I'm going with a 2.5 block w/ 2.2 heads, n/a (like JRust), borla replica headers, delta reground cams, and fwd trans from 93 impreza (push clutch). I have 390cc injectors, STi head gaskets. Intake, heads, ECU, harness and from the same 2.2 car. (supposed to take the compression to 11:2:1)

I've read through countless build threads and have put together a the following list that I know is incomplete...Not all of what I have here is of necessity, but if I'm missing something important please add it because more than likely i'll left it off out of ignorance. Any help with the list is appriciated.

[ ] radiator w/ rubber mounts & shroud
[ ] fan(s) (The fan relay wired directly to the battery? what fuse? toggle switch? wired into harness?)
[ ] vented hood
[ ] overflow tank
[ ] 25 feet 1.25 inch I.D. coolant hose
-- is routing under car better than through cabin, or longs?
[ ] fiberworks IMSA front bumper

[ ] 240SX/200SX Twin LED Halo Conversion Headlight (Mike Bellis special)
[ ] H7 Low H7 High 2 Set Combo 6000K White Xenon HID Kit w/ digital ballast

[ ] 911 front suspension and brakes (will 911 steering rack bolt in as is)
[ ] 911 rear brakes and ebrakes (cable conversion kit from CFR tangerine racing)
[ ] 5 lug wheel of choice (mine happens to be phonedails 15x6's and 15x7's)
[ ] axles resplined to fit subaru www.dutchmanaxles.com

[ ] pedal assembly? will stock pedals and cables work w/ push type trans

[ ] will stock 914 fuel pump work, suby or other?
[ ] 914 ss lines through tunnel to suby fuel lines or aftermarket fuel lines under body

[ ] engine trans craddle
[ ] cable shifter ('80 MR2)
[ ] shifter linkage

[ ] guages (looking at speedhunt but will stock work?)

[ ] ehaust headers (i'm using bola replicas)
[ ] cat back for o2 plug
[ ] muffler (i'm 2.5" inlet/3.5" outlet high flow twin loop ebay -- no clue how to mount it yet)

[ ] stock ECU
wiring (I'm completely clueless here and have a ton to learn)
-- 2 o2 plugs
-- 3 for engine connection
-- fuel pump relay
-- main relay
-- ignitor
-- obd connector
-- purge and pressure switching solinoids ( 2 plugs )
-- connection to relay board
loose wires from battery :
-- power
-- ground
-- speed sensor
-- temp sensor if you go stock
-- then you need wires from the alt
connections to the alternator are as follows:
1. Large gauge white wires on ring connector (to fusible link)
2. Round black plug with three wires:
a. White wire (to fusible link)
b. Yellow wire (to fuse #16)
c. Black/red (or B/W) wire (to charge indicator on dash -- exciter current lamp on the 914 dash light)

[ ] starter -- with high compression will I need a hi torque push style?
http://www.familycar.com/store/index.php?N...No=0&Npp=10

for ignition system? I have no elfing clue

what guage steel for rust repairs?

what size steel tubing for welding in bracing?

best claps for welding?

hardware for putting together radiator shroud? & and sheet metal vs fiberglass, vs aluminum?

best brake paint, rust prevention, and body filler?

what have I missed?

I did find wiring diagrams for 93-96 imprezas -- should help some -- if you need it pm me and I'll e-mail it to you.


thanks,
chuck

Hey Chuck your list looks pretty good. The wiring is a huge deal. There are diagrams floating out there for it. My setup I was lucky enough to get basically done allready for me. Dean had already modified the wiring harness for me. You can also pay someone to do it. There are a few companies & guys out there doing it. There are plenty of Suby guys here. I would recommend NASIOC though. They are the subaru Mecca of conversions in everything. Get on there with your list too. Good luck man.

My conversion hasn't had much progress in a year. Just to many other things going on. Way to go on the project though. It will be sweet when done

[ ] will stock 914 fuel pump work, suby or other? 914 no, Suby yes , Walbro yes.

] fan(s) (The fan relay wired directly to the battery? what fuse? toggle switch? wired into harness?) To the harness (Suby ECU) ,yes

[ ] guages (looking at speedhunt but will stock work?)
Stock will work but you will need my dash. see: member vender.

Hi Chuck --

I, too, am doing a Suby conversion, but mine is still not completed. My build can be seen at Suby-engined rustoration. I like your idea of planning the project upfront, and I believe you'll massage the plan as you get deeper into the project.

You've asked a lot of questions that are answered elsewhere, so I'll try to address a couple of things that stand out to me:

1. Although there really isn't a full "consensus," most seem to be happy with running rubber hoses under the car. There are "valleys" on the bottom of the car that the lines can be run along. I followed others' suggestions of running 1" ID hose engine-to-radiator, and 1.25" ID hose for the return. Note that Suby engines are little different in that the coolant intake (where the thermostat housing & water pump is located) is on the bottom of the engine, while the output is at the top of the engine. I bought 15' of 1" and 15' of 1.25" diameter marine exhaust (with an internal spiral wire to keep the lines from expanding/contracting too much) and I have several feet left over. If memory serves, it was about $8/foot. You'll need hose reducers to match up with the coolant intake/output on the engine (and likely radiator, too, unless you go custom); I used silicone reducers available from FrozenBoost.com.

2. Ultimately, a thermostat would be best to control the fans. There are a lot of options here, but the easiest is an adjustable one that uses a probe inserted into the radiator fins. Summit Racing has a couple of options for around $125. I suppose you could wire it to a manual switch that you'd control from the driver's seat, but you'd have to keep an eye on the temp gauge.

3. Regarding 914 vs. Suby fuel pumps, it seems to me that using a modern Suby-based pump controlled by the Suby ECU would be best -- it is newer than a 914 pump, and it would be matched to the engine. You can run a hipo aftermarket pump that is controlled by the ECU (I'm using an in-tank Walbro replacement-style pump rated at 100 liters/hour that I adapted to the 914 gas tank).

4. The MR2 shifter can be horked from a first-gen MR2 (AW11 in the 'yota parlance, made from 1985-89) or second-gen (AW20 from 1990-95). Other people have used Mitsubishi, Honda and other cable-shifter based units. Obtaining the shifter itself is the easy part; assembling the correct length cables and working out the geometries for actuating the "tail-shift" Suby trans is the tough part. Mine is still not exactly where I want it, but it should let me get it running (if I ever get enough time to work on it!!!).

5. With regard to speedo set-up, pick up a Hall Effect sensor from a 1998-2002 Suby Outback. You can use it to signal the ECU (necessary to avoid limp-home mode) and to signal an electronic speedo. Uber easy to grab one of these sensors from a Pick-n-Pull (bring a 17mm stubby open-end wrench!), or a new one from Subaru is about $120. It screws in the same place that the factory Impreza speedo cable is located on the trans case. I wouldn't even attempt to adapt a mechanical Subaru speedo cable to a 914 speedo head...

6. I don't think you'll need a high-torque starter for that level of compression ratio. Either way, there aren't a lot of options regarding aftermarket starters -- I originally tried to find something that "clocked" the starter solenoid differently. Stock Suby starter is 12 o'clock, which hits the rear trunk floor. I'm running a hydraulic clutch and turbocharger; both of those units would also hit the floor, too, so I gave up on trying to find a "clockable" starter and boxed in space for the starter solenoid, clutch slave cylinder and turbo.

7. Be sure to plan for a safe and relatively easy method of installing and removing the drivetrain while you're mocking everything up. I probably installed/removed the engine/trans 20 times before everything was buttoned up...

Next up on my list of things to do is to get the car of storage and into my new house so that I can finish up the wiring. Best of luck on your project -- mine is going on nearly four (!!!) years.

Geoff

Wouldn't it be better to sensor the water temp at the radiator and use that data to turn-on/-off the fans, rather than controlling the fans at the front of the car using the engine/ECU sensors at the back of the car? I presumed it would be more accurate to cool the water where it can cool the water, not after it is heading back to the engine and recirculating once more to the radiator? Am I talking in circles here?

Your method would certainly be easier, though...

To be honest I don't recall if I am using the sensor in the radiator. I don't think so, I think I just used it to plug the hole.
There are 1000 ways to skin a cat, not sure the best.
I didn't know what I was doing when I started and am still learning as I go.
I tried to use all of the Suby harness, where I could, because it worked in the WRX.
I also used the suby fans and they run at different speeds thru the ECU. I am sure I would use different fans, if I did it again.
Seems the extra 2 gal of coolant helps keep the motor cool. I am using a small radiator and 1.25 rubber hose coming and going.
I always thought something like 30' of Al tube under the car would help cool even better?

About the harness. This may help?
Print out all of the wiring manual. Look over all of the engine manual.
http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals
Get some highlighters and highlight everything you would delete in orange. Red you can't see thru.
Everything you must have, in green.
Not sure, yellow.
Orange, I cut a lot out. Yellow, try to pull as many pins from the plugs as possible, green don't cut.
Get a sharp, sharpie and mark the number of all the plugs you also man want to mark pin 1 and the last pin.
If you remove any wires, label them as to where they go. I had some white plastic tape that worked well.
I also used red, yellow and green electrical tape to mark wires to keep.
I found a dental tool worked well to help remove wires from the plugs.
It will still be a big mess.
Good luck.

Thank you guys, the information, it is very helpful and I really appriciate it. I've read through Tony's, JRust, Britian, Sawtooth and Strawman builds probably 15 times each. Thanks for the link Ruby I will take your highlighter advice to help sort through some of the wiring. I hope I can be done in 3yrs, but we'll see.
thanks,
Chuck