use the air bypass screws and balance the other two barrels.
Go to the other carb and do the same thing.
Snug the jamb nuts on the air bypass screws.
All six barrels should pull the same amount of air at this point, if not repeat air adjustment proceedure.
Snap the throttle linkage drop links back on the carbs. If the idle changes then you need to barely adjust the linkage mounts so snapping the drop links on, doesn't change the side to side idle balance.
Use the hand throttle or a vice grip and rag to lock the linkage between 1400 and 1800 rpm.
Start back at the baseline barrel and adjust the mixture screw in or out, to get the smoothest running and highest idle, then turn it in 1/4 turn.
Do the same with the five other mixture screws.
If you have to turn the mixture screws more than two turns either way, you've got the wrong jets.
Recheck side to side and individual air balance, adjust as needed.
Road test the car.
If you get snapping and poping out the intake, it's generally a lean condition.
If you get heavy exhaust fumes, or pboofing out the exhaust it's probably too rich.
If you get a flat spot or popping out the intake at between 2800 and 3200 rpm, you probably need larger idle jets.
That's a rough, five minute draft of my carb tuning proceedure, hope it helps!
If it goes good it should take about 45 minutes, if not about three years.
PK
Perry, I knew you would pull through! 
KT
KT
Go to the web and look for Redline Weber Carburator they have a 4 page instruction for adjusting the carbs
Bernie
Bernie
QUOTE
(if you have a Uni-syn, give it to someone you don't like and purchase a STE airflow meter)
Amen Brother
Good overview. I do pretty much the same thing. As a linkage check, I like to set the throttle at about 3K and check the ballance again.
I swear I posted this in this thread this morning.
I got this courtesy of Carl Cilker quite a while back (pre-914club days).
Panorama Weber article
I got this courtesy of Carl Cilker quite a while back (pre-914club days).
Panorama Weber article
All of the above is good advice!!Also after you have the carbs balanced and synched and its running well...
check that you get full throttle!!
Ive seen more than once, carbs that werent fully opening on full throttle.. make sure when your foot is full down, the butterfies are fully opened..
I ordered the air flow metering sync tool and the float level vial this morning so I can " Step Up to the Plate ".
I'll be a big boy someday...I will.
Gint, thank you for the zip file you posted.
I got it this morning off my *Other* Weber thread.Weber rebuilding
It's hard to keep track, as I'm a spazz right now...OK always.
KT
I'll be a big boy someday...I will.
Gint, thank you for the zip file you posted.
I got it this morning off my *Other* Weber thread.Weber rebuilding
It's hard to keep track, as I'm a spazz right now...OK always.
KT
Yup. I found the other thread after I posted the reply and the link in this one. 
Time to call it a day.
Good luck man!
Time to call it a day.
Good luck man!
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