As a follow up to my previous thread two weeks ago in which I asked about rear wheel bearing change out and got some good advice, I'm into the job now and have a few questions. All the brake parts and drive shaft are removed and I assume the best way to remove the hub is with BFH and beat it out from the inside? Second thing a noticed was to move the control up and down takes alot of muscle. Shock and spring are disconnected. That puppy stays right where you left it and it's tough to move. Normal?? Third item/question is the three bolts that hold the control arm. I was seeing if they would move easier if I decided to remove the control arm and to my dismay, I broke one. Hate when that happens!! Damn. Didn't touch the other two after that one. What is recommended in this situation? Drill the bolt out? Then what?

I removed my brgs with the control arm out of the car. To fix your broken bolt I would spray liberaly with a penetrating oil for several days and maybee even alternate with a map torch. When it is time to drill I would get a reverse twist drill bit. Start small working your way up in sizes. My broken bolts usually work them selves free with the reverse twist drill bits drilling in reverse.

Hope that helps

DAvid

Soak them as David says. Since those bolts are upside down, you should be able to get to the broken one after the rear suspension arm is removed. Hopefully, you have a stub where you can get a set of vice grips on it. These bolts are held in on top of the suspension attachment point by nut/nut plates welded in place. Make sure this area is liberally soaked and try taking out the two remaining bolts taking your time. If either breaks/comes out you then can remove and have problem of getting out the twisted bolts not a big problem but do take your time.

Best way for the hub removal would be some type of puller that can attach to the rear of the trailing arm without slipping and push the hub out from the rear. OR, THE BMFH which only beats items up and possibility of destroying a part/shaft. (mushrooming, etc.). Do any members around where you are located have any pullers, etc. that could be used?

Bearing removal is done by a puller or another method which I have used. The second method involves a 3/4 drive set, 3/4 stock threaded rod, washers, and nuts. Using a large socket that goes over the bearing itself and yet small enough to put pressure on the bearing hub housing (installed on the inside of the hub and you will pull the bearing into the large socket; smaller socket which will clear inside of the hub housing and matches the size of the bearing; 3/4 rod is put through both sockets with two appropriate washers and two nuts. You now have a "poorman's puller" which will remove the bearing with any possible minimu damage. Just make sure the sockets are kept centered to where the pressure is being applied; turn in side nut while holding outside. There you have it.

The snapped bolt holding the trailing arm to the body is very hard steel somewhere around a grade 12+/- hardness. If you have to drill it and easy out it, just take your time and make sure the hole you are drilling is straight.

In removing the hub, do not worry about the bearing; it is going to probably be destroyed/need replacing anyway.

Hope the foregoing helps and good luck.

Steve Hurt

see this

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...rkona&st=20